A=pillar tweeter questions

I have looked at the Crutchfield database for components and it appears that the vast majority of tweeters will not fit the stock location without modification. I am looking at the JL c3s as I have them in another car and am very pleased with their sound.

Has anyone not modified their stock tweeter grill and what were the results sound wise?

Has anyone run new speaker wire from the crossover to the tweeter?

What path was used for the new wire?

Thanks!

vnzbd said:

I have looked at the Crutchfield database for components and it appears that the vast majority of tweeters will not fit the stock location without modification. I am looking at the JL c3s as I have them in another car and am very pleased with their sound.

Has anyone not modified their stock tweeter grill and what were the results sound wise?

Has anyone run new speaker wire from the crossover to the tweeter?

What path was used for the new wire?

Thanks!

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i put a pair of pioneer component speakers in. took the little grill off and the new tweater popped right in from the front. i installed the crossover up high behind the kick panel plastic on each side. sounds so much better.

I ran some wire to my tweeters, and I did it the easy way not through the molex connector. I guess you can get through the molex, but people say it's hard. I put some black wire cover on them, and I never notice them. I'll take a picture when I get home. I really wish I wouldn't have ran new wire but I don't feel like going back and redoing it all.

Any 1" tweeter will fit in the stock a pillar. You can either surface mount it with a bit of dremel work, or use the stock mount and get it in behind the stock grill.
The JL components you noted will fit.
Also, why not just use the stock wiring? No gains to be had with bigger wires.
Kicker KST25

Chef, thank you. No issues with the stock wiring, completely agree.

What I am not clear on is just how the tweeter is wired on the base 6 speaker system. Is it just paralleled off of the woofer with an inline cap for a crossover? I want to completely bypass the factory crossover and install the JL. Is the parallel connection in the interior such as the kick panel or in the door? I wouldn't think that it is in the door since the tweeter is not... Do you know? Thanks.

Not sure on the 6 speaker, they might not even have a crossover.
I had a similar question about this on the 12 speaker. Is there a 3 way crossover for the 2 door speakers and pillar, or just a 2 way with the tweeter having a bass blocker?
I still don't know.

I would imagine that they just let the woofer roll of and bass block from the processing in the radio. The tweeter may just have a cap on the back. I guess I will just have to explore!

I have installed OEM's harness and did the line level conversion module today. I really need to change out the front as there is next to zero midbass...

I'm actually in the process of installing components up front and coaxials in the rear with a 4 channel amp.

The wires going into the woofer in the driver door and tweeter are the same colors, white(-) and white/brown(+) and the tweeter has a small cap on the back. I'm taking this to mean they are the same signal to both and have just tapped the wires in the driver kickpanel for the right speaker supply to the line in on the amp.

I'm not done yet as I'm trying to see what the best way is to get a 4 gauge wire through the firewall, but I'm hoping this will work out.

As far as wire to the tweeter I just ran it down beside the dash to the kick panel area where I plan to install the crossover. I dremeled out part of the bracket for the stock tweeter to hold the cup that came with the infinity tweeter and will be using the stock grill over it.

Sorry to hijack but what if I didn't want to change the stock tweeters? For example what if I put an inline passive 4 ohm crossover from the amp, and wired it to an aftermarket coaxial in the door, and then to the stock tweeter? I know it wouldn't be ideal sound wise but it would serve my purpose, i.e. a better door speaker and no messing around with the a pillar. I'm getting a Pioneer receiver and figured I'd do it all at once.

O

Mattwood440 said:

Sorry to hijack but what if I didn't want to change the stock tweeters? For example what if I put an inline passive 4 ohm crossover from the amp, and wired it to an aftermarket coaxial in the door, and then to the stock tweeter? I know it wouldn't be ideal sound wise but it would serve my purpose, i.e. a better door speaker and no messing around with the a pillar. I'm getting a Pioneer receiver and figured I'd do it all at once.

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I would only say that the stock tweeter is crap and the frequency response you would get on an aftermarket would be vastly superior. Even with the new one in the door, the placement is not good.

Also, the pillar is super easy to pop off.

Mattwood440 said:

Sorry to hijack but what if I didn't want to change the stock tweeters? For example what if I put an inline passive 4 ohm crossover from the amp, and wired it to an aftermarket coaxial in the door, and then to the stock tweeter? I know it wouldn't be ideal sound wise but it would serve my purpose, i.e. a better door speaker and no messing around with the a pillar. I'm getting a Pioneer receiver and figured I'd do it all at once.

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In the stage 3 speaker install video they're installing coaxial in the door and leaving the stock tweeter. I would do it that way and not add an extra crossover. Not sure how it will sound though.

Banjo said:

In the stage 3 speaker install video they're installing coaxial in the door and leaving the stock tweeter. I would do it that way and not add an extra crossover. Not sure how it will sound though.

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I have done this in a 2016 Mustang and a 2014 F150. Using just the coax in the fronts is more than enough. I think that having the extra tweeter in the 6 1/2 really makes the stock tweeters seem to come to life. Don't know why but they sound brighter and bring the stage more to the front. If you use a component set you don't want to separate them that much anyways. So using the factory tweets with coaxes is like installing upstage tweets.

latemade5.8 said:

I have done this in a 2016 Mustang and a 2014 F150. Using just the coax in the fronts is more than enough. I think that having the extra tweeter in the 6 1/2 really makes the stock tweeters seem to come to life. Don't know why but they sound brighter and bring the stage more to the front. If you use a component set you don't want to separate them that much anyways. So using the factory tweets with coaxes is like installing upstage tweets.

Click to expand...

This is what I'm going to do. Keep it simple. If I were a true audiophile I'd do what the OP is doing.

So what is the answer to the above regarding how the factory wiring is done between the door speaker and factory tweeter? Did you end up using the factory wiring or did you run new? It would be really nice to know where exactly the split is for the front door speaker and the oem tweeter so you could tap in an aftermarket component crossover there and not mess with running new wire.

go to thread on sub woofer the factory wire is detailed