GT350 DIY Oil Change

Thanks for the great write up. One question which may just be ignorance on my part...why not drain the engine oil before changing the filter? Would that prevent the need to punch a hole in the filter?

I changed my oil today, and the filter was a bitch to get off. I had to hammer the filter wrench on. Then it took a breakover bar to get it off. Good thread, and thanks for the help.

Thanks for this! I managed to find Motorcraft 5W-50 (part number XO-5w50-QGT) for $7.99 a quart from k-mansparts.com. Shipping was about $22 from DC to TX. With a $15 oil filter from Rock Auto I think ~$130 is about as cheap as an oil change is going to get.

Thanks for the great write up Kyle. I am going to have the dealer do my first change at 750 miles but I think I will take your write up. I am sure it is better than anything they have.

Great write up.

Are the jacks supposed to be that close to each other? That makes me nervous that the car would tip front or backwards very easily.

JeremyGSU said:

Great write up.

Are the jacks supposed to be that close to each other? That makes me nervous that the car would tip front or backwards very easily.

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He is using jacking rails.

jasonstang said:

He is using jacking rails.

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That doesn't change the physics of it. The further apart the jack stands, whether they contact the jack rails or the jack points, the better.

Spacebird said:

That doesn't change the physics of it. The further apart the jack stands, whether they contact the jack rails or the jack points, the better.

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Well, the jacking rails are only this long so he had to put the jack stands closer.
If he was to put jack stands on the body he would get them further apart.
Technically, you only need to jack up the front to do an oil change.

Spa2k said:

I've been shopping around awhile for a 0-100 3/8" drive torque wrench, and the need to change the oil in my GT 350 finally got me moving. Both SnapOn and Matco have versions priced a little over $300 with local discounts, but that was more than I wanted to spend.

The next best choice was Craftsman, but I wasn't sure I wanted to buy a torque wrench that only had a 1-year warranty ... until today. The Craftsman 3/8" Drive Digi-Click 5-80 ft.-lb. Torque Wrench is on sale online for $55.99, a savings of 53 percent from the normal price. (All of Sears other torque wrenches are on sale too, but only about $10 off.) I just drove to the local Sears and they honored the online price, even though the sale sticker on the shelf said $109.99; regular price is $119.99.

It's long and heavy (4.5 lbs.), but it will do the job. I don't know how long it will be on sale, so move fast if you want one. The Item No. is 00913918000P. Info: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-digi-click-torque-wrench/p-00913918000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6. The only other choice at Sears seems to be the Craftsman Micro-Clicker Torque Wrench 3/8" Drive 10-75 ft. lb. at $72.09 (Item No. 00931424000P: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-3-8inch-drive/p-00931424000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7), but the digital one has a more appropriate range and reads in in-lbs.

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That's a good deal! I'd buy it but I already have the micro-clicker one lol. I need to invest in a better 1/2" torque wrench, I don't currently own a torque wrench that goes up to the 150 ft/lbs our lug nuts are specced at :doh:

SgtMike said:

Great write up OP, waiting on my oil/filter to come in from white bear lake this week. Doing mine at ~550 miles. Perfect timing and good tips. Do you know what size torx bit it is to get the door off?

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SgtMike, I was way off with my "I think it's a T6?" reply earlier lol. I apparently don't understand Torx bits ... so I looked at my set and tried to figure out what size it is, but my arms aren't long enough to reach the oil filter access door with the car on the ground and I was too lazy to lift the car to check. I will try to figure it out. I want to say it's around the T27 range just from looking at the bits compared to a 4mm hex bit.

CANTWN4LSN said:

Thanks for the great write up. One question which may just be ignorance on my part...why not drain the engine oil before changing the filter? Would that prevent the need to punch a hole in the filter?

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The main reason I didn't drain the oil first was because I wanted to be sure I could get the factory installed filter off first - just in case. Once I broke the filter loose I still punched the hole and drained the filter first, which only drained about 1/2 qt maybe. The filter is higher than the oil pan and installed upside down at an angle. I think even if you drain the oil pan first there will still be 1/2~ qt left in the filter.

The reason I punched a hole in it was because several other forum members commented on the huge mess they made taking their filter off. They had to spend a lot of extra time cleaning the top side of the belly pan. Some members said they used a plastic bag around the filter, others recommended punching a hole and draining most of the oil first.

