My upgrade to PP suspension(kind of)

SVT-DADDY said:

When I was car shopping I had a real tough time deciding between getting a PP vert or buying a premium that had foundry wheels. I like the foundry wheels better than even the aftermarket wheels for this car so went that direction . I am not ashamed to admit that I have had PP envy ever since. I have finicky tastes on things, so this really turned into a bit of an oddball build. Looking for a mild upgrade here to preserve ride quality.

Here is what I am doing and why, looking for some feedback. Questions below:

Front springs-BMR min drop. I don’t like a car that sits too low and this car has to go down a slightly rutted gravel road a couple times per year. These are on the car but without replacing the struts the car is too bouncy.

Rear Springs- PP take offs from a 2015 coupe, got these for next to nothing. I wanted a stiffer spring but didn’t want to lower the rear of the car because I like a little rake and I actually use the rear seats.

Shocks&Struts- 2017 PP vert pieces. I waivered heavily between this choice and the Steeda Adjustable. I wanted something a little more controlled without sacrificing ride quality. The value on these is tough to beat, I just hope they are “enough” for me!

Sways- 2017 PP vert pieces for the same reason as above.

Chassis- Steeda 4 point K brace, and Steeda IRS bushing support system. These are really more in prep for a future FI upgrade. Can't have enough stiffness in a vert.


Questions:

-With such a small drop(3/4”) do I need camber bolts?

-Is it worth it to get the IRS alignment bushings or does the support kit handle that?

-Worth it to get better bushings for the bars on such a mild set up?

-I’ll eventually get the upper shock mounts, but I want to change them alone so I can see what everyone is raving about.

-Anything else?


Thanks!

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Performance nut said:

I can't speak to all your questions; however, realize that our GT's sit lower than the stock PP GT cars. Likely because of the softer springs. I think most manufacturer's base their drop on stock PP GT cars. Either way, you will get your rake but the drop will likely be less than advertised. With that, I doubt the added drop will be extreme enough to require camber bolts. Also depends on how aggressive you plan on getting with your alignment. If you want more camber than what Ford specs, might be a good idea to pick some up.

Check out this awesome post that shows calculations. Maybe this will shed light on what shocks/struts to use.

Also remember that only the front sway bar changes from non-PP GT's and PP GT's. Personally, sway bars bushings is dependent upon the driver. Every little bit helps but is the increase in NVH something you are willing to tolerate. Personally it never really bothered me on other cars.

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BmacIL said:

Actually the rear bar changes diameter (goes from 21.7 mm to 22.2 for the PP). The front does not. The front bar on the GT PP gets 'sticky' bushings and a much stiffer mounting bracket that is permanently mounted to the bar.

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NightmareMoon said:

Honestly I don't like the PP shocks with anything as stiff as the PP springs or stiffer. They feel bouncy and underdampened on the highway.

Those Steeda adjustables tho...

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Performance nut said:

I can't speak to all your questions; however, realize that our GT's sit lower than the stock PP GT cars. Likely because of the softer springs. I think most manufacturer's base their drop on stock PP GT cars. Either way, you will get your rake but the drop will likely be less than advertised. With that, I doubt the added drop will be extreme enough to require camber bolts. Also depends on how aggressive you plan on getting with your alignment. If you want more camber than what Ford specs, might be a good idea to pick some up.

Check out this awesome post that shows calculations. Maybe this will shed light on what shocks/struts to use.

Also remember that only the front sway bar changes from non-PP GT's and PP GT's. Personally, sway bars bushings is dependent upon the driver. Every little bit helps but is the increase in NVH something you are willing to tolerate. Personally it never really bothered me on other cars.

Click to expand...

BmacIL said:

Actually the rear bar changes diameter (goes from 21.7 mm to 22.2 for the PP). The front does not. The front bar on the GT PP gets 'sticky' bushings and a much stiffer mounting bracket that is permanently mounted to the bar.

Click to expand...

SVT-DADDY said:

I was worried someone might say that. I guess it's a $130 gamble tho.



The awesome post brings me back to the main page. :(



Now I am wondering if .5mm is worth it!

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BmacIL said:

Having done it, it's noticeable only at limit cornering. Below that it's not noticeable. GT350 or 350R bars would be a better upgrade.

FYI the PP rear dampers with the following are pretty decent:

1. Trimmed bumpstops (at least 5/8" trimming or more, depending on drop)
2. Springs in the 740-800 lb/in range
3. Billet rear shock mounts with the spherical bearing

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BmacIL said:

Actually the rear bar changes diameter (goes from 21.7 mm to 22.2 for the PP). The front does not. The front bar on the GT PP gets 'sticky' bushings and a much stiffer mounting bracket that is permanently mounted to the bar.

Click to expand...

AmericanLegend said:

BmacIL speaks truth: Non-PP = 21.7 mm. PP = 22.2 mm

I just installed a GT350(R) 34 mm front sway bar and was able to reuse my stock PP front sway bar brackets.

The front brackets are two piece and have to be seperated to remove them from the stock PP sway bar. They were a pain to align back up perfectly when installing the front GT350(R) bar. Once the two piece brackets are aligned and installed, the PP brackets worked fine.

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wildcatgoal said:

With your spring choices, just get the Steeda fixed dampers. Those are plenty.

The PP rear shocks suck. Replacing JUST those on a PP car makes a noticeable difference.
The front strut is fine and not really causal to any bounce.

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BmacIL said:

Having done it, it's noticeable only at limit cornering. Below that it's not noticeable. GT350 or 350R bars would be a better upgrade.

FYI the PP rear dampers with the following are pretty decent:

1. Trimmed bumpstops (at least 5/8" trimming or more, depending on drop)
2. Springs in the 740-800 lb/in range
3. Billet rear shock mounts with the spherical bearing

Click to expand...