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Old 10-11-2017, 03:40 PM   #496
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Well... using forscan definitely gives you benefits depending on the existing as-built-data... in my case the benefit is not that big, but it's definitely there, although my installer says i don't really need to flatten the signal anymore....

Remember, the flatter and cleaner the signal is, the better you can adjust the system to your needs.

Last edited by Cathul; 10-11-2017 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:20 AM   #497
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Quote:
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Well... using forscan definitely gives you benefits depending on the existing as-built-data... in my case the benefit is not that big, but it's definitely there, although my installer says i don't really need to flatten the signal anymore....

Remember, the flatter and cleaner the signal is, the better you can adjust the system to your needs.
Ok, wish I could find an installer in Sydney that knows how to do this...Any Aussies can help me here save me buying a device to use once in my life.

Thanks Cathul makes sense to get it right and done properly
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:43 AM   #498
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Hi Mumbles this looks like the perfect diagram for aftermarket equipment.

Would you happen to know what connector and pins are for the power feed to the factory amplifier in the diagram? I am thinking it can be used with a relay to create a 12V remote sensing wire or additionally use this 12V for the processor that can be mounted in place of the factory amplifier which can be taken out of the car completely.

I take it that one of these connectors carries the Power to the factory amplifier?
The audio enable signal is on pin #1 of the brown C2385B plug. That signal is only +6v, but as long as you use a relay that will accept a voltage of less than +10 - 12 v, you should be fine. I personally use a PAC TR-7 module.
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:32 PM   #499
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The audio enable signal is on pin #1 of the brown C2385B plug. That signal is only +6v, but as long as you use a relay that will accept a voltage of less than +10 - 12 v, you should be fine. I personally use a PAC TR-7 module.
Hi Mumbles, thanks I noted that in the forum. I was looking for the actually 12V supply that powers the Factory Amplifier, this will be good to add to your diagram with the pin outs. My reasoning is that one can build a box with a breadboard and mount all the connectors, RCA but also mount a relay in this box, so the 6V triggers the relay which feeds the 12V that was originally used to power the factory amplifier (fed off the connectors) to create a 12V remote sensing wire.

I was thinking of also connecting up my crossovers in this box to the existing speaker wiring looms.

Once this box is built you simply unplug the entire factory amplifier and plug this box in and it connects the entire system up including the speakers.

Simply mount the box in place of the factory Amplifier, no cutting any wires at all. One can return the system to stock if need be at any time.

In previous thread it was noted that the Blue with red stripe is the 12V power to the factory amplifier.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:16 AM   #500
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You mean like this?
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58862

Or this
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81102
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:54 AM   #501
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I'm just starting to do research for my stereo upgrade (I have the 401a Shaker Pro) and I've read this thread through at least 3 times and have taken notes. I'm not all that handy so I would certainly buy an already configured breakout box that made the install plug and play!

My initial thoughts are to do a 5 ch amp trunk mounted with aftermarket components (6.5" + tweet) in the front. Disconnect or remove the center channel and 3.5" mids in the upper door. And use the factory rears (for now).

I'm not an audiophile but I do want something better than what this produces. Looking for maybe a little more volume but of primary concern is clarity. I feel like I'm listening to speakers made of cardboard. If it matters, I listen to classic rock and metal.

Back to reading...
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:55 PM   #502
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Name:  mustang amp plug3 (Custom).jpg
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Pin #1 is 6 volt turn-on
Pin #11 is Ground
Pin #14 is 12volt fused.

Wire the PAC TR-4 input to the pin #1,and you now have a 12 volt out.
Doing it this way the system retains all of the factory switching.
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:55 PM   #503
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Yup thats the way to do it.
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:56 PM   #504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racemaster View Post
Attachment 143847

Pin #1 is 6 volt turn-on
Pin #11 is Ground
Pin #14 is 12volt fused.

Wire the PAC TR-4 input to the pin #1,and you now have a 12 volt out.
Doing it this way the system retains all of the factory switching.
Thanks this has confirmed everything for me!

Its easy street from here onwards with the exception of the forscan bit
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:07 PM   #505
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Originally Posted by rocknstang View Post
I'm just starting to do research for my stereo upgrade (I have the 401a Shaker Pro) and I've read this thread through at least 3 times and have taken notes. I'm not all that handy so I would certainly buy an already configured breakout box that made the install plug and play!

