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Changing Thermostat

Tele5.0

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I searched but don't see any real details on this...

Last thermostat I changed was back in the late 90s on probably an LT1.

Is there anything special to doing this? I will be taking the stock airbox and tube off for easy access. I just dont know how much fluid I will lose or what I need to do to make sure I dont have air in the system once I am done.:shrug:

I thought there might be a DIY but I am sure this is so simple I am just over thinking it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!~
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Lonmon

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Take the intake tube off, remove the hose to the thermostat housing outlet. You will lose about a quart of antifreeze from that. Then remove the two 8mm bolts holding the housing outlet on. Once you pop out the stock thermostat you will lose another quart to half gallon of antifreeze. Put it back together in the reverse order. I used redline water wetter and distilled water to fill the system back up. If you do this make sure to check the temp the antifreeze is good to for the winter months. I let the engine run with the cap to the overflow tank off after I topped it off for about 15 minutes to get the air out. Just keep an eye on it and the temp gauge. After that take it for a quick drive then shut it down and let it cool completely. At that point you will see if you need to top it off. Good luck!
 
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Tele5.0

Tele5.0

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Take the intake tube off, remove the hose to the thermostat housing outlet. You will lose about a quart of antifreeze from that. Then remove the two 8mm bolts holding the housing outlet on. Once you pop out the stock thermostat you will lose another quart to half gallon of antifreeze. Put it back together in the reverse order. I used redline water wetter and distilled water to fill the system back up. If you do this make sure to check the temp the antifreeze is good to for the winter months. I let the engine run with the cap to the overflow tank off after I topped it off for about 15 minutes to get the air out. Just keep an eye on it and the temp gauge. After that take it for a quick drive then shut it down and let it cool completely. At that point you will see if you need to top it off. Good luck!

Thanks Lonmon!!! :thumbsup: Sounds easy enough!
 

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To add to it. The thermostat is in the housing facing the drivers side. I made the mistake of starting to lossen the bolts facing the front of the car thinking the thermostat was facing that way. It was an obvious mistake once I realized it but if it saves you some trouble, keep that in mind. Hope that makes sense. I think it will once you get in there.
 

redline727

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Is there a gasket or o-ring that needs to be replaced or does it come with the lowered t-stat you get from Beef, Lund or Lethal? I thought water wetter was supposed to be mixed in with a complete coming system drain? Can you add it in a situation like this?
 

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Is there any difference in install for PP cars with the oil cooler? I looked under my intake and see two sets of bolts one set facing the radiator and one set facing the the driver side fender. Does the T stat sit in the block or in the neck that the hose is on?
 

Lonmon

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Mine is PP as well. The thermostat is in the one with the bolts pointed toward the Drivers side. Thermostat will be stuck on the block side after you pull off the hose and outlet.
 

foghat

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Is there a gasket or o-ring that needs to be replaced or does it come with the lowered t-stat you get from Beef, Lund or Lethal? I thought water wetter was supposed to be mixed in with a complete coming system drain? Can you add it in a situation like this?
The 170 comes with its own gasket. Make sure the stock one is not left in the housing.

Is there any difference in install for PP cars with the oil cooler? I looked under my intake and see two sets of bolts one set facing the radiator and one set facing the the driver side fender. Does the T stat sit in the block or in the neck that the hose is on?
Neck that hose is on - the 2 bolts facing down and to the driver's fender.

I drained the rad and overflow before - instead of losing that quart (or whatever) that spills out - and then settles on the skid plate (or whatever that cover is).

There is a drain valve on the bottom of the rad, passenger side. 3/8 inch hose fits on the valve.

Remove the spaces below

http://www.s v tperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?855159-SVTPerformance-Cooler-Heads-Prevail-Reische-Thermostat-Install
 

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redline727

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The 170 comes with its own gasket. Make sure the stock one is not left in the housing.



Neck that hose is on - the 2 bolts facing down and to the driver's fender.

I drained the rad and overflow before - instead of losing that quart (or whatever) that spills out - and then settles on the skid plate (or whatever that cover is).

There is a drain valve on the bottom of the rad, passenger side. 3/8 inch hose fits on the valve.

Remove the spaces below

http://www.s v tperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?855159-SVTPerformance-Cooler-Heads-Prevail-Reische-Thermostat-Install
Thanks! [emoji106]
 

Lonmon

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What does the water wetter do?
It helps transfer more heat from the engine then water and coolant alone. Engine runs a little cooler. It works better with less coolant concentration but you have to be careful if you live in a cold climate or going into the winter. You can get a tester and check to make sure you don't over dilute the coolant so it doesn't freeze.
 

beefcake

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yep, def check for old gasket!
 

evo8904

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The 170 comes with its own gasket. Make sure the stock one is not left in the housing.



Neck that hose is on - the 2 bolts facing down and to the driver's fender.

I drained the rad and overflow before - instead of losing that quart (or whatever) that spills out - and then settles on the skid plate (or whatever that cover is).

There is a drain valve on the bottom of the rad, passenger side. 3/8 inch hose fits on the valve.

Remove the spaces below

http://www.s v tperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?855159-SVTPerformance-Cooler-Heads-Prevail-Reische-Thermostat-Install
You don't need to drain the radiator. Just use a hose clamp.
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