Anyone running distilled water + water wetter?

I would run this combo on all my previous track vehicles (motorcycles, miatas). Nothing beats straight water in terms of heat exchange ability.

Many people reference boiling point being higher for anti-freeze and incorrectly associate that with the engine running cooler... but what truly matters is the liquid's ability to exchange heat - which water excels in (better than anti-freeze).

So.... Anyone running distilled water + water wetter in their S550? Or should I stick to the orange stuff? I'm going to install the 170 degree thermostat and drain what's in there now, debating what to put back in.

I run the Orange Ford stuff 50/50 with a bottle of water wetter

I run distilled water and a bottle of water wetter. It dropped my cylinder head temp/ECT a good 10-15 degrees. At the same time, I installed the 170 thermostat. While that doesn't necessarily change the cooling capacity of the system, it does start the car off at a cooler level so it gives it a little better start point

Brent Dalton said:

I run distilled water and a bottle of water wetter. It dropped my cylinder head temp/ECT a good 10-15 degrees. At the same time, I installed the 170 thermostat at the same time. While that doesn't necessarily change the cooling capacity of the system, it does start the car off at a cooler level so it gives it a little better start point

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So the combination of the Water and the 170 stat, dropped your temps 10-15 degrees. Right?

Hard to say for certain for the hardcore engineer types. I didn't run the car in stock form, then change it out at the track, and run it with the new set up to reduce variables. Another thing to note is my car is a performance package so it has a larger radiator than non performance package cars.

What I am using for comparison to trace my logic: I was running at COTA in Feb 2016 with ambient temps around 80 degrees and was running CHT at around 225-240F with stock coolant mix and thermostat. After changing to the 100% distilled water, 1 bottle water wetter, and and the 170 thermostat the car ran between 215-225F at Road Atlanta in June 2016 with ambient temps well into the 90's and humidity significantly higher. Additionally, I saw a max of 220F two weekends ago at Road Atlanta, but ambient temps were significantly cooler. I'll be at NCM with ddozier this weekend. He has a little more hp than me(headers) and he fabbed a duct for his radiator so we'll probably compare CHT/ECT if anyone is interested.

Also, 2 weekends ago I finally got to test out my BMR cradle lockout and vertical links. Well worth the money

Thanks for the feedback - I have been looking to make some cooling mods for the summer FL heat before tracking the car. Was thinking the 170 stat and WW....and also working on some front brake cooling, and am trying to cool the diff down to stop that pesky overtemp warning.

Good to hear about the CB005 and Links! I have the same on my minimally modded PP GT that I track, and I absolutely love them!

The Army is moving me to Savannah this summer so, hopefully, I'll see you track side before too long. I was tracking diff temps through my ngauge religiously for a while, but I have an issue either with my sensor or wiring because my reading is frozen at 140 F and haven't had a chance to diagnose. Also just installed the front brake ducts last night. Hopefully, it'll make the pads and fluid last a little longer.

Good to know - I'll run distilled and water wetter as well then when I put the new thermostat in.

I was seeing 235 CHT at a track day last weekend. It was maybe 70 degrees out, but it was a tighter - lower speed track.

Also ordered the JLT brake cooling ducts - will be doing the thermostat + coolant flush, ducts, and tow hook together. Will report back my personal results.

Instead of water wetter take a look at Pencool 2000. http://penray.com/products/pencool-2000-engine-cooling-system-treatment/ much better corrosion resistance than water wetter IMHO.

Peter

BlkGT3 said:

Instead of water wetter take a look at Pencool 2000. http://penray.com/products/pencool-2000-engine-cooling-system-treatment/ much better corrosion resistance than water wetter IMHO.

Peter

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The corrosion factor is one reason I run coolant with Water Wetter. Although flushing the system twice a year might Help prevent that as well??

BMR Tech said:

Thanks for the feedback - I have been looking to make some cooling mods for the summer FL heat before tracking the car. Was thinking the 170 stat and WW....and also working on some front brake cooling, and am trying to cool the diff down to stop that pesky overtemp warning.

Good to hear about the CB005 and Links! I have the same on my minimally modded PP GT that I track, and I absolutely love them!

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What fluid are you running in the diff? I changed to RP and change it every three events. Since I made the change, I have never got the light again and I ran two events in 99 degree heat last Summer. Running stock fluid I got the light in 70 degree temperatures.

YMMV,
<TED>

tedj101 said:

What fluid are you running in the diff? I changed to RP and change it every three events. Since I made the change, I have never got the light again and I ran two events in 99 degree heat last Summer. Running stock fluid I got the light in 70 degree temperatures.

YMMV,
<TED>

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For the Royal Purple. FYI There is a thread dedicated to the rear differential cooling.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52324

I use BG 75W140 and haven't had a diff warning so far... but we'll see. I just pieced together a brake cooling scenario myself. I've always used the coolant that's in the car, no additives. Coolant temps never really has heated up enough to worry me. Of course now I am...

BMR Tech said:

Thanks for the feedback - I have been looking to make some cooling mods for the summer FL heat before tracking the car. Was thinking the 170 stat and WW....and also working on some front brake cooling, and am trying to cool the diff down to stop that pesky overtemp warning.

Click to expand...

That's my setup since I first got the car. Distilled, WW, 170 thermo. I rarely, if ever, see head temp above 225 and that's usually just briefly on a single lap. Typical temps are 210-215 during a session even with 90* ambient.

Wrap your exhaust before and around the diff....

Added the 170 tstat, water wetter and distilled before the track day last weekend.

Cylinder head temps were about 10 degrees lower - didn't see over 225 this time. Ambient was about 10 degrees hotter this weekend (83 vs 73).

Brake ducts also helped a lot, pedal feel was more consistent. Without the ducts I would start getting a touch of fade / losing some initial bite. This is with the AP racing calipers and ferodo ds2500 pads.