Sponsored

How ATI RECOMMENDS you install their damper

IvanK

Active Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2016
Threads
4
Messages
40
Reaction score
7
Location
Memphis
First Name
Ivan
Vehicle(s)
2015 Auto GT
There has been ALOT of questions about this lately.. So we worked with JC @ ATI Performance and came up with this article. It will also be on their website to view. Up until now there has been limited information about proper installation. The job isnt complicated but it does require the use of proper tools. With the right tools its simple. Hope you guys find it useful! :cheers:


http://www.powerperformancenews.com/features/ati-performance-damper-install-on-2015-mustang-gt/
Sponsored

 

Captdistraction

Not the Stig
Joined
Sep 3, 2016
Threads
21
Messages
202
Reaction score
35
Location
Phoenix
Website
www.facebook.com
First Name
Chris
Vehicle(s)
2016 mustang GT350 Tech Pack, 2011 Mustang Racecar, 2011 Raptor
Interesting. I had a hell of a time getting mine seated all the way on a fresh build, is freezing the damper recommended before install? or warming it?

Don't need it now, but I might replace my crank seal sometime, and hadn't had enough coffee to think through the process.
 

Jay-rod427

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2016
Threads
29
Messages
2,422
Reaction score
1,009
Location
Kansas
Vehicle(s)
2016 GT C/S
Warming the balancer will expand it slightly. Be careful not to get too hot as can damage the internals.
 
OP
OP

IvanK

Active Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2016
Threads
4
Messages
40
Reaction score
7
Location
Memphis
First Name
Ivan
Vehicle(s)
2015 Auto GT
If you are going to heat it. I recommend you heat only the hub. Get it nice and hot in an oven or something that will heat evenly. Then install quickly. Once the hub is seated you can let it cool and assemble the rest of the Damper. Oh and dont forget the inner ring goes on before you press the hub on! lol
 

Sponsored

OP
OP

IvanK

Active Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2016
Threads
4
Messages
40
Reaction score
7
Location
Memphis
First Name
Ivan
Vehicle(s)
2015 Auto GT
There are a few ways of getting the damper bolt torqued down. Didnt find it too necessary to mention them all. You know how it is.. If you mention one then someone will say well you could have done it this way too. LOL

Hope the information was helpful though!
 

sigintel

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2015
Threads
59
Messages
2,039
Reaction score
1,068
Location
Republic of Texas, God's Country
First Name
Ray
Vehicle(s)
2018 GT
Serious question:
Why have an interference fit if you are going to use anti seize which contains grease?
It seems this would focus all the torque transfer on key and keyway and since the ATI keyway is cut overwide... you would risk ratcheting the lash out of the key to key way fit?
I cleaned everything with brake cleaner and compressed air with front cover off to insure no sealant back in pan and inspect key way. Replaced key cause stock had a high spot.
Installed only AC pulley to ATI hub and heated to 210 in oven for 1 beer (10 min).
Only added RTV to ATI keyway and installed with B7 200mm stud/rod with a 10.9 nut.
Have also used 130mm bolt from fastenal w increasing washer stack. Just always count turns and stop at 15.5 cause a hair over 16 bottoms out.
All threads clean dry and torqued an ARP. bolt to 120 ftlb.
While red threadlocker may stop bolt from spinning, it wont stop damper from lashing on the crank if the ATI keyway is oversize.
I lock the crank w a soft AL tooth lock that bolts to bell housing; however, I use a strap wrench to make sure the key is loaded against keyway for driving supercharger as I start tightening down so no lash at least on driving SC.

But back to question, why grease an interference fit and decrease its torque holding before it lashes keyway?
 

tsloms

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2016
Threads
8
Messages
406
Reaction score
110
Location
Wisconsin
Vehicle(s)
2016 Mustang GT Magnetic PP
Serious question:
Why have an interference fit if you are going to use anti seize which contains grease?
It seems this would focus all the torque transfer on key and keyway and since the ATI keyway is cut overwide... you would risk ratcheting the lash out of the key to key way fit?
I cleaned everything with brake cleaner and compressed air with front cover off to insure no sealant back in pan and inspect key way. Replaced key cause stock had a high spot.
Installed only AC pulley to ATI hub and heated to 210 in oven for 1 beer (10 min).
Only added RTV to ATI keyway and installed with B7 200mm stud/rod with a 10.9 nut.
Have also used 130mm bolt from fastenal w increasing washer stack. Just always count turns and stop at 15.5 cause a hair over 16 bottoms out.
All threads clean dry and torqued an ARP. bolt to 120 ftlb.
While red threadlocker may stop bolt from spinning, it wont stop damper from lashing on the crank if the ATI keyway is oversize.
I lock the crank w a soft AL tooth lock that bolts to bell housing; however, I use a strap wrench to make sure the key is loaded against keyway for driving supercharger as I start tightening down so no lash at least on driving SC.

But back to question, why grease an interference fit and decrease its torque holding before it lashes keyway?

When I installed mine I did it the same way I've installed hundreds of them over the years. Just as you said I instsllled it dry til it seated except I used a homemade stud to engage all the crank threads for pulling, applied a little Ultra Black to the key, and torqued down the ARP bolt with ARP lube. On a side note I double checked the torque on my bolt after a few thousand miles and it hasn't moved. Properly installed they can't loosen.
 

Kahboom

Kahboom
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Threads
26
Messages
1,206
Reaction score
184
Location
Cathedral City, CA
Vehicle(s)
2015 Mustang GTPP, Recaros/2014 Explorer Sport 4X4
Sub
 

Sponsored

Chef jpd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Threads
63
Messages
3,015
Reaction score
3,148
Location
Brooklyn, NY
First Name
John
Vehicle(s)
2020 GT PP1 6M, Grab ass lime. Ex: 2016 EB PPP CO
Vehicle Showcase
1
Its 5 years old.......
 
 




Top