MMR Damper install

Anybody put one of these on yet? Got any tips, tricks, or puller you like?

Same here soon to be installing an ATI opcorn: a few pointers would be nice from someone that's done it.

You will need a long reach puller/installer. You may be able to rent one from a local parts store. OTC 6667 puller and Cal Van 38700 Installer

Just ordered the OTC #6667 puller and a B7 12mmx1.5Px 300mm threaded rod for install.

I did the MMR a couple months ago and it went very smooth.

1. Pull the coolant bubble tank out of the way, just remove the 2 bolts this will give you needed access to pull and install.

2. The A/C belt is stretchy and come off by hand if you carefully pry it while turning the damper by the crank bolt.

3. I used a cheap 2 prong puller I had laying around, you can hook it to 3 legs to the inside of the stock damper as it has a flat spot in 3 areas that it will grip.

4. Clean the crank snout and use a light coat of lube.

5. Put a small bead of silicone on the keyway to seal the oil.

6. Heat the new damper to 150 in oven to expand the ID.

7. I used a 6" threaded rod 12mm by 1.5 pitch nut from local hardware store and washer to install the MMR damper. I'll look up the thread pitch and repost it.

8. I used blue lock tight on the ARP damper bolt and torqued to 110.

9. Again you can work the A/c belt back on by hand as it's stretchy. Be patient and it will eventually roll into the groves as you rotate the crank bolt.

Roh92cp said:

I did the MMR a couple months ago and it went very smooth.

1. Pull the coolant bubble tank out of the way, just remove the 2 bolts this will give you needed access to pull and install.

2. I used a cheap 2 prong puller I had laying around, you can hook it to 3 legs to the inside of the stock damper as it has a flat spot in 3 areas that it will grip.

3. Clean the crank snout and use a light coat of lube.

4. Put a small bead of silicone on the keyway to seal the oil.

5. Heat the new damper to 150 in oven to

Click to expand...

I followed the same steps, bought a new crank bolt and used the old one to push in the damper in with it. the AC is a stretchy belt and 2 ppl makes it easier to take off,
For the ATI make sure to turn the bolts a couple turns at a time, (similar to putting lugs on a wheel) you will fell them getting harder to turn and then all of a sudden drop past a "lip" and the bolts should be about 1/2 way out again continue and then torque it to the recommended values.

Not sure how you guys got the crank bolt to break loose. My impact is too big to get down there without pulling the radiator. By hand it just turns the motor over.

Tugger50H said:

Not sure how you guys got the crank bolt to break loose. My impact is too big to get down there without pulling the radiator. By hand it just turns the motor over.

Click to expand...

Put the car in a higher gear. Like 4th or 5th and try again

02blackgt said:

Put the car in a higher gear. Like 4th or 5th and try again

Click to expand...

Only problem with that is I have an automatic.

What are the pros and cons of this mod, and will it have any effects on an N/A car?

Joe 5.0 said:

What are the pros and cons of this mod, and will it have any effects on an N/A car?

Click to expand...

this is majorly for those seeking more revs with like a GT350 intake to be able to have peace of mind that stuff won't break when seeing 8000RPM on the regular.

supposedly it dampens any "bad" harmonics, THUS negating the expensive install of
the harder oil pump gears etc. PLUS it is several pounds lighter, of ROTATING MASS.

b/c even FORD engineers agree that the factory "stuff" is NOT cheap metal, the vibrations
bad harmonics hurt everything more than the sheer horsepower.

With a balancer...and forced induction, I am thinking myself...5.0 coyote, especially 15-16s
should be good to 800, and live without spending the extra $1500+ for the OPG & other gear install.

Please chime in with different opinions, or arguments, b/c I am pretty sure I am going
twin "low mount" turbos in the next 6 months.

I feel this is less stressful than the blowers, or crank drive variants of superchargers.

i personally am thinking just GT350 intake + headers w/ flex fuel the supporting mods will clear you of 500hp anyway so power north of that is just for bragging, so I'll be good with just that.

Pics?

Tugger50H said:

Only problem with that is I have an automatic.

Click to expand...

screwdriver wedged where the converter spins