Anything else

Performance nut · Oct 27, 2016

I have the Steeda "Stop the Hop" kit and currently installing the BMR CB007 on my car. Are there any other parts that stiffen the chassis or address any significant sloppy tolerance/misalignment with the car that do not significantly contribute to noise, vibration, or harshness? I realize there will be some addition of NVH since some of the slop absorbs vibration and shock from the road and engine.

Just to clarify, not addressing sway bars, springs, or shocks/struts yet. I'm looking to address any factory short comings before moving on to suspension modifications. Thanks for the input

Parts installed:
Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Bushing Support System
Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
Steeda Mustang Billet Aluminum Vertical Links
Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Support Braces
Steeda Mustang Adjustable Rear Toe Links
BMR CB007 Chassis Brace, Front Subframe, 2-point

Suggestions:

Ford Racing Mustang Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assembly - 2 Pack M-5A460-M
Ford Racing Mustang Strut Tower Brace M-20201-M or Steeda Mustang Strut Tower Brace 555-5731
Ford Racing Mustang Performance Pack Front Control Arm Kit M-3075-F or
1. Front Suspension Lower Control Arm RH 3078A(MCS-190148)
2. Front Suspension Lower Control Arm LH 3078A(MCS-190149)
3. Front Suspension Lower Control Arm RH 3078B(MCF-2329)
4. Front Suspension Lower Control Arm LH 3078B(MCF-2330)
LCA bearing (Steeda S550 Mustang Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings 555-4117 or BMR BK055 - Bearing Kit, Lower Control Arm, Rear)
Rear camber arms (Steeda S550 Mustang Rear Adjustable Camber Arms 555-4123 or BMR Upper Control Arm, Non-adjustable, Poly/spherical Brg, Alum UTCA057)
Motor mounts (BMR Motor Mount Kit, Polyurethane Bushings MM007)
Differential bushing

BmacIL · Oct 27, 2016

Replace the rear knuckle toe bushing with the bearing that FRPP sells. Add the FRPP strut tower brace kit (includes the k-brace). Get the GT PP front-rear control arms (has a better bearing where it connects to the body).

Performance nut · Oct 27, 2016

BmacIL said:
Replace the rear knuckle toe bushing with the bearing that FRPP sells. Add the FRPP strut tower brace kit (includes the k-brace). Get the GT PP front-rear control arms (has a better bearing where it connects to the body).

I think I have seen Kelly post about that knuckle toe bushing like a dozen times, just can't picture it in my head what it will take to do it. Anyone have a picture?

As for the strut tower kit, I heard the FRPP strut brace blocks some stuff. Is the K-brace worth it since I went with the CB007? I ask because Steeda's strut tower brace is recommended and something some of the PP guys are installing. If I go with Steeda, won't get the K-member brace.

Here are the part numbers I found so far for your recommendations:

Ford Racing Mustang Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assembly - 2 Pack M-5A460-M
Ford Racing Mustang Strut Tower Brace M-20201-M
Ford Racing Mustang Performance Pack Front Control Arm Kit M-3075-F

IvanCRF · Oct 27, 2016

I did the Ford Racing Toe bearings and BMR LCA bearings with a 6 ton press. It will help your goal by removing bushing slop.

Agent_S550 · Oct 27, 2016

I don't see differential bushings on the list. I would suggest a set. If you use inserts it won't be as severe as a full replacement. Consider the lower control arm bushing as well on the rear. You can get the lockouts and LCA bearings from BMR or Steeda. Both will get the job done equally as well.

I've yet to experience or meet anyone who felt any part was a significant leap in NVH outside of solid sleeved differential bushings. It seems that if you keep the differential isolated with some form of rubber you'll be okay.

IvanCRF · Oct 27, 2016

Here's a pic from my install:

IvanCRF said:

BmacIL · Oct 27, 2016

Performance nut said:
I think I have seen Kelly post about that knuckle toe bushing like a dozen times, just can't picture it in my head what it will take to do it. Anyone have a picture?

As for the strut tower kit, I heard the FRPP strut brace blocks some stuff. Is the K-brace worth it since I went with the CB007? I ask because Steeda's strut tower brace is recommended and something some of the PP guys are installing. If I go with Steeda, won't get the K-member brace.

