mtb5020
Car RamRod
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2015
- Threads
- 21
- Messages
- 158
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- Mean Streets of Philly
- First Name
- Mike
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Mustang GT PP
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi All,
Spent the weekend dropping the IRS and installing these two sets of solid bushings for the diff and IRS mounts. In terms of difficulty, I would rate this less difficult than the LCA bearing install, but takes a significant amount of time. Took two pairs of hands 10 hours and a case of Coors to complete (the Coors may have increased the time needed. And by "may have," I mean "definitely.") Also took this opportunity to adjust the camber to a more acceptable amount after lowering the car months ago.
Except for the sawzall business, the install is generally pain free. Due to the success of the last post using BMR's install instructions, I am going to use that format again. Keep in mind, the install is slightly different for each bushing set so I am going to modify for both. I would NOT recommend doing these separately, may as well do both at once.
BMR’s INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Lift vehicle and safely support with jack stands under the rocker pinch welds.
-No sweat
2. Remove both rear wheels and tires.
-Easy, these nice shiny chrome lugs are no longer shiny nor nice anyways.
3. Use a 15mm wrench to loosen the 4 exhaust bolts up by the transmission. Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the 6 exhaust bolts at the rear. Remove the exhaust.
-Not too bad, exhaust fell on me after trying to shimy the H-pipe from the stock sleeves. Help suddenly enlisted.
4. Mark the driveshaft with a permanent marker or grease pencil to maintain the proper index for reinstallation. Now remove the 6 bolts on the rear of the driveshaft using a 10mm socket.
-Mine was already marked, these bolts are TIGHT. Plus, it’s a small socket which means small wrench which means pain in the palm.
5. Using a 15mm socket, remove the two lower bolts on each shock.
-Easy
6. Disconnect the differential vent tube.
-This isn’t too bad but it is important to mention there is a clip on the IRS that needs to be slid off the IRS before dropping it. It is a zip tie style afterthought of a clip, and breaks easily. Mine popped off when lowering the IRS because I didn’t know it was there.
7. Loosen the emergency brake cable using a 10mm wrench or socket.
-Done, remove ABS line from this bracket to get easier access to this bolt.
8. Remove the two caliper bolts per side using a 14mm socket. Hang the caliper in the wheel well using a piece of wire or zip tie.
-I remember a socket size being wrong, I believe it is this one. It’s bigger, maybe 18mm?. I removed the ABS line before hanging the caliper on the upper shock mount, there’s plenty of space. I recommend loosening the CV nuts before removing the brakes.
9. Unbolt the ABS line on each side using an 8mm socket.
-No problem
10. You are now ready to lower the cradle assembly. Support the cradle assembly with the hydraulic jack or a transmission jack. Remove the (4) front cradle support bolts shown in IMAGE 5 using a 13mm socket. Loosen the 4 main cradle bolts using a 21mm socket.
-These are the last remaining bolts holding the IRS to the car. We placed the jack under the diff and it held well. Lowered easily and we pulled it right out. Up until this point, no issues, no blood, little sweat and a half tear lost on the diff vent tube clip. Only took about an hour and a half to drop the IRS. Holy shit, we will get this done in 4 hours!!
11. Slowly lower the cradle to the floor.
-Hydraulic jack makes it easy. Watch the toe links, they dragged across the garage floor and created all sorts of scratches and threatened to pitch the whole IRS off the jack. Zip tie them to the bushing if removed before lowering.
12. Once the cradle assembly is on the floor the first step is to remove the CV shafts. To remove the CV shafts, it is necessary to remove all of the suspension links from the spindle. Start with the vertical links. Using an 18mm wrench for the lower bolt, disconnect the vertical link from the spindle.
-We loosened or removed all of these before lowering the IRS cradle, saved us time.
13. Now move on to the lower control arm and sway bar end link. Remove the lower control arm bolt using a 21mm wrench. Use an 18mm wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench to remove the sway bar end link. The 6mm Allen wrench will keep the shaft from turning while you remove the 18mm nut.
-You will need a ratchet wrench to make this easy, otherwise be prepared to spend some time with a fixed wrench. Again all of this was accomplished while the IRS was still on the car allowing for better leverage.
