NvrFinished
Well-Known Member
Yes, I just discovered this myself a few weeks ago. So is the 2.5" spring perch correct then?
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Yup, saw that. I suppose it's useful here because I'm sure a lot of people don't know about it.
If I get these, I should remove the camber bolt and replace it with a normal splined strut bolt, right? No sense in having both the camber plates and a camber bolt.
That's what I ordered. Ridetech's page state's they use hyperco 2.5" springs so I went off that info.Yes, I just discovered this myself a few weeks ago. So is the 2.5" spring perch correct then?
You would have to convert your spring rate to wheel rates as well as the coil spring rate to compare them. Offhand I am not sure what the wheel rate is for s550 stock suspension.Do spring rates on a coilover translate to the same rate as spring and strut setup?
I had Steeda Sport Linear springs: 198lb, so would a 200lb spring on the front ride techs act the same?
So what's the advantages of the camber plate over the camber bolt?
A word on camber adjustment. You should use C/C plates rather than slotting the struts or using a camber bolt. Reason one is that making adjustments is so much easier with the plates. You don't need to get into the suspension mounts that would be required using the other methods. Reason two is that the factory KPI is not that great when in dive and roll. But moving the spindle inboard at the top for more camber messes it up further. Start with -2* camber, +6.9 caster, your toe choice (I like a bit of toe out up front; toe in for the rear) and check tire temps to see how the tires are working. Adjust as necessary.
I found them cheapest through Amazon of all places but I just ordered 325f 450r springs.Ill probably end up messing around with springs until I find what works best for my driving. Can't go wrong for $61 each.What springs did you order?
300What spring do you have that you dont want?
I have 375 front thinking of going softer.
Rebound actually determines how fast the spring recovers from compression. It it recovers too fast the chassis is upset for the next element/corner and hence loss of traction. In the front, you want compression set to allow the spring compression which permits weigh transfer increasing front grip. As the car goes into the corner, there will be rebound on the inside. Thus rebound can be set to limit or increase the jacking effect.Increasing rebound all around will decrease the rate the car squats and dives at. That's why I think you'd like a damper with more rebound capability.
The bolt was designed to correct alignment variances due to accidents - hence the name "crash bolt". While it allows camber adjustment similar to slotting the strut, it throughs-off other suspension geometry.So what's the advantages of the camber plate over the camber bolt?