Here are the part numbers I found so far for your recommendations:

Ford Racing Mustang Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assembly - 2 Pack M-5A460-M

Ford Racing Mustang Strut Tower Brace M-20201-M

Ford Racing Mustang Performance Pack Front Control Arm Kit M-3075-F

Honestly I wouldn't bother with this one unless you're doing a lot of track work and need the "ducting" for braking cooling. You can just buy the rear of the two control arms (the only one with a different bearing). The only difference on the front control arm is the winglet/duct to direct air over the brakes.

The K-brace and strut tower bar are absolutely worth it. They tighten the front end up a ton. It was one of the most surprising changes I've made to the car. You might be able to get the K-brace separately somehow, and get the Steeda later. The only thing the stock/FRPP strut tower bar impacts on space is the dipstick. You can still get it out and check the level without issue, it just requires a little more maneuvering.

Performance nut · Oct 27, 2016

Agent_S550 said:
I don't see differential bushings on the list. I would suggest a set. If you use inserts it won't be as severe as a full replacement. Consider the lower control arm bushing as well on the rear. You can get the lockouts and LCA bearings from BMR or Steeda. Both will get the job done equally as well.

I've yet to experience or meet anyone who felt any part was a significant leap in NVH outside of solid sleeved differential bushings. It seems that if you keep the differential isolated with some form of rubber you'll be okay.

Think the LCA bearing is a good addition if you do the rear knuckle toe bushing. As for the differential bushing, I'm wondering if this will help significantly above the already installed IRS sub frame bushing support system. [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION]

BmacIL said:
Honestly I wouldn't bother with this one unless you're doing a lot of track work and need the "ducting" for braking cooling. You can just buy the rear of the two control arms (the only one with a different bearing). The only difference on the front control arm is the winglet/duct to direct air over the brakes.

The K-brace and strut tower bar are absolutely worth it. They tighten the front end up a ton. It was one of the most surprising changes I've made to the car. You might be able to get the K-brace separately somehow, and get the Steeda later. The only thing the stock/FRPP strut tower bar impacts on space is the dipstick. You can still get it out and check the level without issue, it just requires a little more maneuvering.

Good to know about the rear vs all control arms. The issue is that I can't a different part number for the upper or lower control arms. Just has left and right, no distinction between PP and non-PP cars (though they do distinguish between GT350 and GT). If it is just the bearing that is different, would it be the same if you went with the LCA bearing that was already suggested?

Good to know with the K-brace. I'm wondering if the dipstick tube can be "adjusted" a bit to make it more accessible.

Anyone have any further suggestions?

tj@steeda · Oct 27, 2016

To compliment the package above ... you should consider the following:

Our Camber arms (555-4123) and lower control arm bearings (555-4117) would be my next step. Along with our STB (555-5731).

Happy to put you in contact with our veteran sales professional team, that have many years of racing & spirited driving under their belts ... or have Mike on our Tech Team give you a call.

Best Regards,

TJ

BmacIL · Oct 27, 2016

Performance nut said:
Think the LCA bearing is a good addition if you do the rear knuckle toe bushing. As for the differential bushing, I'm wondering if this will help significantly above the already installed IRS sub frame bushing support system. [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION]

Good to know about the rear vs all control arms. The issue is that I can't a different part number for the upper or lower control arms. Just has left and right, no distinction between PP and non-PP cars (though they do distinguish between GT350 and GT). If it is just the bearing that is different, would it be the same if you went with the LCA bearing that was already suggested?

Good to know with the K-brace. I'm wondering if the dipstick tube can be "adjusted" a bit to make it more accessible.

Anyone have any further suggestions?

If you go here, it's items 9 and 10. 9 is what you want. They are denoted for Perf. Package and Standard, left and right (obviously you want the PP):
http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-part...ne/front-suspension-cat/front-suspension-scat

FR3Z-3078-C
FR3Z-3079-C

The bearing I suggested was for the rear toe link, on the knuckle side.

BMR Tech · Oct 27, 2016

Performance nut said:
I have the Steeda "Stop the Hop" kit and currently installing the BMR CB007 on my car. Are there any other parts that stiffen the chassis or address any significant sloppy tolerance/misalignment with the car that do not significantly contribute to noise, vibration, or harshness? I realize there will be some addition of NVH since some of the slop absorbs vibration and shock from the road and engine.

