Sponsored
BmacIL
Enginerd
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2014
- Threads
- 69
- Messages
- 15,010
- Reaction score
- 8,921
- Location
- Naperville, IL
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Guard GT Base, M/T
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
Yeah you'll probably have to remove the wheel. Make sure it's not rubbing on the rotor.
wildcatgoal
@sirboom_photography
You don't have to remove the wheel, just jack and support the car, then at the bottom point of the rotor is where the shield that often is a culprit is - just pull it back just enough that it stays back a little more than it was.
DennisP
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #49
Welp, it was the dust shield, just like you said! I drove back and they figured it out pretty quickly.
The whistling sound IS the differential and it's only audible within a very narrow rpm band. I can consistently cause it to whistle if I stay at 55-60ish mph (in 6th), and it disappears every time I let off the throttle.
The only remaining thing is the "clunking" that occurs at lower speeds. It's definitely not brake related, and it's coming from the rear of the car. Some people have mentioned "driveline slop" and others mentioned "binding" which could be the result of not clocking bushings.
Is there any way for me to tell? The car seems to drive fine, tight, tracks straight, not floaty feeling etc.
The whistling sound IS the differential and it's only audible within a very narrow rpm band. I can consistently cause it to whistle if I stay at 55-60ish mph (in 6th), and it disappears every time I let off the throttle.
The only remaining thing is the "clunking" that occurs at lower speeds. It's definitely not brake related, and it's coming from the rear of the car. Some people have mentioned "driveline slop" and others mentioned "binding" which could be the result of not clocking bushings.
Is there any way for me to tell? The car seems to drive fine, tight, tracks straight, not floaty feeling etc.
BmacIL
Enginerd
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2014
- Threads
- 69
- Messages
- 15,010
- Reaction score
- 8,921
- Location
- Naperville, IL
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Guard GT Base, M/T
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
The diff bushings will make all driveline noises more audible. Sounds like normal stuff. Glad the other noise was just the dust shield!
Sponsored
Bluemustang
Well-Known Member
What he said. The diff bushings did that on my car and still does it.
I hope you're enjoyin it DennisP. I've got a very similar setup and am enjoying it a lot now. It's very stiff and firm but it's not beating me up too bad. Feels very tight.
DennisP
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #53
Yeah, the ride is extremely tight and flat going into corners and very stable at higher speeds. The ride quality over bumps and imperfections is well sorted though, and about as well-damped as my stock non-PP setup, so I'm extremely happy. The poly-diff lockout from BMR is good enough without making things too stiff.
I'm probably going to save for wider wheels and tires and do the front control arm bearing from Steeda in a few more months and that will probably be it for suspension.
Then, I can move on to some power upgrades.
I'm probably going to save for wider wheels and tires and do the front control arm bearing from Steeda in a few more months and that will probably be it for suspension.
Then, I can move on to some power upgrades.
Bluemustang
Well-Known Member
Those are next on my list.Yeah, the ride is extremely tight and flat going into corners and very stable at higher speeds. The ride quality over bumps and imperfections is well sorted though, and about as well-damped as my stock non-PP setup, so I'm extremely happy. The poly-diff lockout from BMR is good enough without making things too stiff.
I'm probably going to save for wider wheels and tires and do the front control arm bearing from Steeda in a few more months and that will probably be it for suspension.
Then, I can move on to some power upgrades.
1. Wider wheels/tires
2. Front control arm bearing
3. BMR front subframe brace (CB006)
Suspension done! Next will be GT350 manifold and 47lb injectors hehe
DennisP
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #55
A little more driving since adjusting the brake dust plate and I just wanted to reiterate how happy I am with the way the car handles now.
And other big shout-out to TFB Performance for doing great work on the installation and answering my panicked emails lol
And other big shout-out to TFB Performance for doing great work on the installation and answering my panicked emails lol
Sponsored
DennisP
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #56
Just wanted to give another update after another 400 miles on the car...
1) Differential whine is noticeable at between 55-62ish mph and non-existent at other speeds.
2) Shift clunks/thunks at low gear changes/ momentum shifts at low speeds (annoying)
3) Low speed clicking/ metallic clonking sounds noticeable at certain times when moving from a stop sign/ stop light and also when slowing down. This is a new kind of sound that I didn't notice before having the brake dust shield adjusted at the shop, but it's become prevalent in the last couple of weeks. It's like a series of 3 or 4 little clonks, not very loud but really obvious. I don't think it's transmission/ driveline related since it seems to be coming from the passenger side rear tire area more than the "center" of the rear of the car which is where the trans/driveline clunks come from. Anybody got any ideas on what to check; shock mounts? vertical links?
1) Differential whine is noticeable at between 55-62ish mph and non-existent at other speeds.
2) Shift clunks/thunks at low gear changes/ momentum shifts at low speeds (annoying)
3) Low speed clicking/ metallic clonking sounds noticeable at certain times when moving from a stop sign/ stop light and also when slowing down. This is a new kind of sound that I didn't notice before having the brake dust shield adjusted at the shop, but it's become prevalent in the last couple of weeks. It's like a series of 3 or 4 little clonks, not very loud but really obvious. I don't think it's transmission/ driveline related since it seems to be coming from the passenger side rear tire area more than the "center" of the rear of the car which is where the trans/driveline clunks come from. Anybody got any ideas on what to check; shock mounts? vertical links?
Last edited:
BmacIL
Enginerd
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2014
- Threads
- 69
- Messages
- 15,010
- Reaction score
- 8,921
- Location
- Naperville, IL
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Guard GT Base, M/T
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
Check the torque on the shock mount nuts.
BmacIL
Enginerd
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2014
- Threads
- 69
- Messages
- 15,010
- Reaction score
- 8,921
- Location
- Naperville, IL
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Guard GT Base, M/T
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
No the nut that fixes the mount to the shock shaft.