My initial thoughts are to do a 5 ch amp trunk mounted with aftermarket components (6.5" + tweet) in the front. Disconnect or remove the center channel and 3.5" mids in the upper door. And use the factory rears (for now).

I'm not an audiophile but I do want something better than what this produces. Looking for maybe a little more volume but of primary concern is clarity. I feel like I'm listening to speakers made of cardboard. If it matters, I listen to classic rock and metal.

Back to reading...
Hi there, its a minefield. I would keep it simple.
Depends how over the top you want to go.
Using a processor and amplifier for each channel etc.

Personally for a very simple approach is ditch the rear speakers and take them out add a subwoofer in the trunk driven off a 4 channel amplifier.

The other channels can drive a set of component 2 way speakers up front

Remove center channel.

Tap into the preamp signal from the ACM - if you have a premium 9 speaker setup.

The issue is you need to remove DSP from the ACM and this requires forscan and a doobiwakka of some sorts (OBD programmer) I am stuck on this one.

I will try without the forscan and see what happens.
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:31 PM   #506
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I did do the change to the As built data for a flatter signal.That change was small,but an improvement.Now I run a Helix amp that has both input and output EQ,crossovers,and time alignment adjustments.
To me it is the easiest and best solution as it is all in one unit.
You could also use just the helix dsp to your favorite amp with the same results.
You could do it that way and EQ the input signal to your liking.
Check them out,they make some nice equipment.
http://www.audiotec-fischer.de/lng/en/helix/products/
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Old 10-14-2017, 04:14 PM   #507
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I did do the change to the As built data for a flatter signal.That change was small,but an improvement.Now I run a Helix amp that has both input and output EQ,crossovers,and time alignment adjustments.
To me it is the easiest and best solution as it is all in one unit.
You could also use just the helix dsp to your favorite amp with the same results.
You could do it that way and EQ the input signal to your liking.
Check them out,they make some nice equipment.
http://www.audiotec-fischer.de/lng/en/helix/products/
Yup you are onto it. P six DSP MK2 expensive but so worth it.

Looks like I can use this mount it where the existing factory amp goes send the correct signals to each speaker and subs in the trunk.

Just one question to clarify. I have no idea how to flatten the As built data can I simply leave that option out? or is it a must do?
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Old 10-14-2017, 05:53 PM   #508
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There is a thread on here somewhere as to what string has to be modded in the file to load into the acm.There are also threads on the ford fusion forum as to how it is done.I had OEMradio write me the file years ago,and my buddy that works for ford used his ford scanner to load it.Some say the cheap obd reader/writers work,but I have never used it.
The helix has both input and output eq,so you could get it close doing it that way.I have only used the output eq part,I have yet to touch the input side.
Also be warned,trying to mount that amp in the factory location is a chore.It just barely fits.Look over my thread again and see how tight it really is.There is NO room under that dashboard to work.
But in the end it was all worth it.The factory stuff is garbage.
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Old 10-14-2017, 07:24 PM   #509
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There is a thread on here somewhere as to what string has to be modded in the file to load into the acm.There are also threads on the ford fusion forum as to how it is done.I had OEMradio write me the file years ago,and my buddy that works for ford used his ford scanner to load it.Some say the cheap obd reader/writers work,but I have never used it.
The helix has both input and output eq,so you could get it close doing it that way.I have only used the output eq part,I have yet to touch the input side.
Also be warned,trying to mount that amp in the factory location is a chore.It just barely fits.Look over my thread again and see how tight it really is.There is NO room under that dashboard to work.
But in the end it was all worth it.The factory stuff is garbage.
Thanks heaps, you are a lifesaver. I have more reading to do on the programming front but the threads are all over the place with contradictions.

I think you are right I have already run the power cable to the trunk, so all i really need to do is make up a junction box with the pre-amp, speaker and remote wires and mount everything else in the spare tyre well.

I think I am getting close to a result

Thanks
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Old 10-20-2017, 07:34 PM   #510
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Amp

Hi guys,

I just replaced the front speakers of my 2017 mustang EBP convertible and I'm still not getting the sound I want. The music isn't crisp and clear. I'm going to replace the rear speakers tomorrow but I was thinking of also installing an amp.

Based on the feedback in this forum, it seems like I need to keep the factory amp in place and add a line output converter like the LC7i in order If I get that installed, do I just install a regular amp in line right after it?
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