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ddozier

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Interesting. It would be a good option for guys running spacers on the street. Follow up when you install them.
I had them in with 15mm spacers at Atlanta once the 275 nt01 corded. No issues yet.

Dave
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Mustang_Lou

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If I'm reading this right you want to unseat them 3mm? That's a recipe for a mess. Once tightened they will pull the rest of the way back in.
Correct but they'd hit the back of the wheel once tightened, which should leave the studs 3 mm unseated. I'm trying to avoid cutting the studs by tapping them back 3 mm.

Judging by the pics I see, that hub is not very thick so perhaps I'll cut instead.??
 

sigintel

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Options

$$$ ARP M14x1.5 with its threads that start at the hub/rotor interface if you have the money and for some reason need the flexibility to go back to no spacer (dunno why, just throwing that out there).

Dorman 610-530 front and stock studs rear if you are just setting up to run a square track fitment and have typical shop tools.

Details:
Note: spacers just below or at the height of the existing hub lip (centering lip) may be physically impossible to create a hub centric assembly. The stock lip is 11.76-12.5mm past rotor so spacers in the range of 8-12mm are not likely to support a hubcentric assembly.

1. For spacers 13-32 mm:
Dorman 610-530, M14x1.5, Grade 10.9, knurl 0.626"/15.90mm, 3.071" long
regular size head requires light touch on grinder to slightly clip head

2. For spacers 15-40mm:
Dorman 610-333 M14x1.5 Grade 10.9 knurl 0.625"/15.88mm 3.563"
Large truck head requires chop saw to clip head i.e. metal cutting blade on miter saw with bolt dropped in the side of a 4x4 clamped allows you to do clip 20 heads in 5 minutes. FULL diameter truck shoulder for max strength w spacers.

3. For stock stud replacement:
Dorman 610-325

4. If you have to be able to run spacers from 0-40mm:
ARP M14x1.5 that is threaded all the way to the hub.


Strength wise, ARP threads start at hub(meh), Dorman options include shoulders for increased thickness at and even past hub/rotor/spacer interface, i.e. full shoulder on 610-333. 5/8" grade 10.9 >= 1/2" thread root ARP.

Personal car has Dorman 610-333 front with 24mm custom spacers front and stock studs rear. Have also installed ARP M14 and Dorman 610-530 as fronts with no issues. Dorman 610-530 prolly best for most people as 610-333 little long. Tracking 19x11ET50 305 MPSS square.
 
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RedfireV8

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I seem to follow these every time they pop up lol

For those interested here's what I did and what all is involved. I hope this helps anyone looking at extended studs.

I went with ARP's 7703 (1/2-20) studs. I personally went these because I've run these in the past, price and because I like to zip off the lugs. To explain, I always torque them on with a torque wrench. But due to having to torque these to 149 ft/lbs on the stock (M14) lugs, my factory lugs after 3 install/removals were rounding off, bulging, getting stuck in the socket and overall getting beat up pretty bad. I also went with Gorilla's Forged Steel Lugs with the new ARP's. It's nice to be able to torque these down to 100 ft/lbs just like my previous Mustangs and the lugs not take such a beating.

Having the right tools made this job smooth and easy. There were 3 studs that the ball joint tool kept slipping on that I had to "tap" out with the mini-sledge. Being that the car was so new, those 3 studs took little effort to tap out.

32478386891_57a11bc9f8_c.jpg


32560719726_c917824dc3_c.jpg


31789198543_a0d55b68a3_c.jpg


On the rears, you do have to trim the head so it does not interfere with this lip behind the hub..(I'm not sure what this part is called).

32478385341_67b29db859_c.jpg


31789197363_7129585ce0_c.jpg


32560718936_4a78900907_c.jpg


You do not have to remove the hub for the rear. This spot was the only place I could get both the factory stud out and ARP stud in. It's like a small cavern that they could easily slide in and out of.

32478386211_a08066f39e_c.jpg
 

Competition Orange

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I seem to follow these every time they pop up lol

For those interested here's what I did and what all is involved. I hope this helps anyone looking at extended studs.

I went with ARP's 7703 (1/2-20) studs. I personally went these because I've run these in the past, price and because I like to zip off the lugs. To explain, I always torque them on with a torque wrench. But due to having to torque these to 149 ft/lbs on the stock (M14) lugs, my factory lugs after 3 install/removals were rounding off, bulging, getting stuck in the socket and overall getting beat up pretty bad. I also went with Gorilla's Forged Steel Lugs with the new ARP's. It's nice to be able to torque these down to 100 ft/lbs just like my previous Mustangs and the lugs not take such a beating.

