What is max front camber with plates?

Thanks for posting this, even though it is disappointing to hear. Those are the ballpark numbers that I want to start at, too.

I have the same plates and dampers as you, but will be putting on minimal drop GT350 springs this weekend.

I guess that's one advantage of drop: natural camber increase.

TennTex said:

Noticed this post today. Note that I recently installed Steeda camber plates + Steeda Adjustables (F&R)+ Steeda dual-rate springs (F&R).

Finally got to go get a my track alignment done yesterday, but they could only get -2.1* max with these camber plates. I don't think it was an install error, so not sure what could be the cause. I have a question in with Steeda on this now.

For reference, I was trying to get to -2.5* Front, but my setup guy (a racer himself) was wanting to get me up to -3*. Was able to get -2* in the rear, about the max with factory setup. Also... 1/32" toe-out in front, 1/16" toe-in at rear.

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I have the same exact set up with the dual rate springs and have 3.0 degrees of neg camber. If they are installed correctly it could be hanging up underneath the strut mount slightly, make sure you loosen the bolts sufficiently take the weight of the wheels and move the strut completely inboard as shown in the instructions.

Thanks, Steeda tech

SteedaTech said:

I have the same exact set up with the dual rate springs and have 3.0 degrees of neg camber. If they are installed correctly it could be hanging up underneath the strut mount slightly, make sure you loosen the bolts sufficiently take the weight of the wheels and move the strut completely inboard as shown in the instructions.

Thanks, Steeda tech

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Just had a great chat with SteedaTech. We confirmed that the assembly is correct, so it is likely the biggest issue is the weight on the wheels just not letting it move enough. I should have time to get this re-checked before my track day in Oct. (I'll post pix of where the shafts are located in the opening on top after getting home tonight.)

Thanks!!

Oh no, I think this thread is about to explode.

I plan to drive less than 2 miles to my dealer and have the car aligned Monday morning. He will put the car up on the Hunter rack and perform a 4-wheel alignment (2nd one in 2 weeks).

So the car's weight will be sitting on the 4 wheels as normal. Will the tech have to jack up one corner of the car to adjust the camber plate? That sounds like a whole lot of trial and error to achieve a camber setting, and a whole lot of up and down! What am I missing? :shrug:

GTP: It may not be too big a deal. I think awareness & knowledge is the best thing for you. If they loosen it enough, they may not have any/much trouble. But, if they are unable to get enough, then you can share this info. Maybe have them move it all the way over, like the Fig. 11 shows on the instructions first, then it would be easier to back-off to the desired specs.

TennTex said:

GTP: It may not be too big a deal. I think awareness & knowledge is the best thing for you. If they loosen it enough, they may not have any/much trouble. But, if they are unable to get enough, then you can share this info. Maybe have them move it all the way over, like the Fig. 11 shows on the instructions first, then it would be easier to back-off to the desired specs.

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You are correct, once you follow the instructions it's very easy. If you have any guestions please call Steeda @ 954 960-0774 ask for Jamie ,Matt, Steve or Mike
They will be more than happy to assist you.
It just takes minutes to dial in the desired camber. Matter a fact our plates are the easiest to adjust on the market.

Steeda Tech

See attached pics for each side. The driver's side is close, but there is some more adjustment possible. The passenger side has even more available. Will get my shop to free it up and try to get more camber.

GTP said:

Oh no, I think this thread is about to explode.

I plan to drive less than 2 miles to my dealer and have the car aligned Monday morning. He will put the car up on the Hunter rack and perform a 4-wheel alignment (2nd one in 2 weeks).

So the car's weight will be sitting on the 4 wheels as normal. Will the tech have to jack up one corner of the car to adjust the camber plate? That sounds like a whole lot of trial and error to achieve a camber setting, and a whole lot of up and down! What am I missing? :shrug:

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The tech should be using turn plates under the wheels that allow for some lateral movement without requiring lots of force as camber is adjusted. There are a few ways of approximating this at the DIY level.

Quite a few considerations go into choosing what camber will work best for you. Working from Stuntman's table, your suspension's roll stiffness and wheel width relative to tire section width will play some part, with higher roll stiffnesses and relatively wider wheels not needing camber to be set as far negative as softer setups.

I also think an argument could be made for autocross needing camber settings that are slightly more negative than HPDE. The sheer violence of the maneuvers is more likely to cause the amount of roll to overshoot and send the outside tire cambers less negative/more positive at the extreme position. Smoother drivers probably don't need as much negative camber as those who are less smooth. Riding high up on the taller inside curbings needs more than staying just off those curbings - lifting the inside tire contact patch upward adds directly to the amount of roll seen by the outside tire (relative to where its path along the pavement runs), and a 1" tall curbing corresponds to just under 1° of tire camber change (the wrong way).


Norm

GTP said:

Oh no, I think this thread is about to explode.

I plan to drive less than 2 miles to my dealer and have the car aligned Monday morning. He will put the car up on the Hunter rack and perform a 4-wheel alignment (2nd one in 2 weeks).

So the car's weight will be sitting on the 4 wheels as normal. Will the tech have to jack up one corner of the car to adjust the camber plate? That sounds like a whole lot of trial and error to achieve a camber setting, and a whole lot of up and down! What am I missing? :shrug:

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The alignment machine should have a raised mode that allows for adjustments with the car up in the air.

What is max front camber with Steeda plates?

SteveW said:

The alignment machine should have a raised mode that allows for adjustments with the car up in the air.

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I know, but it sounded as though the front of the car must be raised enough to unload each individual front wheel before adjusting the camber.

I know my tech has done this before, so it will all become clear to me next Monday.

TennTex said:

See attached pics for each side. The driver's side is close, but there is some more adjustment possible. The passenger side has even more available. Will get my shop to free it up and try to get more camber.

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This is what 3 degrees of neg camber looks like. Also, once you have both plates max out to neg camber, you can easily reduce or adjust the camber with raising the center jack on the alignment machine slightly. It really is not a big deal, it takes literally seconds.

SteedaTech said:

This is what 3 degrees of neg camber looks like. Also, once you have both plates max out to neg camber, you can easily reduce or adjust the camber with raising the center jack on the alignment machine slightly. It really is not a big deal, it takes literally seconds.

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What springs are on that red car in the picture? I'm assuming they lower the car by an inch.

Well, I got my answer. About -2.4° max for me. This is after GT350 springs install. They did not drop my car at all (one reason I chose them).

To go higher would require slotting the struts or combine with camber bolts.

GTP said:

What springs are on that red car in the picture? I'm assuming they lower the car by an inch.

Well, I got my answer. About -2.4° max for me. This is after GT350 springs install. They did not drop my car at all (one reason I chose them).

To go higher would require slotting the struts or combine with camber bolts.

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Another method would be to take a hole saw and make the hole larger dia as shown in the pic. This what we did to get 3.5 neg camber on the 20 car.
In competition we found that the slotted strut method would slip.

SteedaTech said:

This is what 3 degrees of neg camber looks like. Also, once you have both plates max out to neg camber, you can easily reduce or adjust the camber with raising the center jack on the alignment machine slightly. It really is not a big deal, it takes literally seconds.

Click to expand...

This is equipped with the Steeda Dual Rate springs with a .750 drop

^This exactly. Slotting the strut seems unduly risky to me, unless a crescent-shaped piece was put in to take up the gap in the oval hole, to prevent slipping.

Opening the body hole above the strut mount is a more acceptable solution that I thought about.

There is obviously more camber available with the Steeda plate that the hole is blocking. Since caster is fixed (my preference) one could instead just "slot" the mount hole.