Whipple belt chirp

What if we had a double pulley cut for the water pump?
So two pulleys both mounted together at water pump(double stack). Then extend the SC input pulley forward and run a straight shot short belt from new forward water pump pulley.
No plate, no tensioner, no idlers...

Roh92cp said:

So is it recommended to use the longer belt with a new tensioner? I asked for a new belt with the tensioner, so I'm wondering what I'll be getting.

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You can use either per Whipple as they sent me directions showing both.

Roh92cp said:

So is it recommended to use the longer belt with a new tensioner? I asked for a new belt with the tensioner, so I'm wondering what I'll be getting.

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New belts are not required and both work. The tensioner fixes the noise on either belt and used belts are just fine.

sigintel said:

What if we had a double pulley cut for the water pump?
So two pulleys both mounted together at water pump(double stack). Then extend the SC input pulley forward and run a straight shot short belt from new forward water pump pulley.
No plate, no tensioner, no idlers...

Click to expand...

Water pump could not support the load. The diameter of the driving pulley would create massive load on the bearing.

Whipple SC said:

Water pump could not support the load. The diameter of the driving pulley would create massive load on the bearing.

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OK thinking out load here, increase the water pump bearing capacity to handle extra side load, but you would still have to significantly increase the size of the driven pulley to match the crank.

Whipple SC said:

Water pump could not support the load. The diameter of the driving pulley would create massive load on the bearing.

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OK thinking out load here! How about I ncrease the water pump bearing capacity to handle extra side load, but then you would still have to significantly increase the size of the driven pulley to match the crank.

Whipple SC said:

New belts are not required and both work. The tensioner fixes the noise on either belt and used belts are just fine.

Click to expand...

OK then if I was starting from scratch buying belt would you recommend the long or short and why? Questions...questions, they never stop man

NO MORE CHRIP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got the Whipple replacement for the belt tensioner, put on a new belt.... OMG, that is what it is suppose t sound like. for nearly a year I have had this chirp... its gone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thank you Whipple!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ETCH said:

NO MORE CHRIP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got the Whipple replacement for the belt tensioner, put on a new belt.... OMG, that is what it is suppose t sound like. for nearly a year I have had this chirp... its gone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thank you Whipple!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Never tried the old belt to see if it fixed it first, becuase sometimes a new belt does the trick for a while. Although that's a doubters attitude, need to work on that one.

Roh92cp said:

So just switching to the longer belt routing solved your misalignment issue and belt noise? or did I miss something.

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Yes switching to the old belt routing took care of the misalignment on that pulley above the tensioner and that is due to the guards on the water pump pulley controlling where the belt rides on the smooth idler. There is no squeak or squeal but I cannot confirm this as the car has no mileage on it yet time will tell I'm pretty confident that it's good.

Roh92cp said:

OK thinking out load here, increase the water pump bearing capacity to handle extra side load, but you would still have to significantly increase the size of the driven pulley to match the crank.

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Just my word of advise don't try to re invent the wheel the problem is fixed do as Whipple recommends, put the new tensioner on then decide for yourself if you want to run the short belt or the long one.

Roh92cp said:

Never tried the old belt to see if it fixed it first, becuase sometimes a new belt does the trick for a while. Although that's a doubters attitude, need to work on that one.

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I was on my third belt. there was something out of line. now its pure sex.... ive gone nearly a years with a belt chirps even when it was warmed up.... I was at wits end with it and had decided if this didn't do the trick, the whipple was coming off.... I cant be more happy... :cheers::eyebulge:

Roh92cp said:

OK then if I was starting from scratch buying belt would you recommend the long or short and why? Questions...questions, they never stop man

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I would recommend the old longer belt at this point. I've got multiple test cars with both and just waiting to get them back to review, get data and make decision on what will be best going forward. Initial results showed almost no difference, but the short belt has had a few misalignment issues in the field where the old never did.

At this point the shorter belt is better in a perfect world, less stretch is always a good thing so I I either have to be convinced we can make adjustments in idler stands and pulleys to never have misalignment issue or I have to go to longer less sensitive belt.

Note that the 10-rib never switched to the shorter belt for production, it's always been the longer 10-rib.

Just installed mine on the older belt and it immediately started making noise but slowly seemed to go away. I installed the new one so hopfully it doesn't return.

Anyone try the Dayco W profile belt or have experience with them. Its effective length is 106.5" for the 5061065.
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/belt/dayco-serpentine-belt/150433/