Having the right tools made this job smooth and easy. There were 3 studs that the ball joint tool kept slipping on that I had to "tap" out with the mini-sledge. Being that the car was so new, those 3 studs took little effort to tap out.
Can you provide a link to the lugs you purchased? Gorilla 45088bc-20?

Any pics with the wheels and lugs on?
 
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RedfireV8

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OKC S550

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I seem to follow these every time they pop up lol

For those interested here's what I did and what all is involved. I hope this helps anyone looking at extended studs.

I went with ARP's 7703 (1/2-20) studs. I personally went these because I've run these in the past, price and because I like to zip off the lugs. To explain, I always torque them on with a torque wrench. But due to having to torque these to 149 ft/lbs on the stock (M14) lugs, my factory lugs after 3 install/removals were rounding off, bulging, getting stuck in the socket and overall getting beat up pretty bad. I also went with Gorilla's Forged Steel Lugs with the new ARP's. It's nice to be able to torque these down to 100 ft/lbs just like my previous Mustangs and the lugs not take such a beating.

Having the right tools made this job smooth and easy. There were 3 studs that the ball joint tool kept slipping on that I had to "tap" out with the mini-sledge. Being that the car was so new, those 3 studs took little effort to tap out.

32478386891_57a11bc9f8_c.jpg


32560719726_c917824dc3_c.jpg


31789198543_a0d55b68a3_c.jpg


On the rears, you do have to trim the head so it does not interfere with this lip behind the hub..(I'm not sure what this part is called).

32478385341_67b29db859_c.jpg


31789197363_7129585ce0_c.jpg


32560718936_4a78900907_c.jpg


You do not have to remove the hub for the rear. This spot was the only place I could get both the factory stud out and ARP stud in. It's like a small cavern that they could easily slide in and out of.

32478386211_a08066f39e_c.jpg
Just wan to confirm; you do NOT need to remove the rear hubs in order to install the extended studs?
 

higdominator

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Correct, no need to remove the rear hubs. I found a spot near the ABS sensor that they would fit. The hub had some casting flash and I tapped the stock stud gently and it self clearanced and they all came out no problem.


I highly recommend the kit from OP Mustang for many reasons. You get the studs, ready to install, lug nuts that will fit whatever wheel you have, and you get all the factory one time use hardware. Since I didn't pull the hubs I didn't use the hub hardware until recently, when I had a rear hub failure. It saved the day:)

Oh, and you always get a new tube of Loctite. I actually really appreciate that because I put that shit on everything!
 

Jeff_oddo

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Correct, no need to remove the rear hubs. I found a spot near the ABS sensor that they would fit. The hub had some casting flash and I tapped the stock stud gently and it self clearanced and they all came out no problem.


I highly recommend the kit from OP Mustang for many reasons. You get the studs, ready to install, lug nuts that will fit whatever wheel you have, and you get all the factory one time use hardware. Since I didn't pull the hubs I didn't use the hub hardware until recently, when I had a rear hub failure. It saved the day:)

Oh, and you always get a new tube of Loctite. I actually really appreciate that because I put that shit on everything!
I'm looking to purchase, I see in the pics that you cut off some material from the new studs. Did you have to do this for the ones in the rear? Also how do you install them onto the hub? Thanks
 

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You do not have to remove the hub for the rear. This spot was the only place I could get both the factory stud out and ARP stud in. It's like a small cavern that they could easily slide in and out of.

32478386211_a08066f39e_c.jpg
Sorry about bringing an old thread back to life.

Just started my ARP rear stud install and am having no luck removing the old stud when it is positioned as indicated in the picture above. Have the flat side of the stud facing the hub but it just will not slide out.

Has this technique without removing the hub worked for anyone else?
 

Plimmer

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Sorry about bringing an old thread back to life.

Just started my ARP rear stud install and am having no luck removing the old stud when it is positioned as indicated in the picture above. Have the flat side of the stud facing the hub but it just will not slide out.

Has this technique without removing the hub worked for anyone else?
You have to smack the old stud pretty hard with a really big hammer. It is a press fit in the hub
 

Plimmer

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Or you mean the stud is free from the hub, but you can’t get it past the knuckle? Maybe try another position to see which clears
 

Scott

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Or you mean the stud is free from the hub, but you can’t get it past the knuckle? Maybe try another position to see which clears
Yes, I have the first stud free but can't remove it. It is close but no cigar! I am pretty sure the location between 11 and 12 O'clock just in front of the speed sensor is the only location close to working.
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