Sound tube delete

TorkN8R · Dec 30, 2014

I don't think there is any such thing as a dumb question. The only thing dumb is not asking.

For me the sound tube is just engine bay clutter. It not only blocked the view of my new Ford blue coil cover on the driver side, it just took away from the symetrical view of the power plant sitting in there.

It doesn't increase performance in anyway, so the removal of it won't cause any reduction in performance.

It was designed by Ford Engineers to, as they say increase the drivers driving experiance. It does work in that sense. It transfers sound from the engine compartment into the drivers compartment.

It's basiclly the old two cans and a string when we were kids. Or a talk tube at a play ground. except much more advanced. Ford diffenently spent time and money on the design and engineering.

You don't have to remove it, you can just leave it as is. Or you could take it off, remove the foam plug at the fire wall end, heck you could go one step further and take it apart and remove even more of the baffling inside the two other acoustical compartments and really enhance your driving experiance.

For me...it's just not needed and I like the way it looks removed.

TorkN8R · Dec 31, 2014

Free Agent said:
I'd just like to know what sizes of plugs or caps are being used to seal the hole in the intake tube and the one in the firewall. I've asked this over and over but never seem to get an answer from anyone. :(

Update...so today I went to some auto parts stores to look for parts to plug the fire wall hole and cap the intake tube stub out. No luck there! So I went to the hardware store.

For the intake tub, I Picked up a black rubber chair leg or walking cane end. Size 1". Fit very snugly, I had to force/twist it on, and looked just fine to me for now. It would diffenently stay in place on its own, but I went ahead and used the OEM clamp that held the sounnd tube on.

For the fire wall hole, I picked up a black rubber plug. It was a tapper from about 1/2" on one end and 1" on the other end. Total lenght was probably about 1 1/4". It fit snugly as well. I couldn't really get to enough to twist it in there good, but I used the end if the 12" extension to push it in. I think it works for now.

There both heavy dense black rubber so they will hold up to engine bay heat soak.

TorkN8R · Dec 31, 2014

Cap for sound tube removal at intake tube.

Todd15Fastback · Dec 31, 2014

Thanks for the info and pictures!

TorkN8R · Dec 31, 2014

Plug at fire wall for sound tube removal.

DanFish · Dec 31, 2014

So only the GT comes with the sound tube?

Free Agent · Jan 2, 2015

Thank you very much TorkN8R.

Did you hit up a local independent hardware store or a chain like Ace Hardware? I need to get this done before I order a strut tower brace and put it on. More room and less cluttered look.

Again thank you.

Free Agent · Jan 2, 2015

Just did this myself.

Thanks for the help TorkN8R.

Had to buy the 1 inch chair leg end in a pack of 4 as they didn't have singles available. Now I have 3 extras. As for the rubber stopper I used a 1 1/4 inch (1.25) diameter top by 1 inch (1.0) diameter bottom #6 stopper. Don't get a 1 inch diameter stopper, it will be too small and won't fit.

As for taking off the tube it is a pain in the arm. My deep 10 mm socket was too deep and wouldn't fit over the long stud without bumping into the head. Luckily my arms are just small enough that I could wedge it in there with a stubby 10 mm ratcheting wrench. That worked great except the nut wouldn't spin off by hand until the very end of the stud. Cap on the intake tube went on great and I clamped it off with the original although I don't think you would actually need it there. Got the stopper pushed/wedged/twisted in there nice and tight as well.

A nice bonus is now I can pull the oil dipstick out with ease and it should be ready for me to put on a strut tower brace as soon as I find one I like.

Many thanks to TorkN8R.

stoli · Jan 2, 2015

I started with a 1/4" and swivel ratchet/extension combo and had a b@#ch of a time and started to just cut the thing off with a box cutter and gave it another go with an open socket and had an easier time at it. Having short, fat arms didn't help matters. ;)

TorkN8R · Jan 2, 2015

Free Agent said:
Just did this myself. Thanks for the help TorkN8R.

Had to buy the 1 inch chair leg end in a pack of 4 as they didn't have singles available. Now I have 3 extras. As for the rubber stopper I used a 1 1/4 inch (1.25) diameter top by 1 inch (1.0) diameter bottom #6 stopper. Don't get a 1 inch diameter stopper, it will be too small and won't fit.

As for taking off the tube it is a pain in the arm. My deep 10 mm socket was too deep and wouldn't fit over the long stud without bumping into the head. Luckily my arms are just small enough that I could wedge it in there with a stubby 10 mm ratcheting wrench. That worked great except the nut wouldn't spin off by hand until the very end of the stud. Cap on the intake tube went on great and I clamped it off with the original although I don't think you would actually need it there. Got the stopper pushed/wedged/twisted in there nice and tight as well.

A nice bonus is now I can pull the oil dipstick out with ease and it should be ready for me to put on a strut tower brace as soon as I find one I like.

Many thanks to TorkN8R.

You're very welcome. Glad that I could help and finally contribute to the forum. You nailed it...ACE Hardware is exactly where I went for the cap & plug. Yup! I have 3 left over chair legs caps as well.

as for the plug...I really wasn't sure of the Dia: the tray just said 1", I guess that means about 2/3 the way up the taper.