MidloGT350 said:

I changed my oil today, and the filter was a bitch to get off. I had to hammer the filter wrench on. Then it took a breakover bar to get it off. Good thread, and thanks for the help.

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Another trick is to put a piece of paper (I used a blue disposable shop towel) in between the filter and the filter wrench. Another trick I learned here from forum members! I also used a breaker bar to get the filter loose. With the paper/paper-towel trick, the filter wrench didn't damage the filter at all.

Spacebird said:

Thanks for this! I managed to find Motorcraft 5W-50 (part number XO-5w50-QGT) for $7.99 a quart from k-mansparts.com. Shipping was about $22 from DC to TX. With a $15 oil filter from Rock Auto I think ~$130 is about as cheap as an oil change is going to get.

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You're welcome, that's a good deal! Though with the oil @ $9.19/qt I got at the dealer, with 8.25% tax was $99.50~. I ordered a few filters from Rock Auto (along with a new A/C compressor for my Miata) to spread the shipping cost across a few items lol. I think it worked out to like $16~ per filter. So my change cost < $117 for materials.

How much does the dealer charge for an oil change for our car? I guess they'd charge $130~ for parts and 1 hour labor?

greyghost16 said:

Thanks for the great write up Kyle. I am going to have the dealer do my first change at 750 miles but I think I will take your write up. I am sure it is better than anything they have.

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Enjoy!

JeremyGSU said:

Great write up.

Are the jacks supposed to be that close to each other? That makes me nervous that the car would tip front or backwards very easily.

Click to expand...

Spacebird said:

That doesn't change the physics of it. The further apart the jack stands, whether they contact the jack rails or the jack points, the better.

Click to expand...

jasonstang said:

Well, the jacking rails are only this long so he had to put the jack stands closer.
If he was to put jack stands on the body he would get them further apart.
Technically, you only need to jack up the front to do an oil change.

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There's a bit of this debate going on in a thread I made about the jack rails: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58571

I agree that it looks a bit sketchy. Though Steeda has claimed it's fine ... there's a pic/video somewhere of a couple big guys sitting on/in the trunk and the S550 is perfectly stable. I've seen a few members post that they went with the BMR jack rails since they're a bit longer.

My car felt rock solid lifted as seen in the pics. However, I have tons of jack stands so I put 2 more under the front where you'd put the 2 front arms of a post lift at. So if the car shifted a bit it would hit these stands hopefully. I could've used the factory pinch welds for the stands and just used the jack rail as a jacking point; the rails would still be worth the money in that case! It makes it so easy to jack up the car.

Kyle. I agree the jack rail from Steeda are great and very sturdy. Did the same on oil change except oil. I used the Amsoil. Maybe we should plan a North Dallas oil change / service party? I know someone with a hanger he may host an event.

drainey said:

Kyle. I agree the jack rail from Steeda are great and very sturdy. Did the same on oil change except oil. I used the Amsoil. Maybe we should plan a North Dallas oil change / service party? I know someone with a hanger he may host an event.

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I don't think you and I have met, but I think I know who you're talking about lol. The guy who can't stop buying GT350s :lol:

That would be fun, assuming the weather is cooler! I don't think I'll be changing my oil again until November at the earliest .... maybe i'll change my trans/diff fluids early for peace of mind.

How do you like the Amsoil? I briefly considered it but I'm not sure where to buy it (locally).

kairojya said:

I don't think you and I have met, but I think I know who you're talking about lol. The guy who can't stop buying GT350s :lol:

That would be fun, assuming the weather is cooler! I don't think I'll be changing my oil again until November at the earliest .... maybe i'll change my trans/diff fluids early for peace of mind.

How do you like the Amsoil? I briefly considered it but I'm not sure where to buy it (locally).

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I was at the Shelby Car show last month. Magnetic with white strips. My son Kyle was with me. I would change out my brake fluid as well as trans/diff when it cools down. I got the oil on line and signed up for discount. I think the Amsoil will hold up better in the Texas heat, but I plan on changing often so not sure it is a big deal. Now have about 1100 miles for the 4 months since del. I was on vacation three times (the joys of retirement) and went to the track attach (you need to sign up) as well so maybe more miles in the next several months.