Advice on Whipple Build...Come Inside

So I am a total noobie on here, purchased (still waiting on title to register and drive it!) a 2015 GT PP M6. Here is what is purchased so far, please help me with any advice and suggestions to make this solid street machine...

-2.9L Whipple kit, 10 rib, 20% OD, couple different upper pulleys
-Fore triple hat, running my own lines/fittings/regulator, 10AN feed, 8AN return, 1300cc ID injectors, e85 fuel
-MMR OPG/CS
-RXT clutch w/Steel flywheel
-ARH headers, catless mids, solo cat back
-3.5" one piece aluminum DSS DS
-FP axles
-MT ET Street SS tires 305/35/19 (might try these on the stock 9.5" rims)
-Steeda Stop the Hop kit
-Steeda tri-ax shifter
-BG trans fluid

All the above is already ordered except the clutch, waiting for Lethal's sale on the 16th. I plan to get this baby tuned through PBD, as they have tuned around 5 of these locally and all are running great.

Please chime in, tell me what I F'd up on or what I am missing....

Wow...:hail: nice setup. I would move right to the 3.5" pulley with your combo since you have the octane covered.

Roh92cp said:

Wow...:hail: nice setup. I would move right to the 3.5" pulley with your combo since you have the octane covered.

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Yep, believe the kit I bought (used) has a 3.5, 3.3, and 3.1 (balls out as the guy called it) pulleys.

Very worried about traction and will spend my time finding the right combo to get this thing to hook, spinning aint winning. I LOVE the pp rims but foresee a weld 17" setup in my future.

20% OD and 3.5 is a pretty good test of the stock motor. The exhaust will be unbearably loud.

Stick cars need a pretty good list of suspension upgrades. On my TVS-MT82 set up I broke 2 one piece driveshafts rated at 1000+ and the bolts holding the diff. The drag radials you have listed will compound the problem. Slicks will actually help because of the sidewall. I know you are going with Steeda but I would tell you to get with Kelly at BMR and discuss it in detail.

what he said^ and change shifter to mgw

Thanks guys, I would have to drive an MGW to feel the difference, so far I do really like the feel and feedback in the Steeda shifter, of course once the power goes up maybe my opinion will change.

This is going to be mainly a street driven car, so no dig launches except at the track maybe twice a year and I have no problem rolling out of the lights and not clutch dropping it to save the driveline.

I will give BMR guys a call, see what they can offer, Steeda gear hasn't even been shipped yet.

TooSoonJunior said:

Thanks guys, I would have to drive an MGW to feel the difference, so far I do really like the feel and feedback in the Steeda shifter, of course once the power goes up maybe my opinion will change.

This is going to be mainly a street driven car, so no dig launches except at the track maybe twice a year and I have no problem rolling out of the lights and not clutch dropping it to save the driveline.

I will give BMR guys a call, see what they can offer, Steeda gear hasn't even been shipped yet.

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I agree with Reds197, with that OD crank damper and those pulleys you will be pushing the limits of safety on the stock motor.

Roh92cp said:

I agree with Reds197, with that OD crank damper and those pulleys you will be pushing the limits of safety on the stock motor.

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I am all ears...so what is generally the limit you guys are finding? What is usually the weak link? I understand the crank and rods are forged, though not the standard forged material most aftermarket setups use.

TooSoonJunior said:

I am all ears...so what is generally the limit you guys are finding? What is usually the weak link? I understand the crank and rods are forged, though not the standard forged material most aftermarket setups use.

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The limits of the motor is something that moves from one setup to another depending on how its used. Some have made 850 whp and likely more, but that's not advisable if you want to have a better chance of your motor lasting a while. The numbers I see floating around here from venders and users for a decent level of safety is 650-700 whp and up to 725. Above 725 whp I think the failure of stock parts to become more probable. The numbers I've given are not solid number, but rather a guide as this again moves around from one car to the next depending on setup and user input.

I think with your crank overdrive and the 3.5" pulley with headers you will be making somewhere around 725-750 whp.

And don't forget to do my Whipple whine modification. Go to the last couple pages for the new setup in my DIY.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43352&highlight=DIY+whipple+whine

Gotcha - from what I gathered thought most guys were hitting 700whp on 93 pump, stock lower and 3.625 upper. I would hope on e85 and the 20% OD lower to well into the 800's, but maybe I miscalculated

TooSoonJunior said:

Gotcha - from what I gathered thought most guys were hitting 700whp on 93 pump, stock lower and 3.625 upper. I would hope on e85 and the 20% OD lower to well into the 800's, but maybe I miscalculated

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With 93 on 3.625" and headers yes some are seeing 700 whp depending on dyno. You may be hitting close to 800 whp with e85 with your setup, but hard to say.

I would not run 93 octane at all with the 20% OD pulley its to much boost. The OD crank pulley adds about 4 psi over stock.

On a 20% OD and 3.75 upper on E85 I made 800+. I am am comfortable at 800 but most will say 750.

Reds197 said:

I would not run 93 octane at all with the 20% OD pulley its to much boost. The OD crank pulley adds about 4 psi over stock.

On a 20% OD and 3.75 upper on E85 I made 800+. I am am comfortable at 800 but most will say 750.

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Zero plans to run 93 with the OD setup, I have emailed Whipple for a stock size 10 rib ATI so I can start there and work my way up, just a quick shell change and belt swap to move up the OD pulley, will likely do it right on the dyno as we do the tuning.

Thanks guys been very helpful, let me know what else!

Just buy a 6 rib belt and use the stock crank pulley until you swap over.