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What to use to cap off brake lines?

mikes2017gt

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This weekend I'll finally get my Brembo/rotors/stainless lines/pads swap done. What can I use to cap off the hard lines when I remove the brake hoses?

I know I'm going to have to bleed the system, but I'd rather not loose half the fluid in the process. The car only has 9K miles on it, all highway, so it's not like the stock fluid is all bad and needs to be swapped out anyway.

Not sure if there's some standard product people use to cap off brake hard lines, but would appreciate some ideas. Thanks.
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Mootang

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Not sure this will help, but I had to repair my rear driver side (left) hard brake line due to cross thread. I looked around for a way to stop the brake fluid drip and couldn't find anything (except now [MENTION=31783]Shocker[/MENTION] <- THANKS!).

What I ended up doing was getting a pipe or hard stick and pressed the brake pedal in and hold it there. Seems to work for me lol. Note that I only needed the hard line to not drip for about an hour or so. Step-wise, I loosen the brake line and detached it, then had a friend with a cup to catch the brake fluid from the hard line. I pressed the brake in (fluid came out in the rear hard line), placed pipe/pole in and hold the brake pedal. No more drip and was able to work on the hard line.

Sorry for long read and response.
 
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mikes2017gt

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No worries, Mootang. I appreciate the details! Shocker: that's a nice tool. I had no idea they even made something like that.

Anyone know the diameter of the hard brake lines? I followed some links/suggested products when Googling that Eastwood tool and found those plastic caps that go on the ends of adjustable shelf pins to keep the shelf from rattling/slipping. These things:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQMPQMY?th=1

Just no idea what size to order.
 

Mootang

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No worries, Mootang. I appreciate the details! Shocker: that's a nice tool. I had no idea they even made something like that.

Anyone know the diameter of the hard brake lines? I followed some links/suggested products when Googling that Eastwood tool and found those plastic caps that go on the ends of adjustable shelf pins to keep the shelf from rattling/slipping. These things:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQMPQMY?th=1

Just no idea what size to order.
The brake lines are 3/16" from what I measured in the past. That comes out to 0.1875 in and 4.7625mm. So, technically, a 5mm will work. However, the brake line is painted/coated black and does add diameter. I measured 5.49mm (that's about 0.7mm difference), so I don't know if 6mm will work better? I would assume 5mm caps will work since it can stretch a little for a snug fit.

Never mind, just saw the link and the lowest is 6mm, so I guess 6mm cap will work lol.
 

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mikes2017gt

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I ordered the 6mm ones. Was hoping for 2-day Amazon Prime delivery, but Sat is the earliest I could get them. Planning on doing the job on Sat, so I hope they get delivered early! Thanks, Mootang.
 

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Just hang the hoses higher, it will not come out.
 

thatonenozz

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Not sure this will help, but I had to repair my rear driver side (left) hard brake line due to cross thread. I looked around for a way to stop the brake fluid drip and couldn't find anything (except now [MENTION=31783]Shocker[/MENTION] <- THANKS!).

What I ended up doing was getting a pipe or hard stick and pressed the brake pedal in and hold it there. Seems to work for me lol. Note that I only needed the hard line to not drip for about an hour or so. Step-wise, I loosen the brake line and detached it, then had a friend with a cup to catch the brake fluid from the hard line. I pressed the brake in (fluid came out in the rear hard line), placed pipe/pole in and hold the brake pedal. No more drip and was able to work on the hard line.

Sorry for long read and response.
I have the same issue with the cross thread. Were you able to clean up the threads with a die or did you replace the connector/reflare the line?
 

Mootang

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I have the same issue with the cross thread. Were you able to clean up the threads with a die or did you replace the connector/reflare the line?
I seriously think my hard line came cross threaded from Ford. This was my first time having an issue with brake lines, especially hard lines. The threaded screw on nut that slides on the hard line was cross threaded, so I had to replace it. Ford only sells the hard line with the nut on there already and I didn't need that. I ended up cutting the hard line at the flare, sanded, cleaned it off, removed black coating (just a little), drilled a slightly bigger hole through the new nut (inner diameter was correct size, but I guess Ford use one that accounted the for thickness of the black coating), slide the new nut on, flared the end, and rebend the hard line to line up with the mount again. So far, no leaks or issues.

