VTT Stage 2 Twin Scroll results, FINALLY!!

Juben · Jan 1, 2017

perfweld said:
Its very easy to change the turbine housing. Obviously 1st remove the turbo from the car and get it on the bench. There is one V Band style clamp that holds the turbine housing on.

Best thing to do is take the V band clamp off first, then hold the turbo and tap on the turbine housing gently to get it go move a little bit, like .010 to .020, just enough to open a gap for penetrating oil to get between the turbine housing and the CHRA, I like PB Blaster. If you cant get any gap at all, dont worry, just spray it and it will still soak in, just make sure the clamp is off so you can spray it all around. Be generous and let it soak for a while, even overnight, it does work, the longer it soaks in, the easier it will be to get the turbine housing off.

After its soaked a bit you can hold the turbo and tap on the turbine housing with a soft hammer, a brass hammer, or even a regular hammer if your careful, It will separate pretty easily if the oil has made its way between the 2 parts. If it dosent come off easily, take your time and use more penetrating oil, be patient, and let it sit a while longer. The key when separating the Turbine housing and the CHRA is to be patient and do it slowly, watch the gap start to open up and try to keep the same gap 360 degrees around between the CHRA and the housing. What your trying to do is let not the turbine housing hit the turbine wheel when removing it, and are be very very ginger with the removal. I can get them separated with no penetrating oil, but when they come apart easier, you have less chance of damaging the turbine wheel, so use the oil.

The Turbine housing on these Turbos have a pin to locate the rotation, so when you put your new one on, just locate the pin with your eyes and slowly and carefully mate the CHRA and the housing, by hand push the parts together or lightly tap together with a soft hammer. Put your clamp back on in its same location as it came off ( you could mark that or take a picture and look back at that ) do not over tighten that clamp, lube that nut as well. Spin your turbine wheel and look at the turbine wheel and compressor wheel while spinning to make sure all is well and your confident you did a good job.

The key to remember is that these turbine wheels are very thin and lightweight, so your going slow and being careful to try to not bend it. The more patient you are with the penetrating oil soaking and separating the 2 parts, the better off, its an easy job, just take your time, and always double check your work.

That's great advice. Like Mark said, just take your time and be VERY patient. It's easy and simple to do but you want to take great caution to ensure that you don't damage the turbine wheel. They're delicate, balanced pieces that need to be handled accordingly.

I use Kano Aerokroil (penetrating oil). It's the best stuff I've ever used and you could almost pull it apart with your hands after using it. Great stuff! You should check this stuff out too, Mark. Amazon reviews of Kroil

priestblack · Jan 1, 2017

Is there a guide somewhere that explains the parts of a turbo? After reading that write up I feel a lot less confident in changing the turbo out. I assumed I just disconnected the oil/coolant lines, unbolted the downpipe, then unbolt the turbo and I'm done. I don't know anything about the turbine housing.

Are there any big turbo kits that offer instructions on removing the stock turbo?

perfweld · Jan 1, 2017

priestblack said:
Is there a guide somewhere that explains the parts of a turbo? After reading that write up I feel a lot less confident in changing the turbo out. I assumed I just disconnected the oil/coolant lines, unbolted the downpipe, then unbolt the turbo and I'm done. I don't know anything about the turbine housing.

Are there any big turbo kits that offer instructions on removing the stock turbo?

I was explaining how to remove the turbine housing off the turbo, if you have ordered a new Vargas Stage 2 turbo with the twin scroll housing, you wont have to do what ive explained. I think there are previous threads on how to change the turbo out. Installing the Vargas Stage 2 unit is very easy, its almost exactly as stock. You can change that out in 2 or 3 hours if you take your time. Ive had mine on and off in an hour trying to hurry. So look for old Vargas Stage 2 threads, people will have written instructions to do the R&R.

VargasTurboTech · Jan 2, 2017

priestblack said:
Is there a guide somewhere that explains the parts of a turbo? After reading that write up I feel a lot less confident in changing the turbo out. I assumed I just disconnected the oil/coolant lines, unbolted the downpipe, then unbolt the turbo and I'm done. I don't know anything about the turbine housing.

Are there any big turbo kits that offer instructions on removing the stock turbo?

