Steeda 93 Tune w/LT Headers CAI Datalog

I did my first datalogs today using a PC. I set the parameters based on the Bama link below since I couldn't readily find other info.

https://support.bamaperformance.com...meters-Do-I-need-to-Datalog-15-Mustang-GT-V6-

This wasn't a track run. It was mostly from curiosity and cruising around. I had a couple hard pulls up to 80ish and just under 7k RPM. I tried logging as Bama instructed with even runs at 2000/3000/4000 RPM, but they're not exactly in order due to traffic and varying speeds.

The car has a Steeda "need a tune" CAI, BBK 1 3/4 LT, and of course the 93 tune. It's a '16 GT Performance Package with the 3.73 gearing and MT82.

The only issue right now is a p2251 code, which I understand is the passenger side front O2. There's an extension on it, but it looks OK. I pulled the O2 sensor and it doesn't look cooked or anything but no expert here. Not sure if that code affects anything performance-wise, but the AFR sensor reads a static 14 on the dash gauge, and has for about 2 months.

Any comments are welcome. Trying to understand the car more. Thanks!

http://www.datazap.me/u/markmurfe/l...solo=3-4-5-6-10-11-12-14-15-18-23&zoom=0-5685

I shortened your .csv to the part where you had a couple pulls. Then put it into datazap to look at it easier.
It looks like you have some knock thats limiting your spark advance to about 18-21*. you should be seeing 26-28*.

Bank 1 o2 sensor is not reporting, like you stated this is the p2251 code and is the front passenger O2 sensor. this sensor is used as the primary fuel correction to that side of the engine. I would replace it ASAP and see if it helps with the knock. Also look around to see if your headers are making contact with anything that could be registered as false knock.

[MENTION=16352]markmurfie[/MENTION] thank you. When I was under the car today I looked for any signs of contact with the headers. The BBK 1 3/4 have plenty of clearance. The little bolt for the a/c is probably close to 2" from touching and I didn't see anyplace else that was even close.

As recommended by another member on here, I did a KAM reset. I haven't had a chance to run the car since I did that, but tomorrow it will be on the agenda. Nothing appears to be wrong with the O2 wiring/extensions.

I did buy some O2 sensor extender things that will take it more out of the stream. Not sure if it'll help at all but they were cheap on ebay. Maybe it'll help?

It sounds like you are talking about something usually done to the rear O2's thats usually after the cats are removed. I have not had luck with defoulers eliminating emissions and catalytic converter efficiency codes. Its easiest to turn them off in the tune. They wont help the bank 1 p2251 code.

I'm talking about the O2 that is normally in front of the cat thats not working. not sure if you did the header swap yourself, but the sensor came out of the top of the large body of the cat. It relocates to the collector of the headers. The main sensor is not reporting data for the ECU to use in fuel corrections. It could be causing your knock logic to stay in a safe mode.

markmurfie said:

It sounds like you are talking about something usually done to the rear O2's thats usually after the cats are removed. I have not had luck with defoulers eliminating emissions and catalytic converter efficiency codes. Its easiest to turn them off in the tune. They wont help the bank 1 p2251 code.

I'm talking about the O2 that is normally in front of the cat thats not working. not sure if you did the header swap yourself, but the sensor came out of the top of the large body of the cat. It relocates to the collector of the headers. The main sensor is not reporting data for the ECU to use in fuel corrections. It could be causing your knock logic to stay in a safe mode.

Click to expand...

Didn't do it myself, but know what you're referring to. I've got high-flow cats and the tune I just uploaded was to correct the CEL for the rear O2s I was getting before. Those codes are gone for now.

Is there a solution for this to prevent from happening again? A different model O2 sensor or something? I've read people have issues with the extenders, so wondering what else to fix it. There's definitely not enough wire to run to the plug with the stock unit.

With any luck the KAM reset fixed it, but my luck ain't that good.

There are 4 o2 sensors. The upstream sensors are hugely important to how the car runs. The rear sensors only monitor the efficiency of the cats and have zero impact on anything else. I have read about extensions causing problems if they read the wrong resistance. I'd take this pretty seriously and wouldn't drive the car until you figure it out, IMO. I'd probably start by replacing the sensor you're seeing a code for and see if anything changes, then go from there

The only WOT runs I did were for the log. I haven't been driving it much more than granny style since I noticed the AFR meter stuck on 14. It seems like it's running pretty rich right now and fuel consumption has been increased. Better than a lean condition at least.

I ordered 2 new Motorcraft O2 sensors for the right and left. I do have an extra extension that wasn't used for the passenger side, so if the sensor replacement doesn't fix it then I'll swap out the extension. When I pulled out the stock sensor I couldn't tell one way or the other if it looked bad. It was fairly clean other than what I'd expect for being in the middle of the exhaust stream.

It's about a 8-10" difference for trying to plug directly into the stock harness without an extension, so unfortunately it's not going to work. I did see where Bosch has a replacement O2 with 2 feet of wire but without a plug, so that might be an option if the extension is the issue.

Other than that, I'm wondering if there's a more "heavy duty" O2 sensor that would be a swap out for those of us with headers?

I seem to recall reading about using an OEM sensor from a raptor because it was longer. I don't know what year or which side was being used, but you may be able to searchhere for more info.