Note: I switched to Wilwood Big Brake kit for the front and rears, so not sure if that makes a big difference.
 

thatonenozz

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Dude seriously mine too! I can't get the new line to thread on at all but the factory line threads on just fine so I think that's just how it came. I tried my hand at flaring on some spare line and I honestly think a cross threaded nut would hold fluid better than my flares lol
 

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mikes2017gt

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Dayum. Now you guys have me worried! :eyebulge: It wasn't even in my mind that the factory nut could be cross-threaded/stripped/dorked-up.

Don't take this the wrong way, but are you guys sure the nut was cross-threaded/stripped vs. your replacement brake line/nut was threaded differently than stock? Just spitballing here.

I bought the Steeda stainless line kit to replace all 4 factory hoses. From what I can see (and I looked hard), the fittings on the Steeda hoses are identical to the factory hoses, except for color. The factory fittings are kind of a steel-gray color, while the Steeda fittings are brass-colored. Physically, they appear identical down to the little tabs that hook into the frame of the car to keep the fitting from rotating on the bolt that secures the line to the chassis.

If the factory nut is stripped and I remove it, it might not go back on. Now I'm wondering if I should even change the lines. Was not expecting this. :(
 

thatonenozz

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I'm pretty positive that there was something up with the threads because my passenger side rear threaded onto the same replacement line just fine.
 

Mootang

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Dayum. Now you guys have me worried! :eyebulge: It wasn't even in my mind that the factory nut could be cross-threaded/stripped/dorked-up.

Don't take this the wrong way, but are you guys sure the nut was cross-threaded/stripped vs. your replacement brake line/nut was threaded differently than stock? Just spitballing here.

I bought the Steeda stainless line kit to replace all 4 factory hoses. From what I can see (and I looked hard), the fittings on the Steeda hoses are identical to the factory hoses, except for color. The factory fittings are kind of a steel-gray color, while the Steeda fittings are brass-colored. Physically, they appear identical down to the little tabs that hook into the frame of the car to keep the fitting from rotating on the bolt that secures the line to the chassis.

If the factory nut is stripped and I remove it, it might not go back on. Now I'm wondering if I should even change the lines. Was not expecting this. :(
I changed all 4 lines out and they were all smooth except for the rear driver side. Mines were steel braided lines from Wilwood as I can only use their lines for their calipers. The rear driver side gave me trouble the moment I started to loosen. It was like Ford cross threaded it in and left it like that thinking I will never touch it. I changed out brake lines and unscrewed the connectors on hard brake lines before on Toyotas, Mercs, and Porsches. Ford so far (just that rear driver side) was the only one that gave me issues so far. First time I ever had to flare out painted/coated hard brake line while its still attached to the car lol.

I think you will be fine, just be careful and slow with it. Use a flare wrench and make sure it is lined up before unscrewing (meaning no tugging or pulling of it from an angle from other lines).
 
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mikes2017gt

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Thanks a lot for the tips. I will be very careful. I bought a flare wrench set specifically to do this swap...big believer in the right tool for the job.

I know what a cross threaded bolt/nut feels like when trying to loosen or tighten it; It feels "stuck" and is very difficult to turn. Here's hoping I DON'T feel that dreaded continued resistance after the initial half-turn breakaway force is applied.

I could see someone on the assembly line "just leaving the cross threaded nut in there" b/c who would ever swap out brake lines on one of the most modded cars in production? :headbonk: Don't remember off the top of my head how long the rear lines are. I.E. if in order to replace one, you have to replace the line all the way back to the master cylinder, but if that's the case, I could see someone not wanting to get in trouble for admitting to something that "no one will ever find out." Don't agree with it, though. What if that cross-threaded fitting leaks and the brakes fail? Unlikely, but you get my point, I'm sure.

Guess I'll find out this weekend! :hail: <--hoping my car was built mid-week
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