Rough hood paint

2016 GT, anyone else have rough feeling hood paint? I have not clayed or waxed yet. Just didn't know if it was a known problem.

clay and wax, then report back.

Final_Instrument said:

2016 GT, anyone else have rough feeling hood paint? I have not clayed or waxed yet. Just didn't know if it was a known problem.

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My hood defiantly has a rough feel to it compared to the rest of the car. Right in the middle and toward the windshield. Feels like over spray.

Was thinking of using a clay bar. But I'm a little nervous since I've not clayed before.

AZ_Ryan said:

My hood defiantly has a rough feel to it compared to the rest of the car. Right in the middle and toward the windshield. Feels like over spray.

Was thinking of using a clay bar. But I'm a little nervous since I've not clayed before.

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Great vids on YouTube, I've done it before, not that scary

My whole car felt a bit rough after it's first wash. I didn't notice the hood being rougher than the other body panels though. Just clay and wax it. Claying is easy. Just use alot of soapy water or quick detailer. Fold to a clean section if the clay starts to get dirty and throw it away if you drop it.

Thanks. I may try this weekend.

BTW my hood is "definitely" rough, not "defiantly" rough. :doh:

Any issues with claying and clear bra? My cars whole front end is done.

AZ_Ryan said:

Any issues with claying and clear bra? My cars whole front end is done.

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I don't think there should be any issues, but I would imagine it depends on the type of film you have on your car, so you may want to check with your installer. I've clayed mine (Suntek film) after talking with my installer and have had no issues. If you do clay it, make sure you try it out first on an inconspicuous area before going to work on the larger areas.

Also, I'd recommend that when you reach the edges of the clear bra, use the clay bar with strokes facing away from the edge. You don't want to catch the edge of the clear bra and possibly pull it up or leave bits of clay in the crevice.

Clay should give you a smooth surface. A handy trick to check your work is to put your hand in a plastic bag and very gently slide your hand across the paint after you've washed. The plastic bag will amplify any contaminants that are bonded to the paint.

Another suggestion is to use a product such as Ironx or TRIX to dissolve any iron/tar contaminants that are on your paint. I like to do this before I clay as it makes the process much easier.

This video has a pretty good explanation and demonstration of the process. The decontamination process starts at ~2 minutes into the video.
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You actually want to make a point in the clay and pull it along the seam in the vinyl to remove everything trapped in that edge by the adhesive.

Otherwise you'll just drag it around on your pad when you polish.

Every new car that I have ever purchased gets washed, Clay Bar on every surface, then inspected for any remaining imperfections such as hairline scratches or swirl marks which are removed prior to waxing.

You would not believe how much stuff comes off of your new car in the process. Rail dust from vehicles transported via trains, pollution from sitting on the lot, water spots, acid rain, tree sap just to name a few. Most dealers give your new vehicle a quick wash, vacuum, and tire shine then send you on your way.

Also the end result will look so much better. You would be surprised how much better your vehicle will shine and pop afterwards!