Bang for buck bushing/suspension upgrades

EFI · Feb 10, 2017

I have a 2016 GTPP and bought it with that extra package because I didn't want to mess with the major components of the suspension. I know that I am leaving a few seconds on the table by staying with the stock springs, shocks and sways but I'm trying to figure out what other smaller but impactful things I can do especially with the bushings.

So far I plan on doing the following:

BK051 - Differential Bushing Lockout Kit (poly)
CB010 - Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit (should I get the CB005 level 2?)
CB006 - Chassis Brace, Front Subframe, 4-point

Anyone have any experience with these from a road racing/autox standpoint? I know they help with wheelhop and all but I don't forsee myself launching the car hard from a deadstop while on a course. But it would be nice if it helps put the power down better while coming out corners.

There are several times where I find myself feathering he throttle in a low speed corner or staying in a higher gear so it doesn't have so much torque.

Any other bushing upgrades that are beneficial in turning?

ddozier · Feb 10, 2017

I would worry less about the rear diff moving for a road course setup and focus more on stopping the movement that will effect the wheel alignment when the car is under load. The rear end has a lot of rubber and compliance designed into it. This can cause the rear suspension to load up and change the rear toe settings. When the suspension unloads you will see a large swing in the toe settings as well. This movement will cause the rear to steer and your alignment settings will change dynamically in the rear suspension.

Start with bearings to replace bushings, then lock down the cradle that the lower control arms mount to, vertical links, and then camber link. Stopping the suspension and cradle from deflecting is more important than stopping the diff from moving around.

These items will limit rear toe changes:
BK055 - Lower Control Arm Bearing Kit
TCA046 or TCA045 - Vertical Link
CB005 - Cradle Bushing Lockout
UTCA064 - Camber Link (only do this if you are not going to lower the car or need more than -1.2* camber as these are designed to remove negative camber. Until BMR designs these for stock length I would find another option or wait for them to make the stock length part)

Once the rear end is done then start on the front end. The changes made to the rear will have a bigger impact on the feel of the car than the front changes. There is a ton of movement in the front end that you really can not eliminate but it can be improved.

My $.02

Dave

BmacIL · Feb 11, 2017

ddozier said:
I would worry less about the rear diff moving for a road course setup and focus more on stopping the movement that will effect the wheel alignment when the car is under load. The rear end has a lot of rubber and compliance designed into it. This can cause the rear suspension to load up and change the rear toe settings. When the suspension unloads you will see a large swing in the toe settings as well. This movement will cause the rear to steer and your alignment settings will change dynamically in the rear suspension.

Start with bearings to replace bushings, then lock down the cradle that the lower control arms mount to, vertical links, and then camber link. Stopping the suspension and cradle from deflecting is more important than stopping the diff from moving around.

These items will limit rear toe changes:
BK055 - Lower Control Arm Bearing Kit
TCA046 or TCA045 - Vertical Link
CB005 - Cradle Bushing Lockout
UTCA064 - Camber Link (only do this if you are not going to lower the car or need more than -1.2* camber as these are designed to remove negative camber. Until BMR designs these for stock length I would find another option or wait for them to make the stock length part)

Once the rear end is done then start on the front end. The changes made to the rear will have a bigger impact on the feel of the car than the front changes. There is a ton of movement in the front end that you really can not eliminate but it can be improved.

My $.02

Dave

All of these. I would also add camber plates for the front. There's not enough front camber stock without lowering some and it forces some understeer and accelerated sidewall tread block wear.

At stock height you don't need to replace the rear camber arms.

Bang for buck bushing/suspension upgrades

EFI

Well-Known Member

ddozier

Well-Known Member

BmacIL

Enginerd