Best Nano Sealant

Azzurro · Jul 30, 2016

Voo Doo said:
My Black Stang has bee wet sanded and polished, so paint correction is done. Just have wax on it now..could I do the Nano Coating myself?

I would call AutoGeek and ask them. I would say maybe. I've applied Optiseal a couple of times now and there is for sure a technique to appying it. I can't say that I have it down yet but I'm sure there are others who have done it that can chime in.

When I applied Optiseal with a Optimum applicator, I still got smudges. At first you'll use too much and it will streak which is terrible. You use very little of these products but I haven't been able to apply it without smudges. I just micro fiber towel wipe and it looks great but its just the seal over the Opticoat Pro so its not like applying the base layer. I'm not sure that I would be confident enough to apply Opticoat Pro by myself.

OldDragon · Jul 30, 2016

Voo Doo said:
My Black Stang has bee wet sanded and polished, so paint correction is done. Just have wax on it now..could I do the Nano Coating myself?

I am by no means a nano expert since I just switched to them recently. There are several commercial-grade products that are only available to the "experts" where they need certification to buy/use the product. There are consumer grade versions of some of these same products that are readily available but may not tout all of the same properties as the commercial grade (usually the duration effectiveness is less).

I personally applied CQuartz to the GT350 and I am very happy with the results... but it's only been 2 months so I cannot comment on the lasting effects. I *can* comment on the shine, the ability to shed dirt, the ease of washing and drying due to the hyperbolic effect, etc. All the above seem better than traditional or synthetic waxes. The "shine" is arguable but I am a firm believer that the condition of the paint before any application is what makes the difference there.

I was a long time carnauba wax user and Zaino user previously.

Voo Doo · Jul 30, 2016

Azzurro said:
I would call AutoGeek and ask them. I would say maybe. I've applied Optiseal a couple of times now and there is for sure a technique to appying it. I can't say that I have it down yet but I'm sure there are others who have done it that can chime in.

When I applied Optiseal with a Optimum applicator, I still got smudges. At first you'll use too much and it will streak which is terrible. You use very little of these products but I haven't been able to apply it without smudges. I just micro fiber towel wipe and it looks great but its just the seal over the Opticoat Pro so its not like applying the base layer. I'm not sure that I would be confident enough to apply Opticoat Pro by myself.

So....did you o the Opticoat Pro application process yourself ?? Or are you doing just the Optiseal? Have you identified why you are getting smudges and how can you get rid of them or stop them in the first place??

Patrick....any thoughts or ideas as to what's going on here? Thanx.

It seems every time I get close to pulling the trigger and doing it myself.... I see posts like this. "???

Stage_3 · Jul 30, 2016

OldDragon said:
I personally applied CQuartz to the GT350 and I am very happy with the results... but it's only been 2 months so I cannot comment on the lasting effects. I *can* comment on the shine, the ability to shed dirt, the ease of washing and drying due to the hyperbolic effect, etc. All the above seem better than traditional or synthetic waxes. The "shine" is arguable but I am a firm believer that the condition of the paint before any application is what makes the difference there.

I had 2 coats of Cquartz Finest applied to the full exterior my truck and all I can say is WOW!! So worth the money. It costs a lot, but you get what you pay for! 2 year guarantee as well.
Dynamite shine and waters sheds off like crazy as well. Definitely use the RELOAD every other wash or so. Helps maintain the properties of the Cquartz. :thumbsup:

Azzurro · Jul 30, 2016

Voo Doo said:
So....did you o the Opticoat Pro application process yourself ?? Or are you doing just the Optiseal? Have you identified why you are getting smudges and how can you get rid of them or stop them in the first place??

Patrick....any thoughts or ideas as to what's going on here? Thanx.

It seems every time I get close to pulling the trigger and doing it myself.... I see posts like this. "???

Voo Doo.. Why not try it yourself? Next time I'm going to try. I'm sure Auto Geek can answer some questions. Worst thing that happens is you buff it all out and start all over.

I don't know why the Optiseal smudges. Maybe its because its going over Opticoat Pro. It does smudge but the I just wipe with microfiber towel and its all gone. I didn't apply the original Opticoat Pro but I'm going to try next time.

Give it a shot and report back. There are lots of vieos on Youtube so why not try it?

