Clutch pedal feel

Has anybody replaced the master cylinder, or tried to bleed the slave.

Do you have a specific concern? If you don't like how the clutch pedal feels I'd suggest pulling the assist spring first before replacing any expensive components. There are a few threads on that you can read up on.

I did some thread research, and found lots of stuff about the steeda spring etc. But nobody tried bleeding the system, and nobody considered a bad master. Just food for thought

This is interesting, would not have considered bleeding it if there had been no work done on it to introduce air into the system. I'm a definite Steeda clutch spring outlier. Didn't care for it and returned to the stock spring. In my particular case it feels much better.

What if the factory didn't bleed it correctly?

cking said:

I did some thread research, and found lots of stuff about the steeda spring etc. But nobody tried bleeding the system, and nobody considered a bad master. Just food for thought

Click to expand...

Bleeding the system or addressing a bad master for what issue though? They address different issues from a steeda spring. The double-helper spring on the pedal is annoying when it's working on the top end of the travel, so you take out the spring. It's very clear what the spring does and why we remove it. If you're experiencing a different issue you're trying to solve, then yes there's a chance your issue may not be associated with the helper spring, but I don't believe you've said what the issue you're looking into is. What's the problem you're trying to fix?

as i was reading the service manual, it states that air will cause an inconsistency at the top of pedal travel, another about pedals sticking. This is not brakes where you go to end of line and open a bleeder port. You have to work the air back to reservoir by repeated vacuuming. Seems like ideal place for screw up, on the production line. The air has go from slave through the master and finely back to reservoir long trip for some bubbles hiding in corners. Frankly I'd like to someone explain to how this has a chance at working!

Bleed clutch? Found Solution!

Explain to me how this works?. Factory manual says pull 15 - 20 inches vacuum on the reservoir for minute then quickly release. Then pump the clutch dozen times. Repeat two or more times till you get good pedal at top of the stroke.

I realize the reservoirs is above the master which is above slave. pulling a vacuum for minute makes the bubbles bigger. Then you collapse them, How does that help get them out? Doesn't sound effective or it wouldn't say two or more times. Maybe that clutch feel is air! Can you see them doing this on the assembly line?

I think by design the clutch bleeds itself as you operate it. I never had to bleed clutch on any of my cars, I only did it to change the fluid when very old , case when I just opened the bleeder at slave end until fresh fluid came out....

There is no bleeder on the slave built into throwout bearing.

I purchased the Steeda clutch spring assist and wow what a difference, plus it was easy to install. :cheers:

torque124 said:

I think by design the clutch bleeds itself as you operate it.

Click to expand...

This is true, the system is self bleeding. Using a vacuum bleeder is definitely quicker, but unnecessary.

I'll bite how does a self bleeder work? If there is a rise in a line how do you chase the bubble out?

Hah I was on to something check out this link, it will 15-16 checked Mcleod site, more flow and a bleeder

https://lmr.com/item/MCL-139252/Mcleod-Hydraulic-Clutch-Line-Mustang-05-14

Hah I was on to something check out this link, it will 15-16 checked Mcleod site, more flow and a bleeder

https://lmr.com/item/MCL-139252/Mcleod-Hydraulic-Clutch-Line-Mustang-05-14