Parts Express midrange

I am looking at midrange speakers from parts express to install in a base model 6 speaker system. JL silk tweeters are installed in the A pillars. I will be using the electronic xover in my amp and will band pass the mids around 70 to 4k Hz. I am looking at this two.

https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-2090-6-1-2-extreme-conditions-woofer-2-ohm--264-964

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180p-4-7-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-375

The Tang is a 2 ohm which will run the amp at 100wpc, well over the rating of the speaker.

Does anyone have any experience with either of these 2 drivers or just general opinions? Thx.

vnzbd said:

I am looking at midrange speakers from parts express to install in a base model 6 speaker system. JL silk tweeters are installed in the A pillars. I will be using the electronic xover in my amp and will band pass the mids around 70 to 4k Hz. I am looking at this two.

https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-2090-6-1-2-extreme-conditions-woofer-2-ohm--264-964

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180p-4-7-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-375

The Tang is a 2 ohm which will run the amp at 100wpc, well over the rating of the speaker.

Does anyone have any experience with either of these 2 drivers or just general opinions? Thx.

Click to expand...

The TB's are way too deep for our doors and the Daytons are probably too deep as well. The stock speakers, before subtracting the built in spacer is around 2 3/8" deep. It's best to stick with a car audio 6.5" speaker as they typically are shallower and are made for the moist environment of a car door.

Thank you mumbles. Good advise that will be heeded.

vnzbd said:

Thank you mumbles. Good advise that will be heeded.

Click to expand...

No problem. FWIW, even if you use car audio specific speakers, I would recommend using some foam baffles to protect them because our doors get a LOT of water in them!

Something like this is what I'm suggesting;
https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_237X...a&awnw=g&awcr=48387289585&awdv=c&awug=9015321

If you are worried about the "enclosure" changing the response of your speaker, just open a small slit along the bottom side. I used the smaller versions on my mids as well although they required some cutting, heating and reforming to fit.

I am interested in the same info....on the large (LARGE) sticky thread, someone measured and I am looking to see if i understand it correctly...

He said...
--------------------
So i took my door panel off and went on a measuring spree:

Front 6.5" Speaker
Mounting hole: 5.75" diameter
Spacer: 1" depth + .25" foam
Speaker with spacer: 2.75" depth
Stock Magnet: 2 7/8" width
Mounting Depth: 5.5"

Window rolled all the way down:
Depth partially reduced to 2.75"
Window protrusion in mounting hole: 1" of the 5.75" diameter
-------------------------------

He also mentioned that he measured at the metal of the door. So if i understand this, from the metal of the door there is 2.75 inches till it interferes with the window...however, there is also about 1" of spacer built into the old door speakers. So if we can add a 1" spacer, we can put a 3.75" speaker in there....am i reading this correctly?

Nope... the stock speaker with the built is spacer measures 2 3/8" deep. Measuring from the bottom of the spacer to the depth of the magnet yields about 1 11/16" plus less than 1/8" for the gasket.

In other words, the part of the speaker that protrudes into the door is only 1 11/16" and the spacer measures closer to 5/8".

On the face of my speaker, I can see where the 1/4" foam gasket has made contact with the door card. That means that you have little wiggle room to increase the size of the spacer, but not much.

If you go with a speaker that has a mounting depth of 2 3/8" and use a 5/8" spacer you should be fine. Anything beyond that and I'd actually measure the distance between the window and the door surface.