OldDragon · Jul 30, 2016

Stage_3 said:
I had 2 coats of Cquartz Finest applied to the full exterior my truck and all I can say is WOW!! So worth the money. It costs a lot, but you get what you pay for! 2 year guarantee as well.
Dynamite shine and waters sheds off like crazy as well. Definitely use the RELOAD every other wash or so. Helps maintain the properties of the Cquartz.

Awesome! I'm happy to hear more praise for the CQuartz products since I am so new to them.

I love tinkering with detailing so decided to try the CQuartz myself. I put it everywhere including the rims. I can almost dry the car after a wash by merely bubbling water over it. It's amazing how little water remains on the car.

I wash with the Reset, I spot clean with the Eraser between washes, and I have used the Reload once so far (I've only washed the car twice since I CQuartz'ed it).

So far, so good!

Stage_3 · Jul 30, 2016

OldDragon said:
Awesome! I'm happy to hear more praise for the CQuartz products since I am so new to them.
I love tinkering with detailing so decided to try the CQuartz myself. I put it everywhere including the rims. I can almost dry the car after a wash by merely bubbling water over it. It's amazing how little water remains on the car.
I wash with the Reset, I spot clean with the Eraser between washes, and I have used the Reload once so far (I've only washed the car twice since I CQuartz'ed it).
So far, so good!

That's awesome. The Reload stuff is amazing. My truck is my daily driver, so I see how awesome the waters beads, collects into multiple sheets of water and just roll off. :eyebulge:
I had the whole exterior of my truck done with 2 applications. I dropped the truck off at 8 am and it wasn't ready till 6 pm. I had a detailer do it as with the Cquartz Finest, you have to be a certified and licensed detail shop to use and apply Cquartz Finest. We couldn't buy it even if we wanted to! lol

PatrickGT · Jul 30, 2016

Voo Doo said:
So....did you o the Opticoat Pro application process yourself ?? Or are you doing just the Optiseal? Have you identified why you are getting smudges and how can you get rid of them or stop them in the first place??

Patrick....any thoughts or ideas as to what's going on here? Thanx.

It seems every time I get close to pulling the trigger and doing it myself.... I see posts like this. "???

I actually stopped using the Optimum product because 22PLE was so much easier to apply, then I switched to cquartz after trying it since it's half the price of 22PLE and every bit as good.

There are a couple of things that are possibly going on here which can contribute to hazing:

1. Applying too much product. It should barely go on the car, in straight overlapping lines, by section and then be buffed as per instructions which can vary based on weather conditions, which brings me to...

2. Too much humidity. You need dry panels, no moisture on the surface or on the applicator because it simply can't cure with moisture present so it is also best to do on a lower humidity day, easy for us in the desert.

3. Surface prep. You will absolutely get a streaky finish if you have polish residues on your paint. Chemical coatings don't mix well with the oils in a polish so this is why the isopropyl alcohol wipe down is critical.

4. Finally, and sometimes the hardest to accept, is streaking is part of the curing process. It just kind of does this, and it will be fine. Remember in my other post where I sword you'll finish everything and think it kind of looks like shit? This is that point, some streaks and a distorted surface are perfectly normal before it cures since it levels itself as it cures. If you're sure you did all prep right, didn't use too much, and it isn't super humid then you just need to wait 1-5 days for it to fully cure. If you still have streaked areas, use the product to remove itself (apply over streaked area, remove quickly with cloth while still wet, reapply) and possibly the spot treating will work.

For what it's worth, I've never had more than a small area do this AFTER curing for several days (damn antenna seal on a VW held water right up until I needed it to keep doing so the most) in all of my applications so sometimes you just need to wait it out... As long as you're sure you did everything right and didn't use too much.

Voo Doo · Jul 30, 2016

PatrickGT said:
I actually stopped using the Optimum product because 22PLE was so much easier to apply, then I switched to cquartz after trying it since it's half the price of 22PLE and every bit as good.

There are a couple of things that are possibly going on here which can contribute to hazing:

1. Applying too much product. It should barely go on the car, in straight overlapping lines, by section and then be buffed as per instructions which can vary based on weather conditions, which brings me to...

2. Too much humidity. You need dry panels, no moisture on the surface or on the applicator because it simply can't cure with moisture present so it is also best to do on a lower humidity day, easy for us in the desert.

3. Surface prep. You will absolutely get a streaky finish if you have polish residues on your paint. Chemical coatings don't mix well with the oils in a polish so this is why the isopropyl alcohol wipe down is critical.