14. Use an 18mm socket to remove the outer bolt on the toe rod.
-If removed before lowering the cradle, zip tie it to something out of the way.
15. Remove the main CV nut on the outer section of the CV shaft. Once this nut is removed, pull the entire hub/rotor/CV assembly out of the rear end.
-Issue here as we did not loosen this nut before taking off the brakes. This required a bit of thought to remove. 2 Coors needed. We lodged a pry bar in-between the wheel bolts to stabilize the CV nut. This was a bit of a pain as we didn’t want to roll wheel bolt threads or damage anything else with a slip.
16. Duplicate steps 12-15 for the other side.
-Done before lowering.
17. Now you should be ready to remove the differential. Using an 18mm wrench or socket, remove the 4 bolts on the differential. Once removed, pull the differential out of the cradle.
-Again, another easy step. This is turning out to be the easiest project of all time with the most amount of instructions.
18. The factory differential bushings are pressed in. The simplest way to remove these bushings is with a Sawzall. Force the blade of the Sawzall through the void of the bushing until it goes all the way through. Cut outward through the outer steel sleeve. It is not necessary to cut completely through the sleeve, a small slit in the outer sleeve will relieve enough tension to knock the bushing out.
-Step 18, I HATE you. We tried everything to press, pull, drill, and cut out these bushings. After 8 beers, ounces of sweat in a 45* garage, and 2 cigars we finally had the best procedure for cutting these out. Step 1, use a wood blade for the sawzall and cut around the metal centers in the bushings. Step 2, replace the wood blade with a bi-metal blade and cut the metal shroud around the rubber. Be VERY careful when cutting these. With all the rubber around, it is tough to see/tell when the bushing has been cut thru and you’ve entered the IRS metal. We found a different sound could be heard. Although we couldn’t hear much as our ears were ringing significantly after cutting out all 8 of these. (plus two for the toe link bushing replacements). Most of the time was lost here. 6 hours gone and 6 beers remaining in the case. Has to get better from here, right?
19. Once the tension is relieved, knock the bushing out with a large hammer.
-Easy and highly satisfying after my soul was removed by vibration from my body during sawzalling.
20. Your BMR aluminum differential bushings should be installed with the flange side on the inside.
-Evidently I missed this notice as I e-mailed Kelly for help. Probably should have perused the directions before spending 6 hours wrenching and 10 beers deep…
Using a large rubber mallet or preferably a heavy dead blow hammer, knock in all (4) BMR aluminum bushings into the cradle. To avoid rattling, BMR machines their bushings on the tighter side of the scale. Be aware that it takes a significant amount of force to fully seat the bushings into the cradle.
-BMR bushings all fit tight, but went in smoothly. The FRPP toe link bearings DID NOT go in easy… I had to machine out 0.3 mm to make them fit and put the bearings in the freezer.
21. Re-install the differential into the cradle using the BMR supplied bolts, nuts, and washers. Use the 14mm x 100mm bolts and washers for the rear bushings. Use the 14mm x 120mm bolts and nuts on the front bushings with a washer on both sides of the bushing. NOTE: It is important to thread the rear bolts in first before knocking the fronts in. This will prevent ruining the threads in the aluminum differential cover.
-At this point we were wasted. Mentally and physically, the stock rubber bushings and sawzall had taken their toll. Massive amounts of time were being spent carefully threading the bolts into the diff. We tried to ignore the caution to put in the rears first. Terrible idea as we almost stripped the diff housing. Follow this step closely or the project will come to a depressing halt.
22. Tighten all hardware to 129 ft/lbs using a 19mm wrench and socket.
-All going back together. No more issues, the beer is refreshing, and the IRS looks solid.
23. Re-install the CV shafts and spindles.
-These are different size, easy to remember which side they go on.
24. Re-install the toe rod bolt and tighten to 129 ft/lbs.
-Did this on car as our bushings were not yet installed and the stock rubber bushings had been removed.
25. Re-install the outer lower control arm bolt and tighten to 203 ft/lbs.
-Easy. Almost done…
26. Connect the sway bar end link and tighten.
-Again with the misery. Should have hit up harbor freight when it was open for a ratchet wrench set…
27. Re-install the upper control arm and tighten to 76 ft/lbs.
-No issue.
