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And so begins the Air.....

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FIXR7

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TXL is cross-linked polyethlene wire. Not single strand. It's so good because the insulation doesn't want to burn or melt when subjected to heat.
In fact solder is not good in automotive circles because dissimilar metals create a virtual battery effect which actually creates corrosion.
I wish I had the compression wire welder that Ford use. They actually have no crimp and no solder...No other metals introduced into the splice. Perfect!
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TXL is cross-linked polyethlene wire. Not single strand. It's so good because the insulation doesn't want to burn or melt when subjected to heat.
In fact solder is not good in automotive circles because dissimilar metals create a virtual battery effect which actually creates corrosion.
I wish I had the compression wire welder that Ford use. They actually have no crimp and no solder...No other metals introduced into the splice. Perfect!
Sweet. Thanks for the tip! :cheers:
Sorry for the thread diversion, but I guess some of us just learned something from it. :thumbsup:
 

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That's ok peeps. I aim to help, I don't think it's a diversion.
 

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That's ok peeps. I aim to help, I don't think it's a diversion.
This thread is a real threat to the timeline of my Whipple install..:doh:
Cheers Pete.
 

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Following with real interest. In Queensland you must have an engineers certification to be legal and that costs $800 to get. If we dont get the certification insurance is voided and TMR deems the vehicle not roadworthy nor ADR compliant. The vehicle must default to at least the minimum ride height of 100mm ground clearance while the motor is running and anything lower must be locked out with no overribe option. Only once the motor is switched off can the air be fully purged. But of course you can adjust higher than legal minimum with the motor running. This lock out requirement limits us to very specific EC modules so I am told by the company I enquired with. Fully installed parts, labour and engineers cert is approx $8k. Its definitely something I am looking at doing but waiting to see if prices drop as more systems are made available.
 
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Yep this is a legal kit but, in WA you just go over the pits and get a permit. Engineers not required.
Burkey, I forgot to answer one of your questions. I've just got an Eclipse brand tool, not hydraulic.
Btw you can make a pretty good one by welding a bolt to a nut..I'll take a pic of one I made.
 

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Yep this is a legal kit but, in WA you just go over the pits and get a permit. Engineers not required.
Burkey, I forgot to answer one of your questions. I've just got an Eclipse brand tool, not hydraulic.
Definitely got my interest. Appreciate the time you spend updating us on progress :cheers:
 
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Definitely got my interest. Appreciate the time you spend updating us on progress :cheers:
No worries CasperGT,
If you look at the pic showing the ECU and VB you'll see the ECU has the AUS spec label on it. That is the difference between legal and not.
 
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RF before strut removal and I've run the harness roughly here too....

IMG_7595.jpg


Here's where the harness comes out. and a tip for convoluted tube application. If you tape up the harness at the end then bring the end of the tape out the split in the tube, you can then tape the end up and it won't run away later...

IMG_7621.jpg


Air strut fitted, it's about half the weight of the original strut...

IMG_7622.jpg


Initially this hole on the lower control arm seems ideal for the height sensor pushrod attachment however, the arm itself is ball jointed at both ends so, it can actually roll on it's axis which would result in dodgy height readings.

IMG_7623.jpg


Sorry bout the tipped over photos...they were the right side up on my pc.:frusty:
 

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Totally missed all of this...
How do you mean it can roll on it's axis and therefore change the height readings?
I don't geddit sorry. :shrug:
Edit: You mean the lower control arm... :cheers:
Understood.
 
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New tank that actually fits on the left compared to the stupid thing they supplied...

IMG_7626.jpg


Tank bracket. I fitted a nutsert to one side and a nutsert to the floor for the other because it's to close to the back of the wheel well to get at...

IMG_7648.jpg


Preliminary RHF sensor bracket. 2mm stainless....

IMG_7703.jpg
 
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G'day peeps,
Well I've got it mostly finished but I've had some problems.
On testing clearance on the front I found that spinning the front wheels while on the hoist was fine but once loaded up on the ground it was a different story. Backed the car out and the right hand clip on wheel weight clocked the adjuster nut on the front coil over. This dragged it around the rim and it was sticking out 90 degrees and because I had hard lock on it clocked the height sensor arm and snapped it!?:doh:
It's probably something that Airlift should mention but most people probably have aftermarket wheels that stick out more anyway. I blame myself for continuing to work on the car till 2.30am when I was so tired I could barely walk 8 hours before then!?
So the wheels will be rebalanced with stick on weights and I'll fit a new arm.
So at the mo, I'm running without electronic height sensing but I'm very happy with the ride and handling even though I've done no shock adjusting:D Even running at about 100mm low it has less harshness than stock!? I parked it down a side street outside a burger joint in freo and dumped all the air out and people came out of the woodwork to stare at it.
It looks wicked!

Here's the point of contact with the wheel weight...

IMG_7761.jpg
 
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3.00am at the car wash...:D

Dumped.jpg
 
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Just when I'd finished...

Ontheground.jpg
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