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BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

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BmacIL

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[MENTION=10281]BmacIL[/MENTION]I have done it with my car on jack stands with the wheels off and sway bars disconnected. I used the jack under the brake rotor to compress the suspension until it barely lifted off the jack stand on the corner I was working on then loosened and tightened the suspension points that have rubber bushings.
Do you know that you got the bushings to their new nominal set points by doing that? You'd have to measure wheel center to fender at ride height and jack the suspension up that much. Not sure if you can do that and keep it on stands. Maybe with the bars disconnected it's possible.
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I did have the sway bars disconnected at the end links when doing it this way. Most of my suspension points with bushings have been replaced though with bearings. I only have the upper inner camber arm in the rear with a poly bushing and the front forward control arms.
 

BmacIL

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We'll see how it works on my car and friend's car. We're building some wheel cribs that will lift the car 10.5". Hopefully it's enough room.
 

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Here is an updated pic that may help you guys out.
I have my BMR springs on and am ready to "clock" the bushings.

This picture doesn't show the outer control arm bolt (203 ft/lbs.) that was shown on the color-coded photo indicating which bushings to "clock" in the GT suspension Torque Numbers thread.

Am I to take it they should or shouldn't be "clocked".

Right now based on that photo it looks like I need to "clock" 7 bushings in the rear per side for a total of 14? Or do I add the outer control arm?

Also, the front looks like only two per side need to be done?

Thanks!
 
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I have my BMR springs on and am ready to "clock" the bushings.

This picture doesn't show the outer control arm bolt (203 ft/lbs.) that was shown on the color-coded photo indicating which bushings to "clock" in the GT suspension Torque Numbers thread.

Am I to take it they should or shouldn't be "clocked".

Right now based on that photo it looks like I need to "clock" 7 bushings in the rear per side for a total of 14? Or do I add the outer control arm?

Also, the front looks like only two per side need to be done?

Thanks!
If it is not boxed and noted in the picture, then it really doesnt need to be indexed.

It doesn't "hurt" to do it, but only mounts that have rubber within them are the ones I recommend. :thumbsup:
 

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When doing springs only, there is no bushing that needs to be reclocked? Or are you saying they need to be re clocked to the new squat from the drop?
 

BmacIL

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When doing springs only, there is no bushing that needs to be reclocked? Or are you saying they need to be re clocked to the new squat from the drop?
Anytime the height is changed, the bushings should be re-clocked. Doing springs is the usual case for this.
 

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Correct me if Im wrong but a simple way to do this without a lift is to take a rough measurement of the hunb center to the fender and use a floor jack to replicate.
 

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Anytime the height is changed, the bushings should be re-clocked. Doing springs is the usual case for this.
Underatand. I was confused cause none of those joints were touched for just springs.
 
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Correct me if Im wrong but a simple way to do this without a lift is to take a rough measurement of the hunb center to the fender and use a floor jack to replicate.
Well yes, but the issue is that you cannot replicate the loaded height with a jack. :thumbsup:
 

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BmacIL

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Underatand. I was confused cause none of those joints were touched for just springs.
They have to be reset to new nominal positions. If you don't, the rubber will be preloaded and can hurt the ride and in some cases, prevent the suspension from settling.
 
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They have to be reset to new nominal positions. If you don't, the rubber will be preloaded and can hurt the ride and in some cases, prevent the suspension from settling.
And don't forget, premature bushing failure.

Pretty common on the toe knuckle side bushing. ;)
 

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And don't forget, premature bushing failure.

Pretty common on the toe knuckle side bushing. ;)
I know there is no exact answer, but can I do the work at one location, and then drive, say, 10 miles to a second location where I can use a 4-post lift to clock the bushings?

Or do I really have to perform the work where the lift is?
 

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Clock those bushings after lowering your S550

Here is an updated pic that may help you guys out.
Hoping to get some info on the best way to do this, if you don't have a lift that puts weight on all four tires,,this pic only shows the rear,,,,wondering if everyone does this , including shops.....
click on the arrow next to the BMR Tech to see pic...
 

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Hoping to get some info on the best way to do this, if you don't have a lift that puts weight on all four tires,,this pic only shows the rear,,,,wondering if everyone does this , including shops.....
click on the arrow next to the BMR Tech to see pic...
The alternative is to jack up the control arm to where it would sit if it were loaded.
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