As Mark states above if you are buying the complete turbo, you do not have to do any of those steps above, just swap the turbo in for the stock one.

priestblack · Jan 2, 2017

VargasTurboTech said:
As Mark states above if you are buying the complete turbo, you do not have to do any of those steps above, just swap the turbo in for the stock one.

Awesome! I think I can handle that. Just a couple questions if anyone can answer:
1. Was planning on draining the coolant and oil before the install, is this best or can I clamp the lines off?
2. I know I have to unbolt the intake and downpipe, how many other bolts/lines should I be expecting? (Coolant, oil, and bolts holding turbo to manifold?)

EAndre · Jan 2, 2017

priestblack said:
Awesome! I think I can handle that. Just a couple questions if anyone can answer:
1. Was planning on draining the coolant and oil before the install, is this best or can I clamp the lines off?
2. I know I have to unbolt the intake and downpipe, how many other bolts/lines should I be expecting? (Coolant, oil, and bolts holding turbo to manifold?)

Talking like this I would recommend someone help you

JonD · Jan 2, 2017

It's only a few questions that I'm sure somebody, who has swapped turbos, can answer

perfweld · Jan 2, 2017

priestblack said:
Awesome! I think I can handle that. Just a couple questions if anyone can answer:
1. Was planning on draining the coolant and oil before the install, is this best or can I clamp the lines off?
2. I know I have to unbolt the intake and downpipe, how many other bolts/lines should I be expecting? (Coolant, oil, and bolts holding turbo to manifold?)

I remove the coolant lines, the ones that go into the side of the turbo, thats one of the 1st things I do and let that drain into a drain pan, remove your radiator cap after that so it drains faster. This keeps water from draining into the oil return line, so let all the coolant drain out. Pull the intake, the charge pipe, and remove the downpipe bolts. I then remove the oil line to the turbo, and the oil drain tube at the bottom of the turbo. There is some sort of balance weight on the motor mount I remove as well, the turbo comes out easier with it off. There are a few rubber lines that go to the turbo for the wastegate, dont forget those. Lastly I take of the 4 bolts that holds the turbo onto the head. Double check that you got the oil drain tube , you can try to pull it down from underneath and separate it off the turbo, try not to bend that tube to much, dont want it to leak later. Forgive me if I forgot anything, it wont come out if I did. Take pictures if your not confident, so you can put it back the way it came apart. Take your time, look at the new turbo, its pretty much the same as the factory one, so if you look at that, you can imagine everything that bolts to it needs to be removed. If you've never done something like this before, a lot yourself extra time, take your sweet time, and have fun doing it.

priestblack · Jan 3, 2017

That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks for taking the time to type that out!

perfweld · Jan 6, 2017

priestblack said:
That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks for taking the time to type that out!

Your Welcome, you guys will all really like this Turbo with the Twin Scroll Housing. I finally had a few days I could get out and break in the new engine and do some logging. The spool is amazing on this turbo now, comparing it to the open scroll housing, its like a completely different car. We now have all the boost available we need at a low RPM, it makes for a tire incinerator though. We have another week of rain in the forecast, but I am tentatively planning on going to Tony's shop to get on the Dyno and see what kind of power this Turbo can make.

priestblack · Jan 6, 2017

Can't... freaking... wait. I got my base tune from unleashed ready to go!

perfweld · Jan 6, 2017

priestblack said:
Can't... freaking... wait. I got my base tune from unleashed ready to go!

LOL, I think the spool is almost as quick as the stock turbo, but this one moves a ton of air. If you have good fuel and run this thing up with some boost its an animal !!! I was spinning the tires getting on the freeway today at about 55 mph, it was comical, that was on the NT05Rs

paullyd210 · Jan 10, 2017

perfweld said:
I was spinning the tires getting on the freeway today at about 55 mph, it was comical, that was on the NT05Rs

nice, what suspension mods do you have on your car?

EAndre · Jan 11, 2017

Are we getting close to that shipping date?

VargasTurboTech · Jan 11, 2017

EAndre said:
Are we getting close to that shipping date?

We expect tracking in the next week. This means about 2-2.5 weeks to start shipping...:cheers: :headbang:

VTT Stage 2 Twin Scroll results, FINALLY!!

Juben

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priestblack

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perfweld

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VargasTurboTech

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priestblack

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EAndre

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JonD

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perfweld

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priestblack

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perfweld

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priestblack

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perfweld

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paullyd210

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EAndre

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VargasTurboTech

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