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Tuning vs. Drive By Wire tweaks...

ctandc72

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Wasn't sure where to put this - as it applies to all Mustangs. So if a mod wants to move this, feel free.

I'm new to Mustangs, but not to new to modifying vehicles. Gained some experience with the earlier stages of EFI with GM vehicles from the 80's and 90's. Worked with 'piggyback' and other adapters that allowed us to see and change the programming of the factory ECM. Tuning of course has come along way.

My last vehicle was a Honda and with the tuning solution I had, I was able to make changes to the OEM Drive By Wire throttle settings. While this doesn't add any power, it DOES changes the way the car behaves in regards to the throttle being applied and how it drives - especially eliminating 'rev hang' programmed in at the factory when driving a manual transmission equipped car.

I plan on inquiring with the major tuners that have experience with Mustangs, but I'm wondering if people realize how much modifying these settings change the way the car drives?

It's not advancing spark timing or changing anything that could hurt the engine - again it doesn't gain ANY power - but it makes the Drive by Wire setup act more like a direct connected throttle.

Does anyone know if there is a tuner / software solution out there that would allow me to adjust these settings? While I plan on getting tuned (most likely dyno tuned after the car has some miles on it) I would LOVE to make these drive-ability changes ASAP.
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Nagare

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You just need to pick up a JMS PedalMax or Pedal Commander. It plugs right in by the pedal and is easily reversed, doesn't involve any tinkering with settings. Basically amps your input up to 100% from the start so you're not having to push the pedal to the floor.

I love it on my car, but I also know a tune would be a much better change in power and acceleration.
 
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ctandc72

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You just need to pick up a JMS PedalMax or Pedal Commander. It plugs right in by the pedal and is easily reversed, doesn't involve any tinkering with settings. Basically amps your input up to 100% from the start so you're not having to push the pedal to the floor.

I love it on my car, but I also know a tune would be a much better change in power and acceleration.
The issue I have with those devices is they are altering the signal to the pedal. It's literally a failure point between you and the throttle on your car. $200+ wouldn't be horrible for this, but this also would NOT allow me to eliminate the OEM programmed rev hang for my manual transmission equipped car.

Right now I'm down to either buying SCT's software or HPTuners software. This would allow me to fix the DBW and Rev Hang settings and also allow me to change my gear ratio in the ECM for my 3.55 swap.
 

Nagare

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If you're going to void your warranty by doing something like that, why wouldn't you go all the way with a tune then? I'm not sure I see the point (edit » forgot the part where you said tune later, this now). Can't help you with the rev hang part though.

And for the gear swap, it should just be changing the gear out and go, not programming anything.
 
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ctandc72

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If you're going to void your warranty by doing something like that, why wouldn't you go all the way with a tune then? I'm not sure I see the point (edit » forgot the part where you said tune later, this now). Can't help you with the rev hang part though.

And for the gear swap, it should just be changing the gear out and go, not programming anything.
The gear swap is the entire differential. 3.55 in place of the 3.15. A programming change HAS to be made so that the speedometer and other associated issues are corrected for the different rear gear ratio.

Personally I'd rather a malfunction fall on something I did wrong, that a failure of an additional component - but that's just my preference.
 

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The gear swap is the entire differential. 3.55 in place of the 3.15. A programming change HAS to be made so that the speedometer and other associated issues are corrected for the different rear gear ratio.

Personally I'd rather a malfunction fall on something I did wrong, that a failure of an additional component - but that's just my preference.

Who told you a programming change "has" to be made? What is the reference?
 

Nagare

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I haven't seen anyone else mention it so far, everyone does the part swap and that's it. It's the same with changes in wheel size, sure you might be better off changing parameters with Forscan, but it isn't a necessity.
 
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ctandc72

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Who told you a programming change "has" to be made? What is the reference?
Forgot about this thread. Yep - I was totally wrong. Apparently Ford switched to a speed sensor setup using the ABS wheel sensors. So going from 3.15 to 3.55 is within a margin that the sensor can pick up and since I have 6 speed - no programming changes needed. I updated this in my build thread.
 

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reprogramming the ecu to calibrate for different wheel/tire sizes and different gear ratios needs to be done through the BCM on the 15+ cars it is no longer controlled through the ECM and if it is not calibrated the speedo/tach will be off
 
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ctandc72

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Nagare

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[MENTION=32548]ctandc72[/MENTION] Could just be my end, but your link seems truncated and isn't working for me
 
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ctandc72

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[MENTION=32548]ctandc72[/MENTION] Could just be my end, but your link seems truncated and isn't working for me
yeah, I screwed something up. Should be good now.
 

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I don't really feel rev hang but I came from turbo Volkswagens that had some real serious rev hang so maybe I've just had worse.

How easy is this gear swap thing? I keep contemplating it but I don't want the install to go bad and mess up my Stang. 3.55s with a MPT 93prx tune would make this thing rip.
 
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ctandc72

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I don't really feel rev hang but I came from turbo Volkswagens that had some real serious rev hang so maybe I've just had worse.

How easy is this gear swap thing? I keep contemplating it but I don't want the install to go bad and mess up my Stang. 3.55s with a MPT 93prx tune would make this thing rip.
If you're swapping the entire differential it's not bad at all. Take rear wheels off, break loose the rear axle nuts, remove and hang the calipers, remove a couple of brackets, remove 3 bolts per side to drop the knuckle down, pull the halfshafts out, axle vent line and unbolt the diff and drop it out.
 
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ctandc72

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reprogramming the ecu to calibrate for different wheel/tire sizes and different gear ratios needs to be done through the BCM on the 15+ cars it is no longer controlled through the ECM and if it is not calibrated the speedo/tach will be off
I've sent an email to HPTuners support, haven't heard back. Do you know if HPTuners will allow me to make gear changes via the BCM? It's a deciding factor at this point. For $500 I can have the ability to tweak the DBW / Throttle settings to suit me, make the gear change and when I'm ready for a tune I can just have the tuner send me a HPTuner file - if I can't find a tuner to dyno tune it that's not more than a couple hours drive.
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