Thinking of switching whipple to turbo, please discuss

Hello all,

I have a 10 rib whipple setup making low 900rwhp on E85. My dyno graphs show around 6200 rpm it hits a wall, stops making power.

I hear about the throttle body upgrade, and rotor pack upgrade, but no clue what power numbers that would make, or cost. My goal is to hit 1000rwhp, and learn how to use it to put it to the ground and get it down the track safely.


I don't know why, but my car doesn't feel fast to me when I drive it. I'm sure my Nitto Invo's are part of that, but it doesn't give me G-forces. I'm wondering if thats also due to the instant hit of power, and wondering if I go turbo, it will be easier to launch at the track, as well as "feel" faster as the power climbs giving more of a roller coaster type feel.

If I sell the whipple 10 rib stage 2 tuner kit, what would be a fair price?

Also, I know NOTHING about turbos. Im eyeing the LPF and also Boost Works kits for the price, but don't truly know the pros/cons of each kit or if I should look at a different kit for the money? I would want a kit that has EVERY piece needed, as well as direct fit. No customization after I buy a "kit" I want plug and play. If I ultimately switch I don't want to be changing it up down the road. I already switched from roush to whipple, and if I switch again don't want to buy another kit after this one.

Can anyone please provide some advice here? Also if your interested in making offers on the whipple kit feel free to PM me.

Thanks for your time.

Why does whipple not sell a 3.4 yet??

SolarFlare said:

Why does whipple not sell a 3.4 yet??

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There is a 4.5 in the works but the concern is drivability and snapping the crank. Likely what the new throttle body is for.

Whipple does have a new rotor pack dubbed gen 4. It's on their website under 2018 mustang. No specs on gains yet.

Dood, may be worth the call to Whipple.

Have you run what you have yet?

Did you ever do the headwork? I thought you said you were going to in another thread. Like J said, call whipple maybe they will let you try out that gen 4 rotor pack or give you another option. If all else fails hit it with a 100 shot.

F1scamp said:

Have you run what you have yet?

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Yes =/ Still trying to learn the car. Best so far is 10.8@137 1.9 60 ft. Had to hit the brakes due to persons hood in other lane flying off almost hit me.

Its very tough to launch.

SolarFlare said:

Did you ever do the headwork? I thought you said you were going to in another thread. Like J said, call whipple maybe they will let you try out that gen 4 rotor pack or give you another option. If all else fails hit it with a 100 shot.

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I contemplated it heavily, but debating where to put my money. I really like the thought of turbo boost controller turn boost up and down at will without swapping pullies.

I've spoken to Mike Malicoat many times, and he was saying I would have to sell my head unit and get a new head unit. I never did get a price, but can only imagine that would be 5,000 plus and I'd have to find someone that wants to buy a solo head unit. I have been calling and emailing often, but he said he's waiting on the info. I stopped bothering him, and just hoping he will reach out sooner than later.

If I recall you have a 6060 in that car. What's the rear gearing ? To get the most out of it you will need to put it on a big bias tire and do some suspension mods. My advice is try the tire and some suspension before going turbo. Don't get too caught up chasing dyno numbers because it's never enough anyway. Also an auto would be way easier to go fast with at the track.

2-tone said:

If I recall you have a 6060 in that car. What's the rear gearing ? To get the most out of it you will need to put it on a big bias tire and do some suspension mods. My advice is try the tire and some suspension before going turbo. Don't get too caught up chasing dyno numbers because it's never enough anyway. Also an auto would be way easier to go fast with at the track.

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I have slicks, skinnies, viking shocks, 3.55 rear gear vertical links, all the stop the hop stuff. No wheel hop, just when traction lets go it just spins.

I know auto would be easier to go fast. I've contemplated buying a auto coupe, swap motors sell my vert, but I KNOW I would miss the vert, and would surely miss the manual. AND would lose a ton of money in the process of selling the vert. So not sure what to do there. I have soul searched a bit on this.

We have kits in stock. Let me know if we can help.

Slicks should get you better than a 1.9 60? What were you launching at??

With a hurt clutch I was able to manage a 1.49, clutch dump at 4500 on the 2-step.

jhatley7 said:

Slicks should get you better than a 1.9 60? What were you launching at??

With a hurt clutch I was able to manage a 1.49, clutch dump at 4500 on the 2-step.

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I have a 2 step set at 3500. If I launch much higher, it was wanting to spin.

I need to learn what the sweet spot is.

Travis@boostworks said:

We have kits in stock. Let me know if we can help.

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Thanks Travis! I messaged ya. VERY interested. Just want to know the real difference between your 6,000 kits and your 9,000. Is your kit direct fit? I won't have to customize a bunch of stuff? Should be able to install myself? There's TONS I don't know and want to buy intelligently/research, so trying to pick everyone's brains before I jump.

doodguy said:

I have a 2 step set at 3500. If I launch much higher, it was wanting to spin.

I need to learn what the sweet spot is.

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Lower your psi. Last time out I ran 12.5 in the rear and 55 up front. Our setups were very close, you have a mid to high 9 second car. My best was a 10.6 @ 117 with the clutch blowing out on the 3-4 shift.

doodguy said:

I have slicks, skinnies, viking shocks, 3.55 rear gear vertical links, all the stop the hop stuff. No wheel hop, just when traction lets go it just spins.

I know auto would be easier to go fast. I've contemplated buying a auto coupe, swap motors sell my vert, but I KNOW I would miss the vert, and would surely miss the manual. AND would lose a ton of money in the process of selling the vert. So not sure what to do there. I have soul searched a bit on this.

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What size slick ? If you are on a 28 a 3.55 isn't near enough gear imo. Also what about front suspension ? Consider some coil overs and removing the front sway bar.