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Transmission 12v. Pump thermo control

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Jmk

Jmk

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Can't a thermo controlled switch be wired to a hot circuit so it can cool between runs the same way a radiator cooling fan can stay on after the engine is shut down?

If a manual switch is used, does anyone know a place to wire through the firewall without drilling?
The only problem is, at least I, cannot find a thermo switch for our application
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Yes, but problem is heat sensor location. Ford's temp sensor is probably the best location. Since it is doing nothing replacement with a turn on sensor of about 160~180 and 20 delta would be great, then move ford temp sensor to cooler line, maybe a second sensor on return line and a toggle switch to see how much cooling is happening. The obvious cooler line locations are drain and refill holes. But I'm not sure how cools itself? Just oil splash? Here is pic of cooler lines, do tech cars have the return line port?
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does somebody have tyranny laying around from swap to help with questions
 

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If a manual switch is used, does anyone know a place to wire through the firewall without drilling?
The only good spot on the GT350 is behind the passenger side wheel well liner. This is basically under the battery. If you had an auto GT car there is another spot on the drivers side where the clutch slave is normally mounted on stick cars.

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Yes, but problem is heat sensor location. Ford's temp sensor is probably the best location.
The spot we choose for Tony's temp sensor is on the opposite side of the case as the factory one, but similar placement. It is close to the drain hole which is the location that the pump draws the hot fluid out of. I used an 02 sensor plug and drilled it out to fit the temp probe. The hole in the transmission needed to be drilled out just slightly in order to tap it for the plug which is M16x1.5. You have to unbolt the transmission cross member to lower the transmission to be able to drill and tap that hole.
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The only good spot on the GT350 is behind the passenger side wheel well liner. This is basically under the battery. If you had an auto GT car there is another spot on the drivers side where the clutch slave is normally mounted on stick cars.
Thanks. Is there anything to mount to there, or do you need to drill to mount?
 
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John. You set up seams like it's the cleanest and most functional. So ten hours to drill the case and wire up the sensor to the control module.
 

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Yes. That would be doing the entire harness though which includes wiring from the thermostat control unit, temperature probe, 30 amp relay, fuse, and wiring to pump. The entire harness will be loomed, heat shrinked and all connections I use delphi weathpack style male/female connections. No butt connectors or vampire clips. If you want to save a little money we could mount the thermostat control unit with double sided tape instead of making a custom aluminum box like we did for Tony's. This would knock it down 2 hours labor.
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Interesting idea, but doesn't turn on until 196 F.
I used this item.
Attached the thermostatic switch to the 'tab' on the transmission.
Wrapped it in A/C insulation. You know... that sticky stuff.

Turns on at an indicated 215F, turns off at 156F.
Then turns on again at 215F.

No, it's not cooling or pumping all the time, but it doesn't go into limp mode.

FWIW,
Kirby
 

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autobahnGT350

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Hi John,

I sent you a PM. Thanks,
 
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Here is a pic of one of those thermostat controllers as they come

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John. How many inputs-outputs does that controller has? Apart from transmission is it possible to read and control the rear end? Would I be able to install factory differential parts(sensor) and have it be controlled by your module? Thanks
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