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MyLilPony's STG2 D1SC Wastegated Procharged Build @texas_yote

What should I do next? Why?

  • Air Suspension

    Votes: 6 40.0%
  • APA wrap satin chrome red

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • APA wrap satin chrome blue

    Votes: 1 6.7%
  • Fuel System for e85

    Votes: 8 53.3%

  • Total voters
    15
  • Poll closed .

Andrewg

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Wondered that myself. Do you have any bracing up front? Could it be chassis twisting under all the torque? Reckon a BMR front subframe brace CB006 would reduce some of the deflection?
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MyLilPony

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Wondered that myself. Do you have any bracing up front? Could it be chassis twisting under all the torque? Reckon a BMR front subframe brace CB006 would reduce some of the deflection?
Yes I do have bracing up front and it is the CB006. I put that in a few weeks ago to see if it would help. The dlrin bushings eliminated the sway bar deflection and that seemed to help. I did some under hood live videos and it looks like the motor is what is moving drastically under the release of the throttle and braking (see below). The braking and 2-3 WOT videos really show the movement.

the camera is mounted to a hose so it is not fixed. So the movement you see is the camera being pulled back and then shifted forward demonstrating it is the motor moving vs the bar. if you watch it enough you see the bar seems to remain fixed.

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new302

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I always loved the way your exhaust sounds in the video with the cam tune. I see you changed the mufflers out. Did the Roush axle back bolt up to the Borla pipes without modification? How do you like it vs the Borla?
 
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MyLilPony

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I always loved the way your exhaust sounds in the video with the cam tune. I see you changed the mufflers out. Did the Roush axle back bolt up to the Borla pipes without modification? How do you like it vs the Borla?
Yep they bolted right up to the Borla pipes.

Sound wise a few things changed. At idle it is much deeper, you can literally feel it in your chest. I’ll get a new cam idle video; I think it sounds better.

There is a lot less rasp when normal cruising. The Borla you get rasp as soon as you lean on it. With the Roush you don’t get it till you really push it.

It is still just as loud. Under WOT there is no difference, both make ears bleed. Everyone I have raced that got pulled had their hand holding their ear after I️ went by them. Both will make the person next to you hurt under WOT.

The best way to describe it:

Roush: Grumbles and sounds mean AF, like a growling mean cruising.

Borla: Screams at you like a pissed off Wife 90% of the time.

Both Under WOT: Fuck you and your ear drums
 
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MyLilPony

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Here is an updated Lund Cam Tune video through the Roush Axel backs. The Borla sounds more hollow if you listen to them back to back IMHO. The Roush sounds more full...

Roush
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new302

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Way better response than I anticipated! Thanks for the info and video. I like it!
 
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MyLilPony

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Way better response than I anticipated! Thanks for the info and video. I like it!
No prob, There are WOT videos on my youtube channel. The mustang race and the C6 vet race are both with the roush using a GoPro. There is a back on the camera but you can get the point :)
 
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MyLilPony

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Starting a new build!! My daughters JK, we are gonna be twins :)
30619240-6DE4-4510-B24E-2C0553090E4A.jpeg
 

jvandy50

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nice, another vehicle with endless aftermarket support lol...you’re gonna be busy:cheers:
 

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[MENTION=15176]MyLilPony[/MENTION] Hey man I'm thinking about getting an Eboost street and saw you have one. I like where you mounted it, how did you secure it and does it restrict how far you can tilt the steering wheel?

Would you mind sharing your settings on the eboost for SP,GP,SN? How was the tuning process to get it just right? What physical wastegate spring are you running, and which port/solenoid method did you use to hook it up?

Sorry for all the questions but much appriciated :thumbsup: I can't get a spring alone to control the boost on my P1X and am considering trying a boost controller to control the wastegate better.
 
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[MENTION=15176]MyLilPony[/MENTION] Hey man I'm thinking about getting an Eboost street and saw you have one. I like where you mounted it, how did you secure it and does it restrict how far you can tilt the steering wheel?

Would you mind sharing your settings on the eboost for SP,GP,SN? How was the tuning process to get it just right? What physical wastegate spring are you running, and which port/solenoid method did you use to hook it up?

Sorry for all the questions but much appriciated :thumbsup: I can't get a spring alone to control the boost on my P1X and am considering trying a boost controller to control the wastegate better.
So originally I was planning on notching the center piece between the gauges to fit the eBoost. I havent done that yet so I cannot move my steering wheel up any more than it is. That is fine by me as I tend to run my steering wheel lower when I drive. Plus the Braum seats ride pretty low. Right now it sits in place with velcro, I know ghetto but it works and looks fine. I will make a bracket if I commit to notching everything. That is the only place I could find where I could mount it so I could see it and it didn't stand out as awkwardly placed.

Tuning process was just like any other. once you have your set boost any increase and the tune will back out timing accordingly. I see 1 to 1.5* of timing pulled above the set PSI (11) at the top. At 11# I get 16* at 7500. At 12# I see 15* and 13# ~14 to 14.5*. The Lund tune compensates for the extra boost by it self.

30, 9.5, 20 are my numbers for BG1 and 37, 9.5, 20 are my BG2 #'s. The difference is ~1.5 psi. BG1 is 11# 7000 12# at 7500. I have emergency boost dump set at 14#.

