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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

stang9779

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How does the new Polk Audio db840DVC sound and did you have to do any modification to get it to fit the factory enclosure? Are you using the stock amp for this sub as well or did you upgrade it too?
Same question. Is there a big difference?
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GoBlues38

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so the shielded cable for the shaker DME17 with all the inputs for the amp is low level (pre amp) ?

One should be able to pick up signal from that point and connect RCA's?
 

slythetove

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Sure thing, I'll do it later tomorrow when I'm doing the pinouts.

Polk Audio db840DVC 8 inch - Dual Voice Coil Sub
Polk Audio db8G - Grille
I'll echo (paste) the same questions about this as for me I am DYING to know. Is it possible to simply get this Polk 8 and put it in the stock enclosure using the existing amp and improve sound quality?

How does the new Polk Audio db840DVC sound and did you have to do any modification to get it to fit the factory enclosure? Are you using the stock amp for this sub as well or did you upgrade it too?
 

Souldriver

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All very useful info.

In my 2007 i took out the shaker headunit and put in my own pioneer unit and bought a used MTX kit that was made specifically to fit my mustang (like the shaker pictured). This gave me a sub with its own amp, a cut off for the door "subs" bc they really at doing bass and its odd having bass coming from there, gave me an eq which is HUGE to sound quality, and all fancy gadgets like bluetooth phone stuffs.

Im thinking about a 2016 but audio is a big thing to me. Since the new headunits already have all the fun stuff in them i dont want to go and buy another headunit so fast. is there a way to add a sub and maybe an eq, and cap the door subs from going lower than say 100mhz with the existing unit?
 

blakedanatural

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Very Nice Info! I also have the gt premium with the 9 speaker layout (400a) My question is can I install a infinity powered sub or a bazooka powered tube in the shaker pro sub area?

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Blakedanatural
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EcoBOSS

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There are a few things that I wanted to do BEFORE the Polk SW goes in, that image was just some GIMP work (i.e.: "Photoshopped") to kill time waiting for the big brown truck.

I wanted some baseline data as doing mods without data is kind of worthless (unless they are cosmetic anyway...). I ordered a 40-130db sound meter from Amazon to do the checks and it didn't arrive until yesterday. So, at 8pm and 98*, I was in the driveway with the windows up and everything off except the stereo. Gah :crazy:

The stereo was set to "Flat" (Press the zero under sound settings) and the subwoofer was disconnected. This run was JUST for the interior speakers (6.5", 3.5" and 1") and is represented by the yellow line. The source was a CD from Focal that you can burn yourself for free (Here - check out the site for the frequencies). Anything under 40db did not register on the meter (Displayed "LO"), so I listed them as 39db and these were imperceptible to my old, broken ears.

While I connected the subwoofer I turned the AC on long enough to cool that hotbox interior, then everything was shut off for run 3 (the very first run was WITH EQ settings and therefore tainted), run 3 is "flat w/ sub", the blue line.




What I'm getting from this is:
The subwoofer is practically a "Must Have" - the stereo sounded weak and rough without it.
The subwoofer/enclosure appears to be tuned for 50hz with a "floor" of 30Hz (-3db), but was reproducing audible frequencies as low as 20Hz (-15db).
The 6.5" speakers peak at 125Hz (i.e. "Boomy" bass/guitar and flat sounding voices).
The 3.5" speakers peak at 500Hz (i.e. Nasally voices and cheap sounding acoustic guitar).
The tweeters peak at 2,500Hz and fall flat on their faces by 10,000Hz - There is no "sizzle" from symbols noticeable at all (~15,000Hz) - not that I could hear it if there was, but it didn't register on the meter at ALL. :eek:

This weekend is:
* Measure the sub enclosure with water in a trash bag to get a rough idea of the actual size (cu ft = gallons(US)/7.48).
* Fill the enclosure with "Polyfil" to make the speakers think they are in a larger enclosure and drop that 50Hz tuning down further in the spectrum.
This would be a great cheap mod (<$10) if the numbers support it.
Rerun test 3 with the polyfil SW enclosure.
* Ohm the factory speaker to verify (2 Ohms - Each of the two voice coils [DVC]).
* Install and test the Polk SW - Polyfil if the enclosure is less than the 0.35cuft Polk suggests).

:headbang:
 
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GTP

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I think you meant 39Hz, not 39dB. Please turn the balance all the way to one side for your next tests. Stereo testing is not good.

You can replace the small factory woofer with a higher quality one that is a drop-in, but the low bass extension and max SPL loudness is still limited by the small enclosure volume. Polyfil stuffing will make near-zero measurable difference, and no subjective difference.

The greatest gains in the low/middle bass will be had by putting in a larger enclosure, which comes at the expense of trunk space. I am qualified to do this as a group project, but those always have so many cooks in the kitchen that they often die on the vine.

(IMO, the Shaker upgrade - you know, the first option that throw in your face and the build-and-price website - is a terrible waste of money. Imagine putting $1000 of that towards a DIY audio upgrade. I would start with a music source, and then the trunk subwoofer.)
 
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smdandb2

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There are a few things that I wanted to do BEFORE the Polk SW goes in, that image was just some GIMP work (i.e.: "Photoshopped") to kill time waiting for the big brown truck.

