Still have wheel hop - bmr lockout solid diff bushings

I installed Steeda's aluminum diff bushings and BMR lockout kit and still get bad wheel hop. Just want to inform people you need to do more than these two mods to get rid of the hop. Also I hear a lot of people say get stickier tires. This will stop tires from spinning but This doesn't stop the movement of suspension components which is what makes wheel hop happen. I can stick any tires on my foxbody solid axle and never get wheel hop.

Rear LCA bearings. BK055 or BK081.

I've upgraded to solid Delrin cradle bushings (BK048), the FR toe bearings, vertical links, stiffer springs, shocks and sways and get very little wheel hop with MPSS tires (stock PP size). I'm happy enough...car does what I want it to but I'm not a drag race guy. Don't know what else you've upgraded but maybe some of those could help. With the mods you listed the BK055 or BK081 would likely fix you up proper (after that there wouldn't be much else moving around suspension wise).

Unfortunately, it's not a one size fits all for the wheel hop, our Stop the Hop Kit our overall package to cure the wheel hop:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-ultimate-irs-stop-the-hop-package-2015-all-555-2129.html

Best bet is ... to work the next part in & see if it gets you one step closer to no hop.

TJ

honestly tires alone was enough to stop wheelhop for me

Different tires will help. You either need more wheel spin or dead hooking. Wheel hop is partially caused by the tires gaining and losing traction, then flexing in the suspension. On the street, I don't get wheel hop, just moderate wheel spin. At the track on street tires, I still get hop. I have almost everything done in the back minus LCA bearing and shock mounts.

You can see my modifications in my build log. If I REAAAAALLLY TRY to be a complete tardnugget, I can still get some wheel hop. Anyone who says they eliminated it entirely is lying. I made a BMR CB005 equipped car wheel hop 10 minutes after I installed it for the guy. There's no absolute cure, there are treatments. I setup my car for road course duty (and to compensate for a god awful driver) but if I do go to a drag strip, I have to basically N-drop the thing like a teenager in a Wendy's parking lot to wheel hop and it'll only happen on hard sidewall tires like the Pirelli's.

The Steeda LCA bearing I have, which is I'll admit is a royal pain to install (as would be BMR's or UPRs or whomevers), really helped but you'll want to get the Steeda shock mounts because that LCA bearing seems to cause the car to get bouncy and I found (like many others) that the Steeda shock mounts somehow stop that (eliminates bind).

These cars like a little slipparoo of the clutch to get moving so you don't shock the rear suspension and cause the tires to end up in the infinite wheel hop loop.

^Similar experience. I have Steeda lockout and alignment kit, Steeda coilovers, LCA bearings, toe link bearings, and billet rear shock mounts. It's better than it was, but you can still make it hop if you abuse it.

1: Diff bushings do not play "that" big of a factor when trying to eliminate wheel hop.

Most times I do not even recommend them. So if the gear/road noise erc. annoys you, take them out.

2: Eliminating the movement in the IRS subframe, and the RLCA Bushing are the two best areas to remove deflection when referring to wheel hop.

I usually have people do what I call "The Big 3" which is the CB005, TCA046 Vertical Links and BK081/BK055 Bearing.

If the Big 3 does not provide enough and you want more - a stickier and better rear tire, and a good shock/spring combo is the best bet to add-on.

;)

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm going to do the vertical links and the control arm bearings next. My other mustang is a 1986 gt with just about every suspension part that maximum motorsport sells and I think it handles better than my '17 gt. The road noise and gear noise doesn't bother me. I just want to be able to blow the tires loose and drift it a little without feeling like the rear tires are going to shake loose. I think I might put my Gopro back there to see whats moving the most.

On a positive note the rear steering feeling i was getting when on and off the throttle in corners is gone.

Yup, vertical links are the answer! :lol:

Eritas said:

Yup, vertical links are the answer! :lol:

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That sarcasm holds true. Vertical Links are likely one of the single most overrated IRS mods that are readily available to the masses. I've been preaching that on this very forum for years now. :cheers:

That said, they are easy, cheap and do provide a nice addition to the other key components when working at stabilizing the outer suspension/knuckle.

BMR Tech said:

That sarcasm holds true. Vertical Links are likely one of the single most overrated IRS mods that are readily available to the masses. I've been preaching that on this very forum for years now. :cheers:

That said, they are easy, cheap and do provide a nice addition to the other key components when working at stabilizing the outer suspension/knuckle.

Click to expand...

Lol, yes because you've "proven" that's what they do. :lol:

Please tell Ford how dumb they are for not "upgrading" them on their factory road race cars.

:deadhorse: no dead horse emogee :(

My vertical links gave my manhood an extra 3". Thank, God...

Eritas said:

Lol, yes because you've "proven" that's what they do. :lol:

Please tell Ford how dumb they are for not "upgrading" them on their factory road race cars.

:deadhorse: no dead horse emogee :(

Click to expand...

You have made your point more than a few times on here.

We get it. Really, we do.

That said, the aftermarket vertical links are one of the most popular pieces in the industry for the S550 IRS. You may wanna put your efforts into preventing those people from using - but that will be kind of hard on this forum. Maybe try PRI, SEMA, the newspaper or your local news channel?