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2016 lambda sensor failed 1200 miles

Jeff's FRC

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You want them between the 11 and 1 oclock positions. Somewhere around the top of the pipe.
Here is a pic of where the bung is located on the SP longtube. It's directly on the side of the collector. If the bung is to remain in the collector, there's not many options due to where that collector sits.


Here's a pic of the headers on the car. Mounting on top of the collector isn't an option. You guys think grinding out the bung and rewelding it in a downward angle in the same spot would prevent issue? Anyone that has relocated have pics of exactly what they did?
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A downward angle would be the same or worse.

IMO, the stock sensors are widebands and they can be manipulated in the tune. You see where those secondary sensors are mounted? That's a better spot to mount the primaries and just delete the secondaries.....except you are running cats. If you were catless I wouldn't hesitate but I am not sure how aftermarket cats skew the Ford widebands, I know it's not a good idea to put GM narrowbands behind the cats....might be different here on the dark side....
 

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A downward angle would be the same or worse.

IMO, the stock sensors are widebands and they can be manipulated in the tune. You see where those secondary sensors are mounted? That's a better spot to mount the primaries and just delete the secondaries.....except you are running cats. If you were catless I wouldn't hesitate but I am not sure how aftermarket cats skew the Ford widebands, I know it's not a good idea to put GM narrowbands behind the cats....might be different here on the dark side....
By downward meaning the tip of the sensor pointing toward the ground. This is the correct way to orient the sensors and as they were from the factory.

You also do not want the widebands too far away from the engine either. Although they are a heated sensor this is to only help them warm up. If they are too far away from the engine (too cold) they will not operate correctly.
 

Jeff's FRC

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A downward angle would be the same or worse.

IMO, the stock sensors are widebands and they can be manipulated in the tune. You see where those secondary sensors are mounted? That's a better spot to mount the primaries and just delete the secondaries.....except you are running cats. If you were catless I wouldn't hesitate but I am not sure how aftermarket cats skew the Ford widebands, I know it's not a good idea to put GM narrowbands behind the cats....might be different here on the dark side....
That picture of the headers installed is not my car. The first picture I posted is of my actual headers, which DONT have cats. My car is in storage for a couple more months so I have yet to install them. Us guys up in the northern states don't have year round fun car weather...lol

So you're saying that I should install the new bungs in the pipes where the cats would be located. Picture below is my actual setup.
 

Jeff's FRC

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And in IL we can't have our rear O2 sensors turned off in the tune. We won't pass emissions. What I did on my previous Mustang was to have my tuner turn the rear O2's back on in the tune, and run O2 spacers. Soooo, eliminating the rear O2's is simply not an option for many of us.
 

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Nick@JDM

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That picture of the headers installed is not my car. The first picture I posted is of my actual headers, which DONT have cats. My car is in storage for a couple more months so I have yet to install them. Us guys up in the northern states don't have year round fun car weather...lol

So you're saying that I should install the new bungs in the pipes where the cats would be located. Picture below is my actual setup.

I would not recommend this. That't too far down the exhaust stream.
 

Higgs Boson

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I would not recommend this. That't too far down the exhaust stream.
If they check the O2 readiness in IL then it's a moot point, but can't you command more heat into the O2 sensors to compensate for location in the Fords? Tip temp?

And if he means downward as in tip down then yes, but if he means downward like bung down, then no, I think he meant bung down since there is no room on top near the collector.
 

Jeff's FRC

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If they check the O2 readiness in IL then it's a moot point, but can't you command more heat into the O2 sensors to compensate for location in the Fords? Tip temp?

And if he means downward as in tip down then yes, but if he means downward like bung down, then no, I think he meant bung down since there is no room on top near the collector.
No, I meant bung in same position as what's pictured, but with a downward angle so the tip of the O2 sensor is pointed downward.

I would get a check engine light every once in a blue moon on my old supercharged 3V with longtubes. Was due to the O2 position being further than stock. The tuner fixed it I'm guessing by commanding more heat. He said it was quite common.
 

Jeff's FRC

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And I was asking about moving the primary O2 about 6-8 inches further downstream. The new bung would end up in the middle pipe where the cat would be.
 

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Higgs Boson

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I would say move it back as little as necessary to get it upright as much as possible (tip down), command more heat and you also tell it to correct more slowly. As Nick has said, farther back is not ideal but you can compensate in the tune for it but you can't compensate for killing injectors all the time.
 

Jeff's FRC

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Is there anyway tuning alone can help with this issue? Maybe a slower heat up time if that's even possible?

I would suggest having the O2 bungs relocated to angle the senors like this / \ in the collector. I had the same issue on my 12 and it would eat up O2s on E85 until i relocated it.

[MENTION=10992]Major League Infidel[/MENTION] do you have pics or more info of what exactly you did to resolve the issue?
 
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Update : I installed the new motorcraft DY1308 sensor .. Right away I noticed my bank 1 and bank 2 lambda values are more even than with the previous sensor . I'm guessing the failed sensor was bad from the start . I also picked up 2 mpg average on my e85 flex tune . I'll test next week to see if my mph picks up at all from last weeks 118
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