BMR's "CB005" S550 IRS Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit - PICS & INFO!

Okay, I have my kit.

Does this kit lower the cradle by the thickness of the upper bushing cups base? They look to be about 1/8 inch thick. And if it will, could that be a problem for pinion angles? I ask because people are claiming they cured factory vibrations with small shims which seems to imply the opposite is possible.

technically it does lower the cradle very slightly, but alteration of the pinion angle seems to be very minimal.

IvanCRF said:

Also, in my case of installing the CB005 and Steeda Diff inserts, the rear end of my car gained some height (3/8'') compared to the front. I have pictures of this in my install thread. I guess the height increase of the rear is because the bushings no longer compress like they used to under the car's weight and because of the thickness of the CB005 components, which puts the subframe slightly farther down since they sit atop to cover the cradle's soft rubber bushings.

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I understand the subframe is slightly farther from the body BUT isn't the upper spring perch in the same place? I would think all that would change would be the angle of the drive shaft and the axles.

HoosierDaddy said:

I understand the subframe is slightly farther from the body BUT isn't the upper spring perch in the same place? I would think all that would change would be the angle of the drive shaft and the axles.

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Correct. Also, the CB005 changes the height of the subframe an amount that is not going to be measurable.

In stock form, the irs subframe "sags".

With the CB005, the subframe can rise a touch, but not "drop".

The CB005 positions the subframe in the "neutral" position (removes bushing sag/ preload)

BMR Tech said:

In stock form, the irs subframe "sags".

With the CB005, the sub-frame can rise a touch, but not "drop".

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Can you explain how that works? I mean you are adding something between the sub-frame and the body so why wouldn't they be farther apart?

If there is rubber between the sub-frame and the body from the factory, I can see how that could squish a certain amount based on the bolt torque. If the sub-frame is closer to the body with your product wouldn't that mean the rubber would have to be even more compressed? How does that happen with the same torque values for the bolts? I'm not doubting you, just not understanding.

I'll explain more when I get back to the office. We have been shut down since last week. (Hurricane Irma)

You're not really adding anything "between" the subframe and the chassis. You are filling a void/gap...locking the inner bushing sleeve to the subframe due to its superior design, and actually lifting the subframe up from it's sagged position with the lower formed washers in the rear and lower lockout washer on the front mounts.

First image is rear. The yellow is the bushing not loaded, like if you held in your hand without the weight of the parts sagging it. The blue line is the subframe bushing lip, and the dotted line portrays approximate location (example) of where that lip sits on a stock car, in it's sagged position. Installing the BMR cb005 raises that lip back up, which will show a larger gap (yellow indicator)

Second pic is the front. The red lower washer fills the factory void and raises the subframe up. The blue lines shown would show a gap smaller than that red washer in stock form, again sagged.

Hope that helps for now.

From 9.0s in the 1/4 to cutting 1.5 sixty foot times on street tires, our CB005 is just doing work out there!

The best part is, just as many results on the road courses and autoX courses too!

Check these recent performances out!

CB005 FTW

Welp - this car seems to be working well with our CB005! :eyebulge:

Bushings cut wrong

I bought the early J&M aluminum bushings and cut them down, this caused a mis-sized bushing that "rattles" & sometimes "bangs". I've got to re-do the install with proper sized bushings to fix my screw up, but with the CB006 front 4 pt. brace I am cutting new trails on my coastal hwy's!

Congrats to Chris Ho on one heck of an accomplishment!

#RESULTS!

Boostworks laid the SMACK down over the weekend! They demolished the S550 Mustang Standing Mile record, and set the overall Coyote engine fastest standing mile pass!

This car relies on none other than, a full BMR suspension system with Koni dampers Annnnnnnnd: the BMR CB005! ;)

I'm looking at getting the kit this month. I have seen some do the fronts then rear or one side front and back then the other side. What is the true best method for keeping the cradle centered. Second are people just hand tightening all corners until every piece is in place then coming back and torque to spec?

Kong76 said:

I'm looking at getting the kit this month. I have seen some do the fronts then rear or one side front and back then the other side. What is the true best method for keeping the cradle centered. Second are people just hand tightening all corners until every piece is in place then coming back and torque to spec?

Click to expand...

There are a couple other threads that are chock full of tips and other people's methods.

I recommend getting the Steeda alignment sleeves for the cb005.