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Third gear lockout

fcarpio

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Not trying to beat a dead horse here. I looked it up as I am experiencing this issue when shifting from 2nd to 3rd on spirited driving. I read a lot that this is user error, but I have been driving manual transmission cars all my life, I have only owned one automatic transmission and that was my truck, and I have never had this issue before. Others say that this issue can be alleviated with a short throw shifter, but others say that this is a clutch issue.

So how do you guys/gals have alleviated or fixed this issue?
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Bert03GT

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I put a MGW and it fixed it for me. I haven't been locked out once sense then. Ive heard there's other things that can be done to help but I wanted a more crisp shift. I wish I would've put the MGW in on day one.
 
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fcarpio

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I put a MGW and it fixed it for me. I haven't been locked out once sense then. Ive heard there's other things that can be done to help but I wanted a more crisp shift. I wish I would've put the MGW in on day one.
Thanks.

I forgot to mention that I am boosted and from what I hear that makes the problem worse due to the increased HP. Are you boosted?
 

stasg11

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Not trying to beat a dead horse here. I looked it up as I am experiencing this issue when shifting from 2nd to 3rd on spirited driving. I read a lot that this is user error, but I have been driving manual transmission cars all my life, I have only owned one automatic transmission and that was my truck, and I have never had this issue before. Others say that this issue can be alleviated with a short throw shifter, but others say that this is a clutch issue.

So how do you guys/gals have alleviated or fixed this issue?
same for me my last 2 cars all stick shifts and never had the issue i remember it happened to me on my test drives on both eco and gt
from what i have seen some say change the trans fluid forgot the company name

what i have done is blowfish bracket and the shim trans mount bushing and a short throw shifter
i can honestly say it has helped..... only a bit felt like the blowfish didnt do anything 250+ and it happened again within 1 mile of driving
and it still happens sometimes

i havent done the fluid swap yet
I will eventually get a new trans mounted shifter but dont want to spend that much right now
 

stang17

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MGW shifter with BG synchro shift fluid will do you right!
 

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dgc333

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The issue is the tranny mount and the shifter mount are very soft and during spirited driving everything is moving and you just wind up missing the gate inside the tranny. All any of the after market shifters do is keep the relationship of the shifter to the tranny constant so you don't miss.

You can get 90% of the way there with the above mentioned tranny insert and the Energy Suspension shifter bushing. Kind of a no brainer considering you can get both for less than $50.
 

mikeD4V

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On my second clutch under 30k miles. Had lockout from 3rd to 4th on second clutch as well. If the clutch pedal falls to the floor and the shifter doesn't want to go into gear your clutch isn't dead, just pull up on the pedal, lower your rpms, and carry on. If/when it goes, you'll progressively lose engagement and it's very noticeable. The factory semi-remote shifter design reduces nvh but it also causes the lockout. Under load, the shifter ends up in a bind that causes it to twist, resulting in missed shifts from gate lockout and the synchro gears grinding.

Had a shifter bushing which worked fine for daily driving but any high rpm shifts were still locked out. Added the blowfish bracket and switched to redline mtl fluid; 1-2 hour job on jack stands. Shifts are smooth and accurate now with no lockout. Got some minor nvh since it bolts the shifter to the trans mount and locks the linkage making it a direct link. Basically it does what the race spec shifters do, locking the shifter to the body/trans mount, but you don't get the short shift. It also has an NHRA approved DS loop built in if you have a one piece DS. If you also want a shorter shift then a shifter is for you.

The trans fluid should be a GL-4 75w80 or 75w90. You'll need 2.7 quarts and an 8mm hex key. Factory fill is XT-11 QDC. Redline MTL is ~$15/qt. BG synchro shift II is also popular and is ~$22/qt.
 

moffetts

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I have an MGW, Whipple, and BG fluid and it's all happy. If I miss, I messed up.
 

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I have the Steeda Tri-Ax shifter. I switched to BG fluid buuuut I still experience 3rd Gear lock-out during spirited driving (high revs).

My question, has anyone installed the Blowfish Bracket in addition to the Steeda Tri-Ax shifter? I'm thinking of going this route to cure the lock-outs...
 

BmacIL

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MGW shifter with BG synchro shift fluid will do you right!
This and don't look back. Best shifting experience for this car, no question. A trans mount bushing replacement (Boomba) or insert (Steeda, Whiteline) also helps, but adds some significant NVH.
 

ctandc72

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ctandc72

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Well I take that back. I got a high RPM 3rd gear lockout last night. I've been experimenting with different shift knobs since I installed the Boomba racing shifter. I've literally used the same metal Hurst T-Handle for probably close to 20 years in every one of my daily driver / project cars (all stick shift) and I ended up trying a heavy weighted shift knob I had sitting around, plus the stock knob, plus the T-handle.

FYI - I've done the Energy Suspension bushing, Steeda clutch spring, change to RP Syncromesh fluid and the Boomba shifter. And the Steeda insert bushing is in the back seat waiting to get installed as well.

I've been driving a manual transmission car since I before I could legally drive (and that was right at 30 years ago). I've daily driven 400+ HP cars, I've driven 3 speeds, 4 speeds, 5 speeds, 6 speeds from just about every manufacturer.

If I've learned anything, I've learned that every transmission has its own "quirks" and also had its own sweet spots - in other words - how it likes to be driven / shifted for best performance. Apparently the Mt82 is no different.

What I found was that it likes a little 'upward' pressure when shifting and the 2-3 shift goes much smoother (and faster) with more of a 'slap' letting the shifter / transmission guide itself through the gate.

After that adjustment, I went back to my old T-handle and proceeded to make more than a few high RPM shifts without any lockouts. Well except once. I thought it was a lockout. Apparently I was paying more attention to shifting than I was the tach. Bounced the rev limiter. :shrug:
 
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fcarpio

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Are you saying that if I lift up the shifter going from 2nd to 3rd I could avoid the lockout at high rpms? This is without making any mods to my car?
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