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papinist

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As Makis said, unplugging the DRL is all you need to disable that ugly lights!
If you'll ever had the chance to use an OBD tool, you should see an error regarding these lights - just ignore it :thumbsup:
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MakStang

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BKStang

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Hey guys
Going to be installing the DRL's shortly via the cut a hole in the bottom method, what has everyone been using to hold in the LED boards and stick the cutout back in with?
Was looking at some Sikaflex 252 or some JB Plastic Weld. Wanted something I could pick up locally.
Any thoughts?
 

steerage250

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I used an awkward mix of wooden skewers with tape running-off in all directions to put some bend and force into the skewers to hold the boards in place. Not elegant, and I'm sure there's a better way - but it worked. I used normal Araldite to glue mine, but on reflection, 5 minute stuff would have been better as some excess ran down to where it shouldn't have. Good luck.
 

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apsilon

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Was looking at some Sikaflex 252 or some JB Plastic Weld. Wanted something I could pick up locally.
Any thoughts?
I'd use Sikaflex 255 or 252. Flexible so it's not going to crack and fail from vibration and can be removed if necessary without too much effort but at the same time more than strong enough.
 

Bushranger

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I just used 5 minute araldite. The boards fit over plastic nibs and the adhesive doesn't do all the work to hold them in place. Now, make sure you address the red vs white wire problem before reinstalling the bumper. I don't know if diode dynamics have rectified this yet. The DRL must dim in parking light mode, not the other way round.
Also, I just had to remove my wheel and well liner to rectify a loose T-Tap which worked fine for 4 months. I soldered all the connections and insulated the joints. I recommend soldering vs T Taps as have others ( see European sub forum)
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