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Sound tube delete

mustangv6magn

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I make all my runs naked. Saves a couple more pounds and .00000000000000002 off my ET. ;)
This and top comment made me lol. hmm maybe now i should lose 20lbs that should shave off a second or two.
 

vernonator

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10mm deep socket, left handed rubberrized glove (latex, gardening, dishwashing all work) and Kung fu grip/old man strength and you're looking at 3 minutes to get it off. Maybe 4 minutes if you have to break it free with open ended wrench.

Firewall and intake plugs can be sourced at Ace for less than $5.
I did not even bother with the bolt, took off the front 2/3's, got a good grip on the remaining section and gave a sharp tug...pop...off it came (I did take off the bolts for my strut brace and swing it out of the way). Worst part was getting my hand back there to put in the plug.
 

Shouldhavegotthegt

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I did not even bother with the bolt, took off the front 2/3's, got a good grip on the remaining section and gave a sharp tug...pop...off it came (I did take off the bolts for my strut brace and swing it out of the way). Worst part was getting my hand back there to put in the plug.
The lines from the brake reservoir is held in place with these rubber grommets. You can slip them out and have way more space to get your hand back there. They just pop out and push them back when your done. I'm 6' and 200lbs so I've got decent sized hands and I had no problem getting back there. I could push the plug flush completely.
 

RitzGT

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The lines from the brake reservoir is held in place with these rubber grommets. You can slip them out and have way more space to get your hand back there. They just pop out and push them back when your done. I'm 6' and 200lbs so I've got decent sized hands and I had no problem getting back there. I could push the plug flush completely.
I'm a 6 footer too and I guess I have big hands (lol). Dunno how you guys are squeezing in that tiny space to get at the 10mm nut and then put the plug in.

I find the idea of intentionally piping engine noise into the cabin to be...well....idiotic. I guess if I was a teenage boy it would be amusing for a little while. :)

Best,
 

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lugz

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Just did this job with JLT intake install. Ho-lee-fuk. I got it about halfway off from the underside. Don't do that. After reading this thread, sure enough I could get it from the top side and didn't even need to move the strut tower brace. (long arms) But damn. The engineer who decided to put a 2" stud there needs to be kicked right in the junk.

Ended up using a stubby 3/8 wratchet with a 10mm deep. Could barely snake it on there between the head. What a PITA.

BTW, the plug JLT includes with their kit is a whopping 1.25". Do the math - it's over 31mm. Getting that mofo in the hole was almost as bad as getting out the 10mm. Need a drink...
 

MagneticGT

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Anyone have the torque specs for the strut tower brace nuts? Also, does the positive battery cable have to be disconnected in order to free the brace from the threaded studs on the passenger side? Sheesh! What a pain in the ass.
 

NCFlyer

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Anyone have the torque specs for the strut tower brace nuts? Also, does the positive battery cable have to be disconnected in order to free the brace from the threaded studs on the passenger side? Sheesh! What a pain in the ass.
Per the Ford Racing Installation guide:
Install the strut tower cross brace with new nuts. Torque: 41 lb.ft (55 Nm)
I removed mine + but did not pull wipers. Took about an hour when taking it slow and easy.
 

lugz

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FYI, I didn't need to remove the strut tower brace to get to the 10mm nut. Long arms help for sure.
 

WildHorse

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I just put a short 10mm combination ratcheting wrench on the nut.. took like 2 mins to remove.
 

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MagneticGT

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Did you have to remove the drivers side coil cover, strut tower brace, and/or K brace in order to reach down along the firewall?

With these things in the way, I can't seem to get my short 10mm combination ratcheting wrench anywhere near that nut. :frusty:

I just put a short 10mm combination ratcheting wrench on the nut.. took like 2 mins to remove.
 

JCFoster

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Did you have to remove the drivers side coil cover, strut tower brace, and/or K brace in order to reach down along the firewall?

With these things in the way, I can't seem to get my short 10mm combination ratcheting wrench anywhere near that nut. :frusty:
I couldn't either and pulled it off the bolt. There's a rubber grommet that the bolt goes through and the grommet holds on to the plastic housing of the sound tube. I had just worked it off the grommet with some gentle pulling and twisting.
 

rocknstang

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I just removed my sound tube last night and there was no nut holding it on at the firewall. Came off without even trying once I unclipped it. Should I start looking around for other missing nuts and bolts? :confused:
 

jayvajj

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I didn't remove anything either, just gave mine a good tug and it came off rather easily. I used a steel rod about 1/2" in diameter to coerce the plug in.

Maybe I'm old but that annoying noise out of the cabin is gone.
 

csmaan12

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Like everyone else, I just beat up my hands trying to get a socket or wrench on the damn 10mm nut. Eventually I got pissed so I just ripped out the sound tube with some force and threw it in the trash.
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