But the results are good yes? Works for me and appearently you too. I hope other members find it useful.

Oh...I almost forgot. With the sound tube gone it is less cluttered but as far as ease of dipstick removal...the STB cancells that out, mine's still a bit of a pain.

Todd15Fastback · Jan 2, 2015

TorkN8R said:
Photo of the 1/4" drive rachet configuration that I used to sucessfully remove the 10mm bolt from the fire wall.

TorkN8R said:
Done! It's out...and good Bye! That that was not very easy.

I removed all four bolts on the strut tower brace. I didn't remove it because of the battery cable on the right side. I folded up a towel and lefted up the left/drivers side of the STB and supported it on towel on top of the intake manifold cover.

I released the clamp on the intake tube, lifted it off the airbox, and released it from the next fastener, than twisted it up out of the way on top of the intake manifold cover, under another towel.

At that point...I took my flex extendable pen LED light and I could actually see the 10mm stud and bolt under the tube at the fire wall. Yeah!

I took a 1/4" drive, 10mm deep stocket with a swivel attached, than a 6" extension and snaked my hand in there and got it over the nut. Than I attached another swivel to the end of the 6" extention. Than I put a 12" extension on to that.

Put my 1/4" rachet on to that, a few dozen quick rachets later and the nut was loose enough to spin off with my fingers. I managered to reach my hand in and pull it off the stud at the fire wall and than snaked it out of there.

Now tomorrow...the hunt is on for caps and plugs. Update to follow. Good luck to all that want to attemp this. Now that I've done it it really wasn't all that bad. Maybe 20 minutes.

A good tip. 24" X 36" rubber backed bath mats make great and inexpensive fender protectors. They didn't slide around and they provide a bit of padding for your elbows.

TorkN8R said:
Spelunking...lol!

I used a u-joint type in the end of the 10mm deep socket. Than a 6" extension, than another u-joint type on the end of that 6", than the 12" on the end of that, than the rachet...follow?

So wrist joint and than elbow joint on that long arm to the fire wall.

TorkN8R said:
Update...so today I went to some auto parts stores to look for parts to plug the fire wall hole and cap the intake tube stub out. No luck there! So I went to the hardware store.

For the intake tub, I Picked up a black rubber chair leg or walking cane end. Size 1". Fit very snugly, I had to force/twist it on, and looked just fine to me for now. It would diffenently stay in place on its own, but I went ahead and used the OEM clamp that held the sounnd tube on.

For the fire wall hole, I picked up a black rubber plug. It was a tapper from about 1/2" on one end and 1" on the other end. Total lenght was probably about 1 1/4". It fit snugly as well. I couldn't really get to enough to twist it in there good, but I used the end if the 12" extension to push it in. I think it works for now.

There both heavy dense black rubber so they will hold up to engine bay heat soak.

TorkN8R said:
Cap for sound tube removal at intake tube.

The mods should take all this info and create a "How to" sticky for the removal of this:cheers:

KCTom · Jan 3, 2015

Just did mine. Kinda reminds me of "Rite of passage" project of replacing the clutch quadrant on the old 5.0's. Body contortioning and lots of adult words. Mine is a GT P.P. with the Strut tower brace and the other black braces behind. I just couldn't get the socket into position with all the stuff in the way. I ended up taking the sound tube apart at a clamp located directly under the strut tower brace. I was then able to slide my left arm under the brace basically laying against the cylinder head and operate a stubby ratchet wrench with a six inch extension, swivel and 10mm socket. At that point it was pretty easy. Not off to the dollar store to see if they have any plugs. Don't have a hardware store in my little town. Grrrr.

Anthony · Jan 3, 2015

10mm swivel ratchet wrench.

I don't understand why some guys won't listen. It's a $15 single wrench at Sears. Or $15 for a set of them at home depot.

I didon't remove intake. It in no way needs to be removed.

Unbolt the strut brace and swing it out of the way.

Pull the sound tube off the intake, grab it and flip it up and over the cam covers.

Pull cam cover and dip stick

Run your left hand and forearm above the manilfolds/ along the plugs. Put wrench on the nut and ratchet off.

Hold beer with right hand

dubster99 · Jan 3, 2015

Does the sound tube become irrelevant when an aftermarket intake is installed?

Free Agent · Jan 3, 2015

dubster99 said:
Does the sound tube become irrelevant when an aftermarket intake is installed?

I found it irrelevant on the stock intake. ;)

Sound tube delete

TorkN8R

Well-Known Member

TorkN8R

Well-Known Member

TorkN8R

Well-Known Member

Todd15Fastback

Well-Known Member

TorkN8R

Well-Known Member

DanFish

Well-Known Member

Free Agent

2015 GT Premium

Free Agent

2015 GT Premium

stoli

Fat Guy Racing

TorkN8R

Well-Known Member

Todd15Fastback

Well-Known Member

KCTom

Well-Known Member

Anthony

Banned

dubster99

Well-Known Member

Free Agent

2015 GT Premium