Need some suggestions for adding budget amplifier sub to base audio system

I had the P300-12 installed and I love it. I think my installer tapped into the front speakers, but not 100% sure. I tried to find an email or text from him when I asked him but couldn't find it. My installer charged $150, with parts included. I added a chunk of foam between the rear deck and the sub box so it wouldn't flop around. It is "velcroed" to the trunk floor as well. It is not audiophile quality but it adds some much needed low end to my 400a system.

Pics here:
http://imgur.com/a/dibtU

Good luck with the install

I have that Scosche LOC2SL and am not happy with it. I have my amp gain set to max and it's still not pushing the sub enough. The amp is not getting enough signal. I tried to turn up the pots on the LOC but I can't get them to budge. Considering getting an LC2i, but then I have to spend extra to get the remote, but I would like to have it for some recordings which are lacking in bass.

Subd.

Since my car got wrecked and is in the shop I removed the sub box and amp. When I put it back, I don't want the same LOC which does not drive the amp enough. So let's revisit LOC's for a moment. What do you all use? I budget up to $100. I would like a front knob control. Right now with the Scosche LOC my amp gain is set to max and I get enough bass, but I know there is lots more there. I have a nice used PAC SNI-35 in my stocks that worked well on the same setup in Ford Truck years ago, but I would like a bass knob. Right now Audio Control LC2i looks like best bet with it's bass roll off correction. My amp already has a built-in crossover. It's a Vintage Earthquake amp in great shape.

EDIT: I went ahead and ordered the LC2i and the remote knob for it. It's expensive for an LOC, but I expect a marked improvement over what I had before. I will update with results. It will be nice to correct for the factory roll off of bass frequencies at higher volumes.

I have a question regarding this matter as well. I have already bought new replacement speakers for the front doors, tweeters and rear deck. I also have a sub as well. My question is this: I want to add a 5 channel amp to power everything, which line out converter do I need? The 2 or 4 channel? I thought this through but I still think something s wrong with my thinking. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!

I am going this route. Now I have the 9 speaker system and just wanted some more base.

So I went with an Alpine MRV-M500, a LC2ib, a Kicker Compvr 10 I had laying around from old car. I task cartronics here in Miami to build me a custom box that fits in the same area that the Shaker pro does, in the back corner. It should be done by Weds.

I used a Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered sub. Mounted it under the passenger seat and tapped into the rear speaker wiring in the l/f kick panel. Took about 4 hours to install. Very impressed how much it changed the overall sound of the system. Think I Paid about $160 for the unit.

mustang6t9 said:

I used a Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered sub. Mounted it under the passenger seat and tapped into the rear speaker wiring in the l/f kick panel. Took about 4 hours to install. Very impressed how much it changed the overall sound of the system. Think I Paid about $160 for the unit.

Click to expand...

Did you make a molex plugged bypass cable, or did you just use wire taps to get signal? More details please.

BlownGT-Racing said:

I have a question regarding this matter as well. I have already bought new replacement speakers for the front doors, tweeters and rear deck. I also have a sub as well. My question is this: I want to add a 5 channel amp to power everything, which line out converter do I need? The 2 or 4 channel? I thought this through but I still think something s wrong with my thinking. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!

Click to expand...

This could depend on which amp you choose.
If you get an amp that has hi/speaker level inputs, you won't need a LOC. For example, this Pioneer amp has both RCA & hi/speaker level inputs;
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD9605/Pioneer-GM-D9605.html?tp=35808

If you get an amp without hi/speaker level inputs, then the 2/4 channel question depends on whether the amp sums its inputs internally... eg: can it take a 2 channel input and create a 4 channel output... most modern amps can do this.

In my opinion, the fewer number of components you put in the signal path the better, so I would recommend going with an amp that has built in hi/speaker level inputs.

Interesting to see a under the seat option as our space is so limited there. I have a like setup in my daily with JL 6.5s sealed and love it. Not crazy bass but very solid. Tactile. Curious if it would fit under the drivers as well for a non powered seat.

chipmaker said:

Did you make a molex plugged bypass cable, or did you just use wire taps to get signal? More details please.

Click to expand...

The connector that is in the r/f kick panel has the wires leading to the rear speaker. I just stripped back some of the insulation and soldered my wires going to the subwoofer.

My build so far. It should be done by tomorrow. Have the Alpine amp in with the LC2ib on a platform.







That is the custom box. Fits perfectly in the spot, and they will anchor it to the same anchors that the JL box uses. That box was built for my 10. It will be finished off with matching carpet, and a glass enclosure piece.

UPDATE: ! So my system is done and it sounds great ! Just what I wanted, some boom to go with my system. As for the rest, well that's in the future. I have the ground work to upgrade easily now, but as I said I just wanted some base. My 10 is working fabulously







I have the bass knob under my dash to the left. I'm happy with how it all came out. The box is mounted and connected to the stock mount points.

Ninjak said:

UPDATE: ! So my system is done and it sounds great ! Just what I wanted, some boom to go with my system. As for the rest, well that's in the future. I have the ground work to upgrade easily now, but as I said I just wanted some base. My 10 is working fabulously

I have the bass knob under my dash to the left. I'm happy with how it all came out. The box is mounted and connected to the stock mount points.

Click to expand...

Looks good. Do you have a pic of bass knob?

Here is where the base knob is.