Just to clarify, not addressing sway bars, springs, or shocks/struts yet. I'm looking to address any factory short comings before moving on to suspension modifications. Thanks for the input

Parts installed:
Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Bushing Support System
Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
Steeda Mustang Billet Aluminum Vertical Links
Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Support Braces
Steeda Mustang Adjustable Rear Toe Links
BMR CB007 Chassis Brace, Front Subframe, 2-point

Suggestions:
Ford Racing Mustang Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assembly - 2 Pack M-5A460-M
Ford Racing Mustang Strut Tower Brace M-20201-M
LCA bearing
Differential bushing

Gotta say, I am a huge fan of your plan to address the chassis and suspension pivots first. This is a great idea, as it will bring the true performance of your suspension to fruition...enabling you to make a better choice in determining your wheel rates / roll stiffness and damping needs. Now if only there were more BMR pieces in the mix. :cheers:

I would definitely consider adding the PP FLCA Kit if your car is a non-PP

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-3075-F

After your list, you still have the rubber left in the OEM UCL. Our new version is available in both Poly and Delrin offerings. These are a great addition as well.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=24&maincatid=113&catid=425

And lastly, I am a huge fan of more rigid motor mounts. Not only do they save a few pounds, but they also make a great difference in driveline deflection. The downfall is that the NVH will be noticeable....but many think its in a good way. It is more of a "feel what is going on" than a noise. I really like our MM007

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1595&superpro=0

Good luck and I look forward to your results!

Performance nut · Oct 27, 2016

tj@steeda said:
To compliment the package above ... you should consider the following:

Our Camber arms (555-4123) and lower control arm bearings (555-4117) would be my next step. Along with our STB (555-5731).

Happy to put you in contact with our veteran sales professional team, that have many years of racing & spirited driving under their belts ... or have Mike on our Tech Team give you a call.

Best Regards,

TJ

Added to the list sir, thank you for the input! In regards to the differential bushings, do you find it is a good addition or a minor thing?

BMR Tech said:
Gotta say, I am a huge fan of your plan to address the chassis and suspension pivots first. This is a great idea, as it will bring the true performance of your suspension to fruition...enabling you to make a better choice in determining your wheel rates / roll stiffness and damping needs. Now if only there were more BMR pieces in the mix. :cheers:

I would definitely consider adding the PP FLCA Kit if your car is a non-PP

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-3075-F

After your list, you still have the rubber left in the OEM UCL. Our new version is available in both Poly and Delrin offerings. These are a great addition as well.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=24&maincatid=113&catid=425

And lastly, I am a huge fan of more rigid motor mounts. Not only do they save a few pounds, but they also make a great difference in driveline deflection. The downfall is that the NVH will be noticeable....but many think its in a good way. It is more of a "feel what is going on" than a noise. I really like our MM007

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1595&superpro=0

Good luck and I look forward to your results!

Never would forget to invite you to the party.

In a recent post, we discussed adding a motor mount. Since my personal goal is to not add significant NVH, your recommendation was to pass on the motor mounts. Though, in case someone does a search, I added them to the list. :thumbsup:

Awesome feedback guys. Anything else?

Performance nut · Oct 27, 2016

Quick question for those on the thread. If you went with Ford Racing Mustang Performance Pack Front Control Arm Kit M-3075-F, would you need an aftermarket LCA bearing? Not sure what the difference is between the PP LCA bearing and the aftermarket offerings.

Rebellion · Oct 27, 2016

Performance nut said:
Quick question for those on the thread. If you went with Ford Racing Mustang Performance Pack Front Control Arm Kit M-3075-F, would you need an aftermarket LCA bearing? Not sure what the difference is between the PP LCA bearing and the aftermarket offerings.

The M-3075-F is for the front wheels, the BMR or Steeda LCA bearing, for the rear.

BmacIL · Oct 27, 2016

Performance nut said:
Quick question for those on the thread. If you went with Ford Racing Mustang Performance Pack Front Control Arm Kit M-3075-F, would you need an aftermarket LCA bearing? Not sure what the difference is between the PP LCA bearing and the aftermarket offerings.

That control arm kit replaces all four of your existing control arms. No other parts needed, and you have bearings at all points. Like I mentioned a few posts up, you only need the rear of those arms to get the handling/performance benefits.

The LCA bearings being talked about by tj@Steeda are for the rear (rear of the car) control arm, the inner mounting points.

Anything else

Performance nut

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BmacIL

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Performance nut

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IvanCRF

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Agent_S550

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IvanCRF

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BmacIL

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Performance nut

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tj@steeda

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BmacIL

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BMR Tech

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Performance nut

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Performance nut

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Rebellion

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BmacIL

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