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Taking the S550 GT to the race track

sigintel

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Can't imagine why Ford would really chance a poor quality oil pump component knowing that these Gt's could possibly see severe duty during daily driving, cruises, trips, road courses etc. I would hope that they are replacing motors or the components damaged by such failures...
Sry, my post was misleading, corrected it. Please delete comment on old post

They didnt. The failures are in worst case situations with added forced induction that Ford did not develop this motor for.
It is NOT poor quality. Just not intended for cold thick oil at nearly 200% rated horsepower. The fact you can double the hp output of this motor is the real 50th anniversity gift from Ford. :ford:
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Sry, my post was misleading, corrected it. Please delete comment on old post

They didnt. The failures are in worst case situations with added forced induction that Ford did not develop this motor for.
It is NOT poor quality. Just not intended for cold thick oil at nearly 200% rated horsepower. The fact you can double the hp output of this motor is the real 50th anniversity gift from Ford. :ford:
On that topic, I see other threads in which people are fitting GT350 intake manifolds and revving the engine to 8 grand. Surely that is a motor on borrowed time?
 

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Sry, my post was misleading, corrected it. Please delete comment on old post

They didnt. The failures are in worst case situations with added forced induction that Ford did not develop this motor for.
It is NOT poor quality. Just not intended for cold thick oil at nearly 200% rated horsepower. The fact you can double the hp output of this motor is the real 50th anniversity gift from Ford. :ford:
No problem..actually never seen the comment..no offense taken. But in reality Ford should have already added better components to the oil pump system.
 

mnmike59

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On that topic, I see other threads in which people are fitting GT350 intake manifolds and revving the engine to 8 grand. Surely that is a motor on borrowed time?
Not at all, When you modify your engine, there is other mods you should do as well just to cover your butt. I have a gt350 IM, LTs, ported heads with 3" exhaust all the way back. Due to the higher RPMs I elected to upgrade the OPGs, timing gear and Harmonic balancer. I should be good to go now. (fingers crossed)
 
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spiller

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Not at all, When you modify your engine, there is other mods you should do as well just to cover your butt. I have a gt350 IM, LTs, ported heads with 3" exhaust all the way back. Due to the higher RPMs I elected to upgrade the OPGs, timing gear and Harmonic balancer. I should be good to go now. (fingers crossed)
Is the 350 IM/TB still a worthwhile upgrade without the exhaust mods to match? I will probably do axle backs for sound but cannot see myself forking out for the whole 9 yards. Peaky engines are my thing however so the IM is high on the list of priorities.
 

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Is the 350 IM/TB still a worthwhile upgrade without the exhaust mods to match? I will probably do axle backs for sound but cannot see myself forking out for the whole 9 yards. Peaky engines are my thing however so the IM is high on the list of priorities.
FWIW, even though people are adamant that catbacks are worth nothing, both times I've gone from stock resonator to an X-pipe I have gained noticeable improvement in top end pull. We're not talking big gains, but it is noticeable. The stock resonator has quite poor crossflow capability compared to an X-pipe. The increase in scavenging is powerful.
 
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spiller

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FWIW, even though people are adamant that catbacks are worth nothing, both times I've gone from stock resonator to an X-pipe I have gained noticeable improvement in top end pull. We're not talking big gains, but it is noticeable. The stock resonator has quite poor crossflow capability compared to an X-pipe. The increase in scavenging is powerful.
Makes sense, I guess I'll just have to live with the raspy exhaust note!
 

BmacIL

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Makes sense, I guess I'll just have to live with the raspy exhaust note!
There are quite a good number on the market that aren't particularly raspy. Resonator delete with stock mufflers is crazy raspy at WOT + high rpm and very tinny, too.
 

EFI

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If you see CHT above 230, try removing the rear engine bay cowl plastic and weather strip on underside of hoid. You will remove wiper arms to do this. Should drop your CHT by at least 15 or maybe 25 depending on your thermostat. With a Reische 170 it dropped mine by 35.
I road course a Whipple at 650rwhp with CHT 185-195 running 10/10
Wow those temps are impressive for a stock car, much less a Whippled one. So all you did is the tstat and open up the cowl? Was that hard to do?

