Hey you FI dataloggers

Bartly said:

Yeah, not going to happen. I don't want to ever see him again. Turning off my knock sensors and telling me straight out in two conversations that he didn't do that and never would puts him into the category of someone that is a waste of breath to talk to.

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Is it a big name tuner that we should be aware of? Doesn't sound like it but I don't think anyone would want to work with a tuner that disables the knock sensors...

blaket0w said:

Is it a big name tuner that we should be aware of? Doesn't sound like it but I don't think anyone would want to work with a tuner that disables the knock sensors...

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Not to worry, he doesn't do remote tunes and from what I gather works mostly on GM stuff local to me only. I found only one on-line reference to him tuning a coyote and the customer he pissed off for screwing up his car, unfortunately this was after I had concluded tuning with him.

Bartly said:

Not to worry, he doesn't do remote tunes and from what I gather works mostly on GM stuff local to me only. I found only one on-line reference to him tuning a coyote and the customer he pissed off for screwing up his car, unfortunately this was after I had concluded tuning with him.

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Ok just wanted to make sure some tuner some of us use is turning off knock sensors and saying otherwise lol.
:cheers:

Bartly said:

Yeah, not going to happen. I don't want to ever see him again. Turning off my knock sensors and telling me straight out in two conversations that he didn't do that and never would puts him into the category of someone that is a waste of breath to talk to.

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Go with Lund and don't look back!

Tuned by Lund, and I never get positive knockr on 91. Part throttle is usually 0, and harder acceleration always results in a negative knockr #

MikeyPee said:

Tuned by Lund, and I never get positive knockr on 91. Part throttle is usually 0, and harder acceleration always results in a negative knockr #

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Dude, I'm so jeolous. Can't wait for me to get to that point.

my knockr is base on the header temperature, when it just reach 175, which the oil temp turns to "normal" the car will add 1 to 2, sometimes 3 degree of timing. Things start to go to shit starting at 215 header temp, which it will start pulling 2-4 degrees of timing.

The lambda 1 and 2 are all fine, 1 in regular driving, at 0.78 at WOT, fuel pump duty cycle at 50 (normally at 30) At this point I am sure that it is the tune instead of false knock, but it is a one tune fits all procharger tune, I have no ground to complain, and they won't give you the time of day to really find out what's going on with your car because their kits sells like hot cake anyways

cyandhappiness said:

my knockr is base on the header temperature, when it just reach 175, which the oil temp turns to "normal" the car will add 1 to 2, sometimes 3 degree of timing. Things start to go to shit starting at 215 header temp, which it will start pulling 2-4 degrees of timing.

The lambda 1 and 2 are all fine, 1 in regular driving, at 0.78 at WOT, fuel pump duty cycle at 50 (normally at 30) At this point I am sure that it is the tune instead of false knock, but it is a one tune fits all procharger tune, I have no ground to complain, and they won't give you the time of day to really find out what's going on with your car because their kits sells like hot cake anyways

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If u mean head temp,that sounds like just a good safe tune,at 215 cht i could see the pcm pulling some timing,compared to at 175 wheir its adding timing.Imo nothing is wrong is long as your only seeing that at those temps.

cyandhappiness said:

my knockr is base on the header temperature, when it just reach 175, which the oil temp turns to "normal" the car will add 1 to 2, sometimes 3 degree of timing. Things start to go to shit starting at 215 header temp, which it will start pulling 2-4 degrees of timing.

The lambda 1 and 2 are all fine, 1 in regular driving, at 0.78 at WOT, fuel pump duty cycle at 50 (normally at 30) At this point I am sure that it is the tune instead of false knock, but it is a one tune fits all procharger tune, I have no ground to complain, and they won't give you the time of day to really find out what's going on with your car because their kits sells like hot cake anyways

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Thanks for the info. So I've seen plenty of posts of guys suggesting the 170 deg thermostat. Wondering if it has more of an impact on knock than I gave it credit for. The last tune that was put on the car by the local guy would cause the car to make audible knocking when pulling up the driveway into the garage, where the car was at an incline at a dead stop. It was on the hottest days we had so far this spring (only 80 deg so not really all that hot outside), but the head temps were at 215-220. I reverted back to a previous tune that didn't do this, so it only happened twice. But I did order one of the 170 deg thermostats. Can't hurt to install it I suppose. Just didn't expect it to be such a fine line of knocking because of a 5-10 degree difference in engine temps.

Anyone else care to comment on this. Is it just a given to go with a 170 stat for this problem I'm having?

ProChargerTECH said:

Heck just from tank to tank of fuel you can get a 1-4 degree swing in timing. And not everyone is going to have a tune for every different tank of gas they get.

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so true. just to update... On another tank of 93 gas recently, i'm seeing -4 being added under light throttle and 0 when crusing and -kr wot varying from -1 to -3 ish. so fuel quality definitely changes.

And, I just added a can of octanium to current tank full and she's pretty much pegged at -4 all the time.

Bartly said:

Anyone else care to comment on this. Is it just a given to go with a 170 stat for this problem I'm having?

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I'm not sure about the relationship between knock and temp, but I can tell you that with my 170 degree second gen reische, cruising yesterday on a 4.5 hour trip in 90 degree weather, ECT stayed right around 185 with CHT at 196. in slow traffic, ECT would go to 205-207 with CHT 215-220.

From what I understand the difference between 170 and factory is like 15 degrees, and it just let the coolant flow at that set point temperature.

When the car temp is consistently exceed that the coolant just recirculate the whole time anyways, so getting that thermostat change might make your car running cooler for a bit longer, but please report back to see if it'll help so I can get the same one too

Not to highjack this thread, but since the datalogging guys are already looking: I am running a beefcake special w 3.6 pulley and SW long tubes, no cats. I have run about 2 tanks of 100 octane on a 93 tune. With winter 93 and a can of Torco, I would only see about 15 degrees timing advance. Now with the 100 octane, I have only been about to get 16.75*. This is with -5* knock readings flat throughout full throttle. I thought it would at least show 18*. I can't get the file to upload. I would be willing to pm the log to anyone interested.

212 said:

Not to highjack this thread, but since the datalogging guys are already looking: I am running a beefcake special w 3.6 pulley and SW long tubes, no cats. I have run about 2 tanks of 100 octane on a 93 tune. With winter 93 and a can of Torco, I would only see about 15 degrees timing advance. Now with the 100 octane, I have only been about to get 16.75*. This is with -5* knock readings flat throughout full throttle. I thought it would at least show 18*. I can't get the file to upload. I would be willing to pm the log to anyone interested.

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Sounds more like a tune limitation than a knock issue. I am assuming they tuned you for 93 and set a limit on the amount of timing the car would see. So irrespective of the gas you used you wouldn't see a timing increase.

Most tuners will do a different map for 100 or 93+ torco. There is safety in limiting the amount of timing you will see in the various maps vs. allowing knock sensors to control it all.

What are you seeing on straight 93? Bet it's the same as 100.

My 2c..

This is a Lund tune and it was stated that it would add timing if the knock sensors were ok with fuel etc...