28. Re-connect the vertical link to the spindle. Tighten the lower bolt to 129 ft/lbs.
-Easy
29. Lift the cradle back up into the car. Make sure the springs and shocks are aligned properly before tightening the cradle mounting bolts. Refer back to IMAGE 5 and install the front cradle support brackets. Thread the (4) large cradle bolts up into the body but do not tighten yet. Insert the (4) small bolts with the 13mm heads into the front cradle support brackets but do not tighten. Continue lifting the cradle until it starts to lift the vehicle off the stands. Tighten all (4) cradle bolts to 129 ft/lbs. Tighten the (4) smaller bolts to 41 ft/lbs.
-We slid this right back in, no problem at all. Half tightened the 4 main IRS bolts and supports then put the springs in.
30. Insert the (4) lower shock bolts and tighten to 35 ft/lbs.
-Tightened these and the 4 main IRS bolts without issue. Except for the 130 ft/lbs requirement. After 9 hours of wrenching, this leverage and force doesn’t come easy.
31. Re-connect the ABS line and emergency cable brackets and tighten the bolts.
-easy
32. Re-connect the calipers and tighten the bolts.
-No. No way. Who put the e-brake on during the removal? Oh wait, I did thinking we could lock the rotors in place to loosen the CV nut. After removing the brakes. Shit. Now there we have to compress the brakes. No problem, I’ll just take out my handy caliper compressor. And here came the pain. While squeezing the brake compressor (way past the force that’s normally needed) the handle breaks and I pinch my palm in the device. Full force. Luckily, the beers numbed the initial pain and I used another as an ice pack. Unfortunately, right hand out of commission and the brakes can’t be put back on. It’s late, screw it, rear pads out, calipers on, everything tightened. Who needs rear brakes anyways? Note: the rears need the spinning compressor as the e-brake is attached to these brakes. Learn something new everyday! Another few bills dropped at Pep Boys.
33. Re-connect the driveshaft and tighten the 6 bolts to 41 ft/lbs.
-No right hand, no right hand man. He quit to watch the McGreggor fight. Nothing like going south paw on the DS with the tiny, evil wrench from before.
34. Re-connect the differential vent tube.
-Done, support clip epoxy welded to the frame. Because I wanted to catch the McGreggor fight and there were only 3 cards left. Plus, those UFC chicks were super tight. That was the real motivation to get inside.
35. Install the wheels/tires and lower vehicle.
-Done, dropped the car and ran inside just in time to watch two chicks who could ruin me go at each other for 20 minutes. No rear brakes and no toe link bushings. They would have to wait in the freezer until the following day.
All in all, not bad. Time and patience is needed, but not many specialty tools. I think anyone can do this as we did, in a garage, on jack stands, and a case of beer. A special thanks to Kelly @BMRTech for returning my barely understandable e-mail for help. BMR makes great products; they all fit and were exactly as described. The only parts we couldn’t get in were the FRPP parts. This makes me very confident and glad to have purchased BMR products for the IRS mounts and diff bushings. Thanks again BMR. Now hurry up with the front suspension brace!
Also, if anyone is still reading this, I overzealously ground one of the toe link bushings down too much and now it is loose. Any suggestions? Shims? Weld the bearing to the mount? I have to take it in for an alignment anyways, so any professional operations can be ordered, opinions valued.
Pictures:
1. IRS coming out soon. Optimism and patience abound.
2. No IRS in car. So empty.
3. IRS on garage floor.
4. IRS without diff and halfshafts.
5. Collection of Parts! Halfshafts are different sizes…
6. Drill and sawzall method employed. Stock bushing hacked to pieces. Next step, cut thru other shell then hammer out.
7. This is what the stock diff bushings look like. I wonder if those locating pins are important and why they are not included on the BMR ones?
8. Stock bushings completely removed.
9. BMR bushings slid in.
10. Bottom view of BMR bushings.
11. Diff installed into new BMR homes. Lips in!
12. IRS on jack ready to be re-installed. Patience 0. Skill remaining: 1. Fight starting in 30 minutes…
13. Size mount hole.
14. Lunch break!
15. Size FRPP bearing.
16. Some idiot can’t back in all the way. Looks like the 32* weather will continue to blow right in! YEAH!
17. Are we done yet? I don’t want to watch you work on a car all day, again...
Sorry for the low quality pictures, I forgot my good camera. Cellphone camera FTW.