On that topic, I see other threads in which people are fitting GT350 intake manifolds and revving the engine to 8 grand. Surely that is a motor on borrowed time?
8 grand kind of, but 7500 or so should be more than doable. Remember that this engine is pretty much the same exact thing as that in the Boss 302 and the GT4 (except for of course the pistons). Same crank, bearings, connecting rods and valvesprings.

If those cars can handle the kind of RPM they do, a GT with the Gen 2 coyote will for the most part do the same.
 
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spiller

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Wow those temps are impressive for a stock car, much less a Whippled one. So all you did is the tstat and open up the cowl? Was that hard to do?



8 grand kind of, but 7500 or so should be more than doable. Remember that this engine is pretty much the same exact thing as that in the Boss 302 and the GT4 (except for of course the pistons). Same crank, bearings, connecting rods and valvesprings.

If those cars can handle the kind of RPM they do, a GT with the Gen 2 coyote will for the most part do the same.
I did some reading and it seems lots of people are running between 7500
And 7850 rev limits without issues. 350 IM/TB making peak power at 7400 with 60 whp gains up top and 25hp overall. 2K is a lot for a small amount of overall gain but if it totally changes the way the engine makes its power in a good way then I'm all for it.

The comments about removing the cowl...it used to be a common thing in JDM cars to put washers under the hood hinges and remove the seal but it is my understanding that once you have air moving over the hood and windscreen, it is not an effective means for ventilation. Of course, I have not tried it on the Mustang so I may be completely wrong. Opening up the front grilles on the other hand...
 

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Opening up the front grilles on the other hand...
I also agree about the front grills, but at the same time if you get more air in you need more air out (which is why there's such a market for all those vented hoods). So I would imagine that in combination with the open grills you need to do something about the venting out if keeping the stock hood.
 

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Great feedback. How did the car feel on the FR track suspension? I had assumed that the stop the hop stuff would still be needed and might still do it as a matter of stiffening up the rear but good to know nonetheless. Any idea how much camber you were running? Where did the front tire bubble, on the sidewall? My experience with MPSS on the track is that they don't like lower hot pressures. I have accepted that I will need dedicated track wheels and tyres to avoid ruining my street tyres (Nitto NT01 275/40/18 will be my best bet). Was going to shoot for around -2.5 in the front and -1.8 in the rear. Camber bolts should allow this. Not really enough for r-compound but it's my daily driver so I have to compromise somewhere.
Blistered on the outer row of tread blocks (classic not enough camber symptom).
Camber was -1.5 F, -1.9 R.
Camber bolts will reduce tire clearance and may slip. So camber plates are a better long term solution.
FR Track suspension worked very well. It is a very nice dual purpose setup. It can be driven everyday, and still works well at the track. Just add more camber (ignore the FR suggested camber settings, or consider them street settings).

With camber plates I am going to shoot for -2 all around for my street setup, and start out increasing it to -3 F for the track.
 

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Blistered on the outer row of tread blocks (classic not enough camber symptom).
Camber was -1.5 F, -1.9 R.
Camber bolts will reduce tire clearance and may slip. So camber plates are a better long term solution.
FR Track suspension worked very well. It is a very nice dual purpose setup. It can be driven everyday, and still works well at the track. Just add more camber (ignore the FR suggested camber settings, or consider them street settings).

With camber plates I am going to shoot for -2 all around for my street setup, and start out increasing it to -3 F for the track.
Good to know. I'm at -1.5F, -1.3R for a balanced street setup, but knowing this I think I will invest in some plates so I can go up to -2 to -2.5. That said, I'm not as low and have stiffer spring rates than the FR Track setup so my roll centers and camber gain are more favorable to keeping the outside of the tire where it needs to be. That said, I'm still on the PP sway bars.
 
 




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