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Cobra Jet IM drivability?

Lonmon

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I am hoping that some of the guys running the CJ IM can chime in and give some honest feedback on the drivability of this set up.

I have had the gt350 IM for a season and love the stock like drivability on the stock TB with it. For me the 350 TB did not make any real gain on the dyno and was not worth the head ache of trying to get the tune perfect for cold temp start up or partial throttle. That being said the CJ also seems to offer the most HP with little loss down low if any. The fastest NA cars are usually sporting a CJ and dyno numbers seem to back this up.

For me the main thing holding me up from making the switch comes down to the drivability. If most of the CJ guys say Lund can make the car run like stock with the IM and large TB then I will probably do it. If the consensus is that there is cold weather issues with idle, start up, or partial throttle surging even intermittently then I would leave it for the race cars or weekend warriors looking for every last hp (drivability be damned)!

I really would like to see 500whp NA. Cams are on my list and will get me close, but another 10-15whp up top would certainly get it done. It looks like many of the 11-14 guys are breaking the 500whp barrier using the CJ and cams so I know it is possible. I just have not heard any talk about how they drive good or bad. What do people know or have heard from reliable sources?
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Jn2

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For me the main thing holding me up from making the switch comes down to the drivability. If most of the CJ guys say Lund can make the car run like stock with the IM and large TB then I will probably do it. If the consensus is that there is cold weather issues with idle, start up, or partial throttle surging even intermittently then I would leave it for the race cars or weekend warriors looking for every last hp (drivability be damned)!
CJ manifolds drive like stock if tuned correctly(IMRC will be disabled to your VCT settings need to be set up to run like if they are in the always open position). Throttle surge can be tuned to stock driving characteristics(requires a not of datalogging for not-so common throttle bodies(KenneBell, Whipple, L&M), but GT500/CJ65/Mono should be much easier to tune to stock like driving. You also should not have any cold start issues, cold driving, or parking lot speed(low throttle low speed) issues...your tuner might raise your idle though, I have mine to idle at 850 vs the stock 650
 

dubster99

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I have the boss intake and lund tune, zero issues there. A few guys on here have the CJ and zero issues there as well.
 
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Lonmon

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Thanks for the responses! Hoping to get at least a few testimonials directly from people who have been running the CJ setup for at least a few months using Lund or another reputable tuner.
 

Burnin4

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I have the boss intake and lund tune, zero issues there. A few guys on here have the CJ and zero issues there as well.
What modifications are required for using a Boss IM? Hood modification? Thank you!
 

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Lonmon

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From everything I have seen you have to trim the back of the hood or drop the engine a 1/2 inch or so with adjustable/lowering engine mounts for the boss or CJ mani's.
 

Kahboom

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Gibbo205

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Drive ability mainly comes down to throttle body and which tuner has the most experience with which throttle body. The Intake manifold is the smaller equation, as your using GT500 TB the drive ability should be absolute superb and good as stock if not better tuned. :)
 

Kahboom

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from what I've read on multiple forums about Cobra Jets the mono blade throttle body is the one that's a little harder to tune especially for idle. seen a lot of people with good success with the twin 65 or twin 67 throttle bodies.
 

09jsw

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Thanks for the responses! Hoping to get at least a few testimonials directly from people who have been running the CJ setup for at least a few months using Lund or another reputable tuner.
you are getting one installed and tuned at Rev soon ?
 

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Jn2

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from what I've read on multiple forums about Cobra Jets the mono blade throttle body is the one that's a little harder to tune especially for idle. seen a lot of people with good success with the twin 65 or twin 67 throttle bodies.
Tuning for the most common TB's are pretty straight forward, most tuner, especially Lund, would already have a base line for them as well. I tried to run a L&M twin 66 on mine and ran into a lot of error related to torque/inverse tables. Tuning those tables takes time and datalogs, but can be done. To get a car running quicker with less time a common TB like twin 60/65/67 or mono blade should be used.
 

Dominant1

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you are getting one installed and tuned at Rev soon ?
You and i both know that nothing happens soon at rev auto...they take their time!
 

Terminator2

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I'll be able to tell you soon I'm preparing my car for a CJ swap but in the mean time I've got my IMRCs deleted in my tune so I've been driving without them for a couple weeks now. I'm still working on the cam angles mostly on low rpm tip in to help torque response.
Drivability wise the OEM GT500 throttle body (it's a twin 62mm) will likely drive the nicest and it saves you about $500 over the FRPP Twin 65mm throttle body or the SCJ monoblade. I got my throttle body new on eBay for $95 shipped. AM has the CJ for $799 with forum discount. I'm modding my PMAS to fit the CJ with a 5" silicone 90 and a piece of 5" aluminum IC piping with a 45* bend. $66 total to mod it to fit. Overall cost is less than a GT350 manifold and throttle body.
 

Terminator2

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From everything I have seen you have to trim the back of the hood or drop the engine a 1/2 inch or so with adjustable/lowering engine mounts for the boss or CJ mani's.
I'm cutting my hood and pulling the hood liner. It will rub the liner from pics I've seen it just clears without it.
 
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Lonmon

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you are getting one installed and tuned at Rev soon ?
Gonna research a good bit before I make the switch. I would probably get the tune from Lund as it is much quicker and cheaper. If you send them plenty of logs they can definitely get it right. It takes a month or so to get an appointment at Rev, costs quite a bit, and takes them a week to tune the car for drivability (in between working on their important projects). They are also about 40 minutes from my work and over an hour from where I live. I tried them and did see better power and torque then my Lund tune but I believe with some logs sent to Lund they could have done the same. Some annoying drivability issues with my Rev tune also. I just can't wait a month to get an appointment to wait another week for them to try and straighten it out even if its free. Just getting someone on the phone can take several days from my experience. With Lund I can send an e-mail and get a revision sent by the next day. If I can pick up 15whp up top with stock like drivability with a swap from gt350 IM to CJ IM then my setup will be for sale. If it looks like I will only see a few hp or there is any common drivability issues with the CJ setup even with a good tuner then I will keep what I have.
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