Spent the weekend dropping the IRS and installing these two sets of solid bushings for the diff and IRS mounts. In terms of difficulty, I would rate this less difficult than the LCA bearing install, but takes a significant amount of time. Took two pairs of hands 10 hours and a case of Coors to complete (the Coors may have increased the time needed. And by "may have," I mean "definitely.") Also took this opportunity to adjust the camber to a more acceptable amount after lowering the car months ago.
Except for the sawzall business, the install is generally pain free. Due to the success of the last post using BMR's install instructions, I am going to use that format again. Keep in mind, the install is slightly different for each bushing set so I am going to modify for both. I would NOT recommend doing these separately, may as well do both at once.
BMR’s INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Lift vehicle and safely support with jack stands under the rocker pinch welds.
-No sweat
2. Remove both rear wheels and tires.
-Easy, these nice shiny chrome lugs are no longer shiny nor nice anyways.
3. Use a 15mm wrench to loosen the 4 exhaust bolts up by the transmission. Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the 6 exhaust bolts at the rear. Remove the exhaust.
-Not too bad, exhaust fell on me after trying to shimy the H-pipe from the stock sleeves. Help suddenly enlisted.
4. Mark the driveshaft with a permanent marker or grease pencil to maintain the proper index for reinstallation. Now remove the 6 bolts on the rear of the driveshaft using a 10mm socket.
-Mine was already marked, these bolts are TIGHT. Plus, it’s a small socket which means small wrench which means pain in the palm.
5. Using a 15mm socket, remove the two lower bolts on each shock.
-Easy
6. Disconnect the differential vent tube.
-This isn’t too bad but it is important to mention there is a clip on the IRS that needs to be slid off the IRS before dropping it. It is a zip tie style afterthought of a clip, and breaks easily. Mine popped off when lowering the IRS because I didn’t know it was there.
7. Loosen the emergency brake cable using a 10mm wrench or socket.
-Done, remove ABS line from this bracket to get easier access to this bolt.
8. Remove the two caliper bolts per side using a 14mm socket. Hang the caliper in the wheel well using a piece of wire or zip tie.
-I remember a socket size being wrong, I believe it is this one. It’s bigger, maybe 18mm?. I removed the ABS line before hanging the caliper on the upper shock mount, there’s plenty of space. I recommend loosening the CV nuts before removing the brakes.
9. Unbolt the ABS line on each side using an 8mm socket.
-No problem
10. You are now ready to lower the cradle assembly. Support the cradle assembly with the hydraulic jack or a transmission jack. Remove the (4) front cradle support bolts shown in IMAGE 5 using a 13mm socket. Loosen the 4 main cradle bolts using a 21mm socket.
-These are the last remaining bolts holding the IRS to the car. We placed the jack under the diff and it held well. Lowered easily and we pulled it right out. Up until this point, no issues, no blood, little sweat and a half tear lost on the diff vent tube clip. Only took about an hour and a half to drop the IRS. Holy shit, we will get this done in 4 hours!!
11. Slowly lower the cradle to the floor.
-Hydraulic jack makes it easy. Watch the toe links, they dragged across the garage floor and created all sorts of scratches and threatened to pitch the whole IRS off the jack. Zip tie them to the bushing if removed before lowering.
12. Once the cradle assembly is on the floor the first step is to remove the CV shafts. To remove the CV shafts, it is necessary to remove all of the suspension links from the spindle. Start with the vertical links. Using an 18mm wrench for the lower bolt, disconnect the vertical link from the spindle.
-We loosened or removed all of these before lowering the IRS cradle, saved us time.
13. Now move on to the lower control arm and sway bar end link. Remove the lower control arm bolt using a 21mm wrench. Use an 18mm wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench to remove the sway bar end link. The 6mm Allen wrench will keep the shaft from turning while you remove the 18mm nut.
-You will need a ratchet wrench to make this easy, otherwise be prepared to spend some time with a fixed wrench. Again all of this was accomplished while the IRS was still on the car allowing for better leverage.
14. Use an 18mm socket to remove the outer bolt on the toe rod.
-If removed before lowering the cradle, zip tie it to something out of the way.