I wanted some baseline data as doing mods without data is kind of worthless (unless they are cosmetic anyway...). I ordered a 40-130db sound meter from Amazon to do the checks and it didn't arrive until yesterday. So, at 8pm and 98*, I was in the driveway with the windows up and everything off except the stereo. Gah :crazy:

The stereo was set to "Flat" (Press the zero under sound settings) and the subwoofer was disconnected. This run was JUST for the interior speakers (6.5", 3.5" and 1") and is represented by the yellow line. The source was a CD from Focal that you can burn yourself for free (Here - check out the site for the frequencies). Anything under 40db did not register on the meter (Displayed "LO"), so I listed them as 39db and these were imperceptible to my old, broken ears.

While I connected the subwoofer I turned the AC on long enough to cool that hotbox interior, then everything was shut off for run 3 (the very first run was WITH EQ settings and therefore tainted), run 3 is "flat w/ sub", the blue line.




What I'm getting from this is:
The subwoofer is practically a "Must Have" - the stereo sounded weak and rough without it.
The subwoofer/enclosure appears to be tuned for 50hz with a "floor" of 30Hz (-3db), but was reproducing audible frequencies as low as 20Hz (-15db).
The 6.5" speakers peak at 125Hz (i.e. "Boomy" bass/guitar and flat sounding voices).
The 3.5" speakers peak at 500Hz (i.e. Nasally voices and cheap sounding acoustic guitar).
The tweeters peak at 2,500Hz and fall flat on their faces by 10,000Hz - There is no "sizzle" from symbols noticeable at all (~15,000Hz) - not that I could hear it if there was, but it didn't register on the meter at ALL. :eek:

This weekend is:
* Measure the sub enclosure with water in a trash bag to get a rough idea of the actual size (cu ft = gallons(US)/7.48).
* Fill the enclosure with "Polyfil" to make the speakers think they are in a larger enclosure and drop that 50Hz tuning down further in the spectrum.
This would be a great cheap mod (<$10) if the numbers support it.
Rerun test 3 with the polyfil SW enclosure.
* Ohm the factory speaker to verify (4 Ohms).
* Install and test the Polk SW - Polyfil if the enclosure is less than the 0.35cuft Polk suggests).

:headbang:
That is some great info there.

I'm eagerly awaiting my calibrated microphone so I can do some RTA tests on the stock stereo before I tear everything apart.
 

EcoBOSS

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Thx,
Looking to show folks what is possible with minimal cost.
The speakers are being replaced due to the general quality issues associated with most factory speakers, and to clean up the sound.
Testing the system at specific frequencies IN STEREO shows proper phasing on all speakers and gives us repeatable results once retested. This will show as a positive or negative on the chart and from there we can determine OUR OWN cost benefit analysis.

Since not everyone has time or access to tools, I figured I'd do the basic steps and show IF there is any benefit to things like wire gauge, power feeds and Polyfil-ing enclosures because, Science!

Note: I am NOT a sound engineer, I do not claim to be a sound engineer, nor do I play one on television; any resemblance to me and a sound engineer is purely coincidence.
 

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GTP

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I merely suggested mono testing to prevent phase interference between non-conincident left/right speaker arrays. That is the best way to gauge speaker response, and therefore to determine/apply EQ. After that, regular old RTA testing in stereo will be fine.
 

B.Crowder

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I wanted some baseline data as doing mods without data is kind of worthless (unless they are cosmetic anyway...)
...
Great data. Any chance you can do a front speaker vs. rear speaker comparison. My ears are telling me that there is a bit of roll off at the bottom end to the rear on my non-subwoofer equipped system. I'm concerned about taking the signal for the sub from the rear if the lows are compromised.
 

15gtguy

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Million$$$Question, Did the polk sub in the stock enclosure sound better? Did you use the stock amp with the polk sub?

Subwoofer:
Amp: YanFeng Visteon S69GA (From Shaker Mustang, Fusion, F150 and Lincoln MKS) P/N: BA1T-18C808-AA (50Wx2?).
Speaker: 8 in. PAPER cone with foam surround model with 2 voicecoils (L, R) and the amp connection pinout is to follow. The sub has 6 T20 screws on the front that hold the grille to the case (through the SW flange) and one 8mm bolt that goes through the back of the case to the base of the Subwoofer. The speaker is only 4 in. deep and finding a replacement may be difficult. A Polk Audio db840dvc 8-inch dual voice coil subwoofer looks like a good match.

I would LOVE to know if this amp is 2ohm stable and bridgeable, a 100W 2Ohm setup would be awesome - HIGHLY doubtful though.

IMAG4208.jpg


Installed

IMAG4209.jpg


Cover

IMAG4211.jpg


Mounting area - One Torx bolt, 2 - 15mm bolts under the cover (2 T-20 screws)

IMAG4213.jpg


Bottom of unit showing Amp input connector

IMAG4214.jpg


Front, grille removed

IMAG4215.jpg


Back with 8mm SW mounting bolt shown

IMAG4220.jpg


4 wires (L, R) to SW - ONLY marking is [CHINA] - Assuming 2 Channel 100W (50w+50w) 4 Ohm based on specs of the system overall.

IMAG4221.jpg


Interior of SW cabinet with NO port, no seal between speaker and box, no batting material and the mounting post in the center; no doubt to control the vibrations from the back flexing.
 

EcoBOSS

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First time using GIMP - Not bad...
There are a few things that I wanted to do BEFORE the Polk SW goes in, that image was just some GIMP work (i.e.: "Photoshopped") to kill time waiting for the big brown truck...
The Polk is not/has not been installed, it was Photoshopped to kill time while waiting for parts.
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