Ford Performance Knuckle to to Toe Link Bearing

Rustang · Apr 22, 2017

I used an impact with the press :ninja:

Bartly · Apr 22, 2017

jbailer said:
Just as easy? Dayum! That was anything but easy! If anyone used their own ball joint press, would you tell me how big the opening is on the c clamp? I'm wondering if maybe there's one with a larger opening. The one I'm using has a 6.25" inner opening.

I did finally figure out a way to get the new bushing pressed in. One side done. :clap2:

[MENTION=19360]Bartly[/MENTION] that tip you gave about hitting it with a hammer helped a ton! I wrenched it until it became very difficult to turn, then hit the end of the clamp with a 2 lb sledge a few times and it made it so I could turn the wrench a bit more. Rinse and repeat.

Your halfway there. I don't know if this is right or wrong, but I swear I've put some grease on super tight metal sleeved bushings. Forgot to mention my tip #3 someone else mentioned earlier, greasing those threads helps a bunch. I broke my first one with dry threads and lots of umph.

jbailer · Apr 22, 2017

Bartly said:
Your halfway there. I don't know if this is right or wrong, but I swear I've put some grease on super tight metal sleeved bushings. Forgot to mention my tip #3 someone else mentioned earlier, greasing those threads helps a bunch. I broke my first one with dry threads and lots of umph.

Pressing it in was much easier than pressing out the original. Just the opposite, you don't want to grease them, you want to put red loctite on them.

Any recommendation on what kind of grease I should be using on the bearing itself if any and also on the adjustable toe rod? I didn't see anything in the instructions and I just feel like it should have something.

jbailer · Apr 22, 2017

Rustang said:
I used an impact with the press

Your's must have been much easier than mine, my air impact wouldn't touch it. Although I should've tried using that to insert the bushings. I just finished pressing in the driver's side bushing so all done. I'm guessing the passenger's side took about 600 lbs of force to remove while the driver's side only took about 400 lbs. The driver's side was much easier than the passenger's side but not easy by any means. That's a job I never want to do again. On both sides it was MUCH easier pressing the new bushings in that removing the old ones.

TNcoupe · Apr 22, 2017

Congrats.... now enjoy.

bandit67 · Apr 22, 2017

Sorry this is too late for you, jbailer, but for the next guy doing it, the key to getting them out fairly easy is spraying them with PB Blaster penetrating oil, or the like, and letting it soak in. I let it soak for an hour or so, and they both came out pretty easy after that.

Couldn't budge the first one with massive pressure and some damage to the sleeves the first try WITHOUT the PB Blaster.

Then clean the opening good with some brake cleaner to remove the penetrating oil so the red locktite will hold when you press the new bushing in.

GTBOB · Apr 23, 2017

I just want to confirm...I can take the bearings out of another set of factory toe links and press them into the knuckle?

I just bought this on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-2017-F...ash=item2a75bd20b0:g:IPQAAOSwiDFYNe7R&vxp=mtr

BmacIL · Apr 23, 2017

GTBOB said:
I just want to confirm...I can take the bearings out of another set of factory toe links and press them into the knuckle?

I just bought this on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-2017-F...ash=item2a75bd20b0:g:IPQAAOSwiDFYNe7R&vxp=mtr

Yes. They might be a tad looser fitting as a tiny amount of material may get lost pressing it out.

GTBOB · Apr 23, 2017

You know, I thought about that! I may end up sacrificing the actual toe link with some strategically-placed relief cuts with a bandsaw...prior to getting the bearing out.

jbailer · Apr 23, 2017

GTBOB said:
I just want to confirm...I can take the bearings out of another set of factory toe links and press them into the knuckle?

I just bought this on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-2017-F...ash=item2a75bd20b0:g:IPQAAOSwiDFYNe7R&vxp=mtr

I wouldn't want to re-use the stock bearings after pressing them out but they have a thinner outer metal sleeve and took some damage. The FP bearings have a thicker metal outer sleeve and will be pressed out of the toe links which aren't as solid as the knuckle and you won't be on your back so it should be easier so I don't think they take any or much damage coming out, should be fine.

jbailer · Apr 23, 2017

bandit67 said:
Sorry this is too late for you, jbailer, but for the next guy doing it, the key to getting them out fairly easy is spraying them with PB Blaster penetrating oil, or the like, and letting it soak in. I let it soak for an hour or so, and they both came out pretty easy after that.

Couldn't budge the first one with massive pressure and some damage to the sleeves the first try WITHOUT the PB Blaster.

Then clean the opening good with some brake cleaner to remove the penetrating oil so the red locktite will hold when you press the new bushing in.

I did that. I soaked them with Nano which is supposed to be a Military grade penetrating oil that I was told was better than PB Blaster. I'm not sure how much really gets in there though. If it was a horizontal joint, I think it might have been able to soak in better. Being a vertical joint, I think 95% of it just runs off. Who knows, maybe more gets in than I guess.

Lexman · Apr 23, 2017

Glad you got them out. I'm still glad I went my route for now but interested in your thoughts on their effect on performance.

Performance nut · Apr 23, 2017

Lexman said:
Glad you got them out. I'm still glad I went my route for now but interested in your thoughts on their effect on performance.

+1 someone who just worked their butt off will likely be more critical

jbailer · Apr 23, 2017

Lexman said:
Glad you got them out. I'm still glad I went my route for now but interested in your thoughts on their effect on performance.

I think you made the right move! The advantages of the Steeda shock mounts are significant. It makes a big difference when the dampers are able to do their job. For me, the FRPP knuckle to toe link bearing was just another one of those small steps. I don't think there's a magic pill for the IRS, there are many parts that when improved can really make it nice. You just get there 1 step at a time with further improvement. Yes there are some parts that do more than others but I think it's the sum of several. I can't really speak to the benefit of the bearing alone since I replaced it and installed the Steeda Adjustable Toe Link at the same time.

Performance nut said:
+1 someone who just worked their butt off will likely be more critical

Not at all, I did the Steeda shock mount before the bearing too and would again. Working my butt off was more to save money. Plus I feel like I have a better understanding of the components when I do the work myself.

Lexman · Apr 23, 2017

jbailer said:
I think you made the right move! The advantages of the Steeda shock mounts are significant. It makes a big difference when the dampers are able to do their job. For me, the FRPP knuckle to toe link bearing was just another one of those small steps. I don't think there's a magic pill for the IRS, there are many parts that when improved can really make it nice. You just get there 1 step at a time with further improvement. Yes there are some parts that do more than others but I think it's the sum of several. I can't really speak to the benefit of the bearing alone since I replaced it and installed the Steeda Adjustable Toe Link at the same time.

Not at all, I did the Steeda shock mount before the bearing too and would again. Working my butt off was more to save money. Plus I feel like I have a better understanding of the components when I do the work myself.

If you spend any time in this forum you quickly learn how complicated suspension can be. Everything you replace effects other parts so when replacing almost anything on the suspension you are changing more than the performance of that single part (good or bad).

The only two things I can think of that improves but has little or negative effect to the suspension is the cradle lockout and shock mounts.

Since your current suspension is close to what I have, I'm more curious what addition gain you notice.

Ford Performance Knuckle to to Toe Link Bearing

Rustang

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Bartly

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jbailer

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jbailer

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TNcoupe

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bandit67

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GTBOB

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BmacIL

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GTBOB

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jbailer

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jbailer

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Lexman

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Performance nut

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jbailer

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Lexman

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