15. Remove the main CV nut on the outer section of the CV shaft. Once this nut is removed, pull the entire hub/rotor/CV assembly out of the rear end.
-Issue here as we did not loosen this nut before taking off the brakes. This required a bit of thought to remove. 2 Coors needed. We lodged a pry bar in-between the wheel bolts to stabilize the CV nut. This was a bit of a pain as we didn’t want to roll wheel bolt threads or damage anything else with a slip.
16. Duplicate steps 12-15 for the other side.
-Done before lowering.
17. Now you should be ready to remove the differential. Using an 18mm wrench or socket, remove the 4 bolts on the differential. Once removed, pull the differential out of the cradle.
-Again, another easy step. This is turning out to be the easiest project of all time with the most amount of instructions.
18. The factory differential bushings are pressed in. The simplest way to remove these bushings is with a Sawzall. Force the blade of the Sawzall through the void of the bushing until it goes all the way through. Cut outward through the outer steel sleeve. It is not necessary to cut completely through the sleeve, a small slit in the outer sleeve will relieve enough tension to knock the bushing out.
-Step 18, I HATE you. We tried everything to press, pull, drill, and cut out these bushings. After 8 beers, ounces of sweat in a 45* garage, and 2 cigars we finally had the best procedure for cutting these out. Step 1, use a wood blade for the sawzall and cut around the metal centers in the bushings. Step 2, replace the wood blade with a bi-metal blade and cut the metal shroud around the rubber. Be VERY careful when cutting these. With all the rubber around, it is tough to see/tell when the bushing has been cut thru and you’ve entered the IRS metal. We found a different sound could be heard. Although we couldn’t hear much as our ears were ringing significantly after cutting out all 8 of these. (plus two for the toe link bushing replacements). Most of the time was lost here. 6 hours gone and 6 beers remaining in the case. Has to get better from here, right?
19. Once the tension is relieved, knock the bushing out with a large hammer.
-Easy and highly satisfying after my soul was removed by vibration from my body during sawzalling.
20. Your BMR aluminum differential bushings should be installed with the flange side on the inside.
-Evidently I missed this notice as I e-mailed Kelly for help. Probably should have perused the directions before spending 6 hours wrenching and 10 beers deep…
Using a large rubber mallet or preferably a heavy dead blow hammer, knock in all (4) BMR aluminum bushings into the cradle. To avoid rattling, BMR machines their bushings on the tighter side of the scale. Be aware that it takes a significant amount of force to fully seat the bushings into the cradle.
-BMR bushings all fit tight, but went in smoothly. The FRPP toe link bearings DID NOT go in easy… I had to machine out 0.3 mm to make them fit and put the bearings in the freezer.
21. Re-install the differential into the cradle using the BMR supplied bolts, nuts, and washers. Use the 14mm x 100mm bolts and washers for the rear bushings. Use the 14mm x 120mm bolts and nuts on the front bushings with a washer on both sides of the bushing. NOTE: It is important to thread the rear bolts in first before knocking the fronts in. This will prevent ruining the threads in the aluminum differential cover.
-At this point we were wasted. Mentally and physically, the stock rubber bushings and sawzall had taken their toll. Massive amounts of time were being spent carefully threading the bolts into the diff. We tried to ignore the caution to put in the rears first. Terrible idea as we almost stripped the diff housing. Follow this step closely or the project will come to a depressing halt.
22. Tighten all hardware to 129 ft/lbs using a 19mm wrench and socket.
-All going back together. No more issues, the beer is refreshing, and the IRS looks solid.
23. Re-install the CV shafts and spindles.
-These are different size, easy to remember which side they go on.
24. Re-install the toe rod bolt and tighten to 129 ft/lbs.
-Did this on car as our bushings were not yet installed and the stock rubber bushings had been removed.
25. Re-install the outer lower control arm bolt and tighten to 203 ft/lbs.
-Easy. Almost done…
26. Connect the sway bar end link and tighten.
-Again with the misery. Should have hit up harbor freight when it was open for a ratchet wrench set…
27. Re-install the upper control arm and tighten to 76 ft/lbs.
-No issue.