I am running a 6# spring. With the 9# spring I got more creep and it wasn't as fast to respond. I still get a little creep but I jsut plan that into the SP setting. I should have gone with the bigger MVR wastegate not the MVS, that might have helped.

The picture below is how I have mine set up. My boost reference point comes right off of the main charge pipe coming from the procharger; its sits right next to the wastegate.
wastegate.PNG
 

ahl395

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So originally I was planning on notching the center piece between the gauges to fit the eBoost. I havent done that yet so I cannot move my steering wheel up any more than it is. That is fine by me as I tend to run my steering wheel lower when I drive. Plus the Braum seats ride pretty low. Right now it sits in place with velcro, I know ghetto but it works and looks fine. I will make a bracket if I commit to notching everything. That is the only place I could find where I could mount it so I could see it and it didn't stand out as awkwardly placed.

Tuning process was just like any other. once you have your set boost any increase and the tune will back out timing accordingly. I see 1 to 1.5* of timing pulled above the set PSI (11) at the top. At 11# I get 16* at 7500. At 12# I see 15* and 13# ~14 to 14.5*. The Lund tune compensates for the extra boost by it self.

30, 9.5, 20 are my numbers for BG1 and 37, 9.5, 20 are my BG2 #'s. The difference is ~1.5 psi. BG1 is 11# 7000 12# at 7500. I have emergency boost dump set at 14#.

I am running a 6# spring. With the 9# spring I got more creep and it wasn't as fast to respond. I still get a little creep but I jsut plan that into the SP setting. I should have gone with the bigger MVR wastegate not the MVS, that might have helped.

The picture below is how I have mine set up. My boost reference point comes right off of the main charge pipe coming from the procharger; its sits right next to the wastegate.
Awesome, thanks for all the info!

Only other question is where did you route the boost line? I'm thinking make a hole in the steering column fabric and then a hole through the firewall near the sound tube hole.

I've been having issues with my wastegated P1X, started with a 12psi spring and I saw 19psi, changed to a 7psi, still see 16 and lost some midrange punch. So I'm tired of dealing with springs. Changing to a 3psi spring on my 40mm gate and using the 4 port solenoid method. I too feel like I should have gotten a bigger gate, but too late now. :headbonk:
 
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MyLilPony

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Awesome, thanks for all the info!

Only other question is where did you route the boost line? I'm thinking make a hole in the steering column fabric and then a hole through the firewall near the sound tube hole.

I've been having issues with my wastegated P1X, started with a 12psi spring and I saw 19psi, changed to a 7psi, still see 16 and lost some midrange punch. So I'm tired of dealing with springs. Changing to a 3psi spring on my 40mm gate and using the 4 port solenoid method. I too feel like I should have gotten a bigger gate, but too late now. :headbonk:
I drilled a hole in my plug for the sound tube and ran it through that. Sealed it with a bead of silicone.

My concern with a light spring like that was boost pushing it open and leaking prematurely (that’s what she said). Having slightly higher # spring made me feel a little better. I said a 9# earlier but I checked at it’s a 7#.

The gate doesn’t begin to open till 9.5# is seen which is nice so insta TQ is always there. If there is any reason to get a boost controller that is it.

Where is your gate mounted? On the intercooler or was it the charge pipe, can’t remember.
 

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I drilled a hole in my plug for the sound tube and ran it through that. Sealed it with a bead of silicone.

My concern with a light spring like that was boost pushing it open and leaking prematurely (that’s what she said). Having slightly higher # spring made me feel a little better. I said a 9# earlier but I checked at it’s a 7#.

The gate doesn’t begin to open till 9.5# is seen which is nice so insta TQ is always there. If there is any reason to get a boost controller that is it.

Where is your gate mounted? On the intercooler or was it the charge pipe, can’t remember.
I was thinking about that but was worried about the line kinking since it kinda has to go under the gas pedal first. I have to run a methanol line also so I'm thinking about drilling a small hole next to the sound tube hole.

I have a 7psi spring in now and still see 16+, so I want to drop down as low as possible (3psi) so there's no chance of not being able to bleed enough boost. I'm going to hook up mine like the pic below. The solenoid/controller hooked up this way can use the top WG port to hold it closed and the bottom port to open it. With a 3psi spring I should be able to make 18+ if needed. My wastegate is on the intercooler.

Thanks for your help, just ordered my eBoost Street. Sorry for hijacking your build thread lol.


464524d1336692308-what-symtoms-wastegate-spring-its-limits-boostcontroller-ebcs3.jpg
 
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MyLilPony

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I was thinking about that but was worried about the line kinking since it kinda has to go under the gas pedal first. I have to run a methanol line also so I'm thinking about drilling a small hole next to the sound tube hole.

I have a 7psi spring in now and still see 16+, so I want to drop down as low as possible (3psi) so there's no chance of not being able to bleed enough boost. I'm going to hook up mine like the pic below. The solenoid/controller hooked up this way can use the top WG port to hold it closed and the bottom port to open it. With a 3psi spring I should be able to make 18+ if needed. My wastegate is on the intercooler.

Thanks for your help, just ordered my eBoost Street. Sorry for hijacking your build thread lol.


464524d1336692308-what-symtoms-wastegate-spring-its-limits-boostcontroller-ebcs3.jpg
I wonder if WG location has anything to do with it bleeding boost. Not sure if it’s an issue or not.
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