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Sputtering and Hesitation WOT/Spark Plugs??

TheLion

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I'll certainly try! I'll figure out how to do it and report back. I went to a dyno event this afternoon and the car performed surprisingly well for it being a 90F and moderately humid day.
Its always good to keep a set of OE plugs on hand. They are a good fall back when diagnosing ignition issues. The ngks have been good in my car so far but I'm only at 2k on them so well see if they start to foul up as they are 1 step colder. If they do ill be going back for fomoco oe. Livernois did recommend ngk for those dead set on not using the oe plug but it sounds like either a quality issue or installation issue baring they weren't fouling. Pics would tell us if fouling had any play in it.
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Blyman93

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I had this problem and it turned out to be the pre cat O2 sensor. I found a new one on the www.RockAuto.com website for like $23. It runs great now.
We're you stock? Catless? This is something I haven't considered or checked. What was your issue?
 

krack999

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Bad O2 sensors from the factory?

I had this problem and it turned out to be the pre cat O2 sensor. I found a new one on the www.RockAuto.com website for like $23. It runs great now.
Wait, how many miles did you have before you swapped the Pre-cat O2 sensor? This part is really important because your closed loop A/F ratio depends on the data this device sends to the PCM.

Just curious. I've noticed on my 2017 MT Ecoboost Performance Pack that I have some hesitation as well, especially at Tip In. I had the Ford Performance Power Pak installed several months ago. I'm in a reasonable gear and RPM as well. It's still way better now with the Power Pack. I'm running NGK 6510's as well except the gap is set to 0.030.

I'm running top tier gas. I was going to lower the gap to 0.028 or possibly put the stock plugs back in. Everything else is stock on the car except the Ford Power Pack.
 

Rsackett78

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My car is modified. Catless exhaust and tune along with many other things. But I only had maybe 15,000 on it when it went out. It set a code for the heater element being burnt out. As soon as I replaced it it seems to come back to life....big difference, must have been bad for a while.
 

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smdandb2

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I had to replace one of my o2s as well. I honestly dont remember which one it was though.

Had a catless downpipe on my car for a bit, and got a CEL. Replaced o2, CEL gone.

Come to think about it, I think replacing the o2 fixed my part throttle low boost hesitation. Under 10psi at part throttle my car was always hesitating and stumbling, even when it was brand new. I just assumed it was a shitty calibration from Ford. Even going thru various tunes the problem remained so I just assumed that is how it should have been.

I don't exactly remember WHEN the hesitation went away, but I know with the VS2 turbo I do not have it anymore.
 

Turbong

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I had to replace one of my o2s as well. I honestly dont remember which one it was though.

Had a catless downpipe on my car for a bit, and got a CEL. Replaced o2, CEL gone.

Come to think about it, I think replacing the o2 fixed my part throttle low boost hesitation. Under 10psi at part throttle my car was always hesitating and stumbling, even when it was brand new. I just assumed it was a shitty calibration from Ford. Even going thru various tunes the problem remained so I just assumed that is how it should have been.

I don't exactly remember WHEN the hesitation went away, but I know with the VS2 turbo I do not have it anymore.
Is it part MOTORCRAFT DY1295? Is this why maybe mine doesn't idle the way I think it should, might try to swap it out.
 

smdandb2

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Is it part MOTORCRAFT DY1295? Is this why maybe mine doesn't idle the way I think it should, might try to swap it out.
Alright, found an email I sent regarding mine.

I got a code P0141 which is O2 Heater Bank 1 Sensor 2, so the post cat sensor.

I know I replaced it with a Motorcraft one, but I cant find my order confirmation on what one. I just remember it was cheap.
 

Juben

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Is it part MOTORCRAFT DY1295? Is this why maybe mine doesn't idle the way I think it should, might try to swap it out.
The downstream (wideband) is FR3Z-9F472-A (DY-1306).
 

Turbong

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Alright, found an email I sent regarding mine.

I got a code P0141 which is O2 Heater Bank 1 Sensor 2, so the post cat sensor.

I know I replaced it with a Motorcraft one, but I cant find my order confirmation on what one. I just remember it was cheap.
Yea that's the only cheap one, the other DY1306 is $41 not exactly cheap.
 

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smdandb2

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Here I was thinking $41 was cheap. Most O2 sensors are priced much higher for a wideband.
No shit, LOL!

$41 is dirt ass cheap for a wideband.
 
 




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