28. Re-connect the vertical link to the spindle. Tighten the lower bolt to 129 ft/lbs.
-Easy
29. Lift the cradle back up into the car. Make sure the springs and shocks are aligned properly before tightening the cradle mounting bolts. Refer back to IMAGE 5 and install the front cradle support brackets. Thread the (4) large cradle bolts up into the body but do not tighten yet. Insert the (4) small bolts with the 13mm heads into the front cradle support brackets but do not tighten. Continue lifting the cradle until it starts to lift the vehicle off the stands. Tighten all (4) cradle bolts to 129 ft/lbs. Tighten the (4) smaller bolts to 41 ft/lbs.
-We slid this right back in, no problem at all. Half tightened the 4 main IRS bolts and supports then put the springs in.
30. Insert the (4) lower shock bolts and tighten to 35 ft/lbs.
-Tightened these and the 4 main IRS bolts without issue. Except for the 130 ft/lbs requirement. After 9 hours of wrenching, this leverage and force doesn’t come easy.
31. Re-connect the ABS line and emergency cable brackets and tighten the bolts.
-easy
32. Re-connect the calipers and tighten the bolts.
-No. No way. Who put the e-brake on during the removal? Oh wait, I did thinking we could lock the rotors in place to loosen the CV nut. After removing the brakes. Shit. Now there we have to compress the brakes. No problem, I’ll just take out my handy caliper compressor. And here came the pain. While squeezing the brake compressor (way past the force that’s normally needed) the handle breaks and I pinch my palm in the device. Full force. Luckily, the beers numbed the initial pain and I used another as an ice pack. Unfortunately, right hand out of commission and the brakes can’t be put back on. It’s late, screw it, rear pads out, calipers on, everything tightened. Who needs rear brakes anyways? Note: the rears need the spinning compressor as the e-brake is attached to these brakes. Learn something new everyday! Another few bills dropped at Pep Boys.
33. Re-connect the driveshaft and tighten the 6 bolts to 41 ft/lbs.
-No right hand, no right hand man. He quit to watch the McGreggor fight. Nothing like going south paw on the DS with the tiny, evil wrench from before.
34. Re-connect the differential vent tube.
-Done, support clip epoxy welded to the frame. Because I wanted to catch the McGreggor fight and there were only 3 cards left. Plus, those UFC chicks were super tight. That was the real motivation to get inside.
35. Install the wheels/tires and lower vehicle.
-Done, dropped the car and ran inside just in time to watch two chicks who could ruin me go at each other for 20 minutes. No rear brakes and no toe link bushings. They would have to wait in the freezer until the following day.
All in all, not bad. Time and patience is needed, but not many specialty tools. I think anyone can do this as we did, in a garage, on jack stands, and a case of beer. A special thanks to Kelly @BMRTech for returning my barely understandable e-mail for help. BMR makes great products; they all fit and were exactly as described. The only parts we couldn’t get in were the FRPP parts. This makes me very confident and glad to have purchased BMR products for the IRS mounts and diff bushings. Thanks again BMR. Now hurry up with the front suspension brace!
Also, if anyone is still reading this, I overzealously ground one of the toe link bushings down too much and now it is loose. Any suggestions? Shims? Weld the bearing to the mount? I have to take it in for an alignment anyways, so any professional operations can be ordered, opinions valued.
Pictures:
1. IRS coming out soon. Optimism and patience abound.
2. No IRS in car. So empty.
3. IRS on garage floor.
4. IRS without diff and halfshafts.
5. Collection of Parts! Halfshafts are different sizes…
6. Drill and sawzall method employed. Stock bushing hacked to pieces. Next step, cut thru other shell then hammer out.
7. This is what the stock diff bushings look like. I wonder if those locating pins are important and why they are not included on the BMR ones?
8. Stock bushings completely removed.
9. BMR bushings slid in.
10. Bottom view of BMR bushings.
11. Diff installed into new BMR homes. Lips in!
12. IRS on jack ready to be re-installed. Patience 0. Skill remaining: 1. Fight starting in 30 minutes…
13. Size mount hole.
14. Lunch break!
15. Size FRPP bearing.
16. Some idiot can’t back in all the way. Looks like the 32* weather will continue to blow right in! YEAH!
17. Are we done yet? I don’t want to watch you work on a car all day, again...
Sorry for the low quality pictures, I forgot my good camera. Cellphone camera FTW.
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