What are your track/AutoX alignment settings?

AceOne · Jun 1, 2016

Just a heads up on the sway bars. The front bar is much harder to remove and replace than in the S197 chassis. It has to be snaked out through one of the wheel wells. I had mine Powder coated Blue to match the car so it was wrapped to protect it going back in which made it even tighter fit snaking it back in place. They work great but it was a process. I also had it on a drive on lift but had the front raised up pretty high to give room for snaking the bar. A two point lift might be easier.

NvrFinished · Jun 1, 2016

Yes, I've heard the stories about the front sway bar - especially the bolt under the alternator. Unfortunately I'm going to be on jack stands.

Simmons-Racing · Jun 1, 2016

NvrFinished said:
Yes, I've heard the stories about the front sway bar - especially the bolt under the alternator. Unfortunately I'm going to be on jack stands.

Yea, it does suck to do.

Simmons

Plimmer · Jun 15, 2016

Here is my contribution:
Running a Yokohama Neova AD08R 305/30-19 on all four corners with the following specs:

Front:
Camber -2.5 deg
Toe 0.00

Rear:
Camber -2.5 deg
Toe 0.00

So the front seems to work well, temp testing after each 20 minute track session showed a nice even temp across the tire. 165deg if I remember correctly.

Rear is not right for my setup, inside tire temps tested 190deg and outside was 165deg, so clearly the inside is working much harder than the outside.

So my new spec for testing will be:
Front:
Camber -2.5 deg
Toe out 0.10 (want to see if this improves turn in)

Rear:
Camber -1.5 deg (Looking for an even tire temp)
Toe 0.00

Optimum Performance · Jun 15, 2016

The rear camber on the PP's is almost too much. Burned up a set of P-Zero's in an hour on an Auto-X course. *OK it may have been a Charity Event and maybe there was excessive drifitng involved but the inside peeled off. This was on stock suspension. I run about 2.5 with slight T/O up front with a square set up and it is very neutral. Turn in with cambered 285's makes it much more enjoyable. On public roads it will follow the crown but much better on track and even tire wear. If I ever remember to bring my temp gun I can verify it.

NightmareMoon · Jun 15, 2016

I'm running 2.4 front, 1.5 rear (stock ride height). Good to meet you at H2R today! Very nice car you've got there.

Watch out with the 0 toe in the rear. My understanding is that you want a little bit of toe in to keep the rear tucked putting power down out of a corner, and it helps keep it stable when spinning the wheels in a straight line. All that at the expense of a little extra tire wear

Competition Orange · Jun 16, 2016

The consensus seems to be a 1 degree difference on camber f/r.

NightmareMoon said:
Watch out with the 0 toe in the rear. My understanding is that you want a little bit of toe in to keep the rear tucked putting power down out of a corner, and it helps keep it stable when spinning the wheels in a straight line. All that at the expense of a little extra tire wear

This is what I read too, mainly for better corner exit on power.

Plimmer · Jun 16, 2016

NightmareMoon said:
I'm running 2.4 front, 1.5 rear (stock ride height). Good to meet you at H2R today! Very nice car you've got there.

Watch out with the 0 toe in the rear. My understanding is that you want a little bit of toe in to keep the rear tucked putting power down out of a corner, and it helps keep it stable when spinning the wheels in a straight line. All that at the expense of a little extra tire wear

Yeah, great to meet you too, wish I had made the effort to chat about our cars more, maybe next event.

Seems like -2.5 front and -1.5 rear is a good starting point. I'm lowered a bit, and I think this causes the rear to camber in even more as the suspension compresses.

I'm going to try one change at a time, so camber on rear first, then I'll try a toe in change.

Attached is the GT350 PP track specs for interest.

Sock · Jun 17, 2016

I run:

Front:
-3.2 degrees camber
9.5 degrees of caster
1/8th toe out

Rear:
-2.0 degrees camber
0-1/16th toe in

Competition Orange · Jun 24, 2016

I just had my camber bolts put in, and was able to get -2.9 drivers and -3.1 passenger front. HOWEVER, the drivers side wheel was rubbing the strut, so I had to back it down to -2.5. This was with my 18x10 CF5s with 275/40.

F:
Camber: -2.5
Toe: 0

R:
Camber: -1.5
Toe: 0.3 (total in, 0.15 in per wheel)

I will say that the added camber from just the springs (-1.8) was immediately noticeable with sharper turn in and additional front end traction.

qtrracer · Jun 30, 2016

I'm going with what I've learned from the Fox and sn95. Toe at zero (not a fan of toe-out despite alleged "better" turn-in). Camber as much as I can get but around -2.5*; Caster around +6*. Although a street car, I don't do road crown variations in my settings - i.e., so-called cross camber/caster.

thevillageidiot · Jul 10, 2016

Brent Dalton said:
Bump this up to see if anyone else has any input on their settings or what they are planning to run.

For me, this is my plan for the road course:

Wheels: Apex 18x10
Tires: Hoosier R7 295/40/18
Tire pressure: I'm going to start around 27F 27R probably and go from there.

aFe/Pfadt Coilovers and sway bars with maximum motorsports camber/caster plates.

Front-
Camber: somewhere between neg 3-3.5 (hoosiers like camber)
Caster: max and even
Toe Out: touch, probably 1/16th

Rear-
Camber: somewhere between neg 2-2.5
Toe In: 1/8th

If my wife doesn't have a baby by this weekend, I'm going to install the coilovers. I'll need probably 1/2in or so spacers to fit the 295 hoosiers in the front. That will also require longer studs. Rears fit fine with stock strut, will confirm if they still fit with rear coilovers without rubbing soon.

First shake down run with bet COTA at the end of February. Will report back then.

how have the apexs held up to track abuse?

tweekdout · Jul 10, 2016

More of a road course setup for me that has been getting tweaked at South East events at Road Atlanta, AMP, Sebring and recently 'Little Talladega' in Munford.

I get the flexibility on camber with Steeda plates & arms and the shocks adjustability from KW v3s. The KWs get varied a good deal but camber and toe not much ...

Front camber; -2.4 Toe; 0 Compression; -10 Rebound; -9 (from full hard)
Rear camber; -1.9 Toe; 0 Compression; -9 Rebound; -7 (from full hard)

Brent Dalton · Jul 11, 2016

thevillageidiot said:
how have the apexs held up to track abuse?

As good as new. No issues.

thevillageidiot · Jul 11, 2016

Brent Dalton said:
As good as new. No issues.

im not sure if you spend anytime autoxing but do you notice second being much shorter now that you are running 18s?

What are your track/AutoX alignment settings?

AceOne

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NvrFinished

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Simmons-Racing

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Plimmer

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Optimum Performance

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NightmareMoon

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Competition Orange

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Plimmer

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Sock

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Competition Orange

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qtrracer

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thevillageidiot

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tweekdout

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Brent Dalton

Sua Sponte

thevillageidiot

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