What is max front camber with plates?

I achieved -3.6 with Maximum Motorsport Camberplates.

Update on my max camber. I was able to get -2.6 on the drivers side. Passenger could have gone a bit more, but I am happy with this amount. See updated pic below.

Results from my track day.

Started with -2.3° camber in front and -1.5° in rear.
Measured tire temps with DVM/Type-K for the two left-side tires after each session. Delta was 8° across the left front, with equal temps across the rear tire.
Took out a little camber after a couple sessions. Temp gradient went down, but did not equal out. I still had some understeer, even with my new suspension bits. Wish I had taken out more camber in the front again.

Nevertheless, my tires still look good, so I don't have to look at ugly shoulder blocks every day. And yes, Putnam Park is MUCH easier on tires this year.

I think that each mm of shift measured in the tower hole is 0.1° of camber. Just a theory for now.

GTP said:

Results from my track day.

Started with -2.3° camber in front and -1.5° in rear.
Measured tire temps with DVM/Type-K for the two left-side tires after each session. Delta was 8° across the left front, with equal temps across the rear tire.
Took out a little camber after a couple sessions. Temp gradient went down, but did not equal out. I still had some understeer, even with my new suspension bits. Wish I had taken out more camber in the front again.

Nevertheless, my tires still look good, so I don't have to look at ugly shoulder blocks every day. And yes, Putnam Park is MUCH easier on tires this year.

I think that each mm of shift measured in the tower hole is 0.1° of camber. Just a theory for now.

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How did you measure the temps? What were the temps? Did you do a cooldown lap and did you use an IR or PROBE type pyrometer?

Using a probe, you want the inside of your tire to be 15-30* hotter than the outside for the tire to make the most cornering grip.

I used a DVM with Type-K thermocouple. I don't have a $400 pyrometer, and don't plan to get one soon. I think I was the only guy out there taking tire temps.

No cool-down lap, and I measured the temps immediately after parking in the paddock. First the LF, and then the LR tires (clockwise course).

I measured in the inside, outside, and middle grooves, by holding the tip against the rubber until the reading stabilized. 275mm wide tire, and the grooves are not right near the sidewalls.

Typical temps were 130-126-122 inside-middle-outside. A/S tires.

When I took out some camber, it was only about 1/4 degree max.

GTP said:

I used a DVM with Type-K thermocouple. I don't have a $400 pyrometer, and don't plan to get one soon. I think I was the only guy out there taking tire temps.

No cool-down lap, and I measured the temps immediately after parking in the paddock. First the LF, and then the LR tires (clockwise course).

I measured in the inside, outside, and middle grooves, by holding the tip against the rubber until the reading stabilized. 275mm wide tire, and the grooves are not right near the sidewalls.

Typical temps were 130-126-122 inside-middle-outside. A/S tires.

When I took out some camber, it was only about 1/4 degree max.

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That's mildly better than an IR, but still a waste of time. I wouldn't keep using that or drawing any conclusions from it.

You were tracking A/S tires???

When it's worth the $115 investment, buy this:

http://www.longacreracing.com/produ...id=7298&pagetitle=AccuTech™+Economy+Pyrometer

I understand that ideally the probe should penetrate the rubber. But I don't think my method was a complete waste of time.

Thanks for that link, that is more in my price range.

So Ford indicated slotting the upper strut mount would provide more than 2* of camber. This is allowed for F/S. So I did the work and got 2.5* static on one side and 2.4* on the other. Toe was 1/8" out total. Handling was better so I though more static camber. This would require CC plates not allowed in F/S. So unable to change if staying if F/S, I did some additional research to help understand what is going on.

Turns out that static on this chassis should probably not exceed -2* given the dynamic camber and caster. Moreover, moving the upper spindle mount towards centerline (adding static camber) upsets the KPI angle - makes it worse than it already is - when combined with dynamic changes.

So, the best approach is to leave the spindle mounts alone (no slotting or crash bolts), and do a CC plate with max static camber at around -1.75 to -2* and caster at +6.9*. Tweak it from there as testing dictates.

GTP said:

I understand that ideally the probe should penetrate the rubber. But I don't think my method was a complete waste of time.

Thanks for that link, that is more in my price range.

Click to expand...

Based off of your temps and tools, you cannot draw any useful conclusions to give you a proper direction on how to adjust your alignment or tire pressures. So = useless.

Invest in that probe!

I reccomend using camber plates along with SPL Camber bolts.

This way you can do the majority of the camber adjustment with the plates then fine tune the camber with the bolts.

This method is far easier than doing camber plates only and gives you more camber than plates alone.

wildcatgoal said:

I believe I was able to get to -2.8+ with mine but the strut was wacking the edge of the hole it sticks up through. I run -2.4, which will be just fine for you. Steeda's race car uses the same camber plates but to get to -3.X camber I think they slot the strut.

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Mine hit the edge of the hole on the car at about - 2.5.
Still room on the plates themselves, so a little grinding could get you to 3+. I am going to see how it likes 2.5 before modifying the stock strut tower hole.