Kangarooing down the road.

Yes the Steeda Clutch spring is clearly a "no brainer first option" for issues such as this.

LINK to ONLINE SHOP https://www.steeda.co.uk/steeda-s550-mustang-clutch-spring-assist-35-lb-in-c2x19786028

Gibbo205 said:

No issues with mine, but I have steeda clutch spring, makes a world of difference and cost like £10

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Do we get discount from Steeda Uk, or free shipping as 6G members?

not if you only order that. 8)

I always say the best way to get free shipping on a clutch spring is to order it with something else, hehe.

If you dont have an IRS base Pack, why not get that as well. We say its a must have for every Mustang really and it too might help you with your kangaroo problem., and the base pack is sub £200.

IRS Base pack Shop Link: https://www.steeda.co.uk/steeda-s550-mustang-irs-base-pack-c2x22649870

Just ordered the clutch spring They easy to install?

supersnedz said:

Just ordered the clutch spring They easy to install?

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Once you've got the engine and box out they're a breeze

Enoch said:

Once you've got the engine and box out they're a breeze

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I hope this is a joke hahaha:eyebulge:

supersnedz said:

I hope this is a joke hahaha:eyebulge:

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No he's not joking. Just bring your car to me and I'll remove them for you. Just think of all the worry I'll be saving you. No oil or water pump problems, no oil cooler problems, you'll never break your gearbox. I'm doing you a big favour.

I just went on the Steeda site and noticed the price of the clutch spring has been reduced by £2 to £13:98.

The £9 shipping is a bit much, but the spring is apparently worth having so hey ho!!

Enoch said:

Once you've got the engine and box out they're a breeze

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My approach was a little different, I left the engine and box in situ and removed the body :headbonk:

A very good mod though although I can't remember what it was like before as I only drove about 30 miles home before swapping the old one out.

I didn't have the recommended snipe-nosed pliers handy so looped three thick cable ties around the coils of the original spring, pulled them tight and it popped out, reverse procedure for putting the new one in (cut the ties afterwards!)

I do need to sort out the height differential of the brake and accelerator pedal though as with a fused right ankle my range of movement is limited.

[MENTION=26630]PeterE[/MENTION] if you order our pedal kits perhaps you can space them to what you want?

https://www.steeda.co.uk/steeda-s550-pedal-sets-c2x21133391

Mine kangaroo'd this morning, never did it before. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the tune/parts I've just had fitted. It only seems to do it from a standing pull way not while moving and shifting and seems fine once warmed up. It feels like the cars struggling to smoothly put the power down, like somethings holding it back.

GR11M said:

Mine kangaroo'd this morning, never did it before. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the tune/parts I've just had fitted. It only seems to do it from a standing pull way not while moving and shifting and seems fine once warmed up. It feels like the cars struggling to smoothly put the power down, like somethings holding it back.

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worth pinging your tuner a few datalogs of it and asking them to check.

GR11M said:

Mine kangaroo'd this morning, never did it before. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the tune/parts I've just had fitted. It only seems to do it from a standing pull way not while moving and shifting and seems fine once warmed up. It feels like the cars struggling to smoothly put the power down, like somethings holding it back.

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Sounds like a cold fuelling issue to me, datalog the first 5 minutes of driving and make sure you make the issue happen, then send the logs in, they will take a lot and see what they can do.

I've no idea what setup your using, but when I was on PMAS the throttle was a bit yuck when cold and a tad touchy when warm, it was the fuelling slightly out, once that was done it drove quite nice.

Also by default Lund really turn up the DBW (drive by wire) system so normal mode feels like race mode and sport/race are super sensitive, seems many love this, I personally hated it and requested stock DBW and throttle tables as the extra ignition timing, 350 IM even with everything stock is still more sensitive than stock.

Nothing drives better on these cars than the stock intake, absolutely nothing but the difference is Ford probably spend thousands of hours perfecting its driving smoothness in all climates blah blah blah.

Its still unknown if the stock intake is really a true restriction, with a panel filter, carbon part removed and sound resonators removed its quite a good flowing intake and it also benefits from air if you add a velossa to it, something none of the open setups can do.

I was at one point tempted to strap the stock intake to my GT 350 IM and run it against the GT 350 CAI, of course with the hood closed in test to make it real world and fair.

The reason most CAI's show dyno gains is they are done with hood up, whereas a lot have found a CAI slowed them down in the 1/4 mile due to IAT's building so high in staging lanes and as such effecting the 1/8 negatively.

I just lost interest in the idea and I am quite happy how the car drives on the full 350 setup and it looks factory plus it pulls like a freight train from 1500-8000rpm.

But get the tuned looked at and make sure all your vacuum lines are connected and tight.

Out of interest where is this carbon filter in the stock intake? I have just removed the stock filter and can't find anything else in there.

I complained about occasional Kangaroo petrol effect & I think they increased the idle speed at first service. Not sure if this was in response or another reason. The occurrence is very infrequent now. If the Steeda spring is the answer why dont Ford fir similar from new?