Doing Clutch Install - Any Advice/Tips?

Been reading a lot online and have the ford service manual, but just wanting to hear from anyone else any tips or tricks?

My biggest or foggiest areas that concern me is (1) on the interior getting the shifter all unbolted, (2) reaching all the bolts around the bell housing, (3) bleeding the clutch, and (4) getting any and all harnesses disconnected so I don't ruin anything.

I have a steeda tri-ax now and switching to MGW while the trans is out. Mantic clutch going back in.

I have ARH headers and have looked and it appears the trans will drop without hitting, but not 100% sure. If I have to pull the headers I am not doing this job lol.

Doing this in my own garage on a 4ft lift, and need to do it in one day lol.

HELP!?

Make sure u have LONG 1/2 drive extensions and a ball swivel to get the top bell housing bolts.Lower the rear of the trans and they are easier to get.Bleeding the clutch is just a matter of pumping the pedalALOT.U might have to do it by hand at first but its gojng to.take awhile to get the pedal right.Bench bleed your throw out bearing as this will cut down your bleeding time.All shifters bolts u can get from underneath with the tale shaft dropped some.Shifter boot is a pain in the ass just a small screwdriver and release the clips and pull.

Thanks a lot, the top bolts seemed to be accessible from the top, so mad at myself as I was installing the whipple they were so so easy, just sitting right there, LOL.

Service manual says to remove the front shifter bolts from inside the car, but you think accessible from underneath?

Oh and whats the best fluid to replace the stock stuff with?

Yea i did all my shifter bolts from underneath,my shifter was still attached to the trans when i dropped it,just took the bolts out that would let the shifter mover around.Im pretty sure i used dot 4 which i think is synt brake fluid,clutch and brake share same fluid.For the trans bolts just go from the tale of the trans and use long extensions just for the very top 2,rest are pretty easy.If u get alot of air in the system be prepared to pump the pedal for 30 mins,i used a hand vaccum pump and got most of the air out which made bleeding a little easier..Another tip,if u change lines to steel line,hook up to master cyl and leave the throw out bearing side off and let the fluid start dripping out the line before u hook it up.

Recommend BG fluid from OPMustang.com. Excellent stuff and is holding up to road course abuse no problem. I change it out after like 8 track hours but I don't think I actually have to, haha.

As for a recommendation on the clutch install? I helped install a clutch once and the guy said to me about 150 times... USE A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH AND MAKE SURE EVERY BOLT IS EVENLY TORQUED AND THE ASSEMBLY IS PERFECTLY ALIGNED.

Yes, he yelled it.

Alignment of the clutch disc is really important. If you can have someone help you that would be best. I applied pressure on the alignment tool in towards the engine to ensure it was perfectly aligned while someone else tightened down the pressure plate.

Pays 5hrs to install the clutch. Start Friday after work, have it done by 11pm. Spend Saturday and Sunday driving it around and breaking it in. Will see you bright and early Monday at MIR!!

When I pulled the motor, I left the shifter installed and dropped it all out the bottom still attached to the trans.