4. Finally, and sometimes the hardest to accept, is streaking is part of the curing process. It just kind of does this, and it will be fine. Remember in my other post where I sword you'll finish everything and think it kind of looks like shit?
This is that point, some streaks and a distorted surface are perfectly normal before it cures since it levels itself as it cures. If you're sure you did all prep right, didn't use too much, and it isn't super humid then you just need to wait 1-5 days for it to fully cure. If you still have streaked areas, use the product to remove itself (apply over streaked area, remove quickly with cloth while still wet, reapply) and possibly the spot treating will work.

For what it's worth, I've never had more than a small area do this AFTER curing for several days (damn antenna seal on a VW held water right up until I needed it to keep doing so the most) in all of my applications so sometimes you just need to wait it out... As long as you're sure you did everything right and didn't use too much.

Good info Patrick what product do you use and where did you buy it ?? I'm ready. My 1sr Mustang show is Monday ( a holiday here) so I've been detailing and shining it up with just the Flash product. It looks awesome after the wet sand/polish.....I know it will look better once I get it CQuartz-Ed tell me the process again. Chemical guys wash?? Then ?? Thanx Patrick.

PatrickGT · Jul 31, 2016

I think your paint is already polished so wash it with something citrus based or dawn to remove the existing sealant. As long as your surface is prepped by polish and decontamination (iron X, clay or clay substitute) just make sure it is very dry and do a wipe down with a spray bottle mixed 50:50 with isopropyl alcohol (70% or higher) and distilled water. Use it like a quick detailed product to remove any oils and then start costing. Small sections, straight lines, only a dot or two of solution once you have the pad primed.

If I recall correctly your car is black witch actually makes application easier. Get at a good angle over the surfaces so you can see the product being applied to the paint, with black you can really see what you're doing and it will give you the feedback to know how much product to use.

I use the CQuartz UK edition because I like it best for dust repelling and protection on the desert, though oddly it was made for a climate more like yours in British Columbia so it will work great. I buy mine and most of my detailing products from detailed image, but I think you can get it on amazon as well. 30ml is enough to do your whole car and do use thier specific applicators.

Check out the post I made on the other thread for more detailed instructions and remember to maintain the finish for a good couple years the two bucket wash method is your best bet.

PatrickGT · Jul 31, 2016

Also make damn sure any swirls, scratches, blemishes that you want polished out are gone before you apply your coating because if they aren't you won't be getting to them any time soon.

Voo Doo · Jul 31, 2016

PatrickGT said:
Also make damn sure any swirls, scratches, blemishes that you want polished out are gone before you apply your coating because if they aren't you won't be getting to them any time soon.

I spent the day detailing and having a really good look yesterday. I did notice 3 or 4 areas that need to pe polished a tad more. Look dull or unpolished in the lights zero scratches.

So, wash, clay dry isopropyl alcohol 50/50. Make sure it's completely dry right? What is "and then start costing" ? I'll check your other post and buy some product. Probably get at it sometime in August. Have a couple of local Rod trips planned so may before I have to De-bug the car! lol

Can't thank you enough. This thread has been very helpful to me. :cheers:

Stage_3 · Jul 31, 2016

PatrickGT said:
Also make damn sure any swirls, scratches, blemishes that you want polished out are gone before you apply your coating because if they aren't you won't be getting to them any time soon.

All the prep work, ie., getting the oils out of the paint, color correction and so on, were done by my detailer before applying the Cquartz Finest.

Voo Doo · Jul 31, 2016

With all the prep work done......the local licenced CQuartz detailed just quoted me $1400 !! WTAF ?? will order the CQuartz UK product and do it myself.

Stage3 what was your total cos..paint correction and application?? Thanx, just curious.:cheers:

PonyGrrrl · Jul 31, 2016

Voo Doo said:
With all the prep work done......the local licenced CQuartz detailed just quoted me $1400 !! WTAF ?? will order the CQuartz UK product and do it myself.

Stage3 what was your total cos..paint correction and application?? Thanx, just curious.:cheers:

Wow! Autogeek is having a 15% off store wide sale and they have great package deals on everything you need to do CQuartz yourself and to maintain it.

Best Nano Sealant

Azzurro

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OldDragon

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Voo Doo

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Stage_3

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Azzurro

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OldDragon

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Stage_3

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PatrickGT

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Voo Doo

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PatrickGT

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PatrickGT

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Voo Doo

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Stage_3

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Voo Doo

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PonyGrrrl

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