Have a question? Want the correct answer?

Tune+ said:

We have camshafts for the Ecoboost. Esslinger Stage 2's. I'm building 3 engines right now and all 3 have Esslinger Stage 2's in it.

Click to expand...

I was going to ask if your esslinger builds were still on. good to hear. cant wait to hear and see these things working.
Question: How do these work differently from stock and why are they beneficial/what would make them worth getting?

TEXAS HEAT said:

Will you please enlighten me with the latest details on the Cobb Traction Control tuning with details on how the system is working so far? When will you begin offering this feature as a tuning service? Does this help with wheel hop or potentially eliminate it?

Click to expand...

So far I have tested it on one of each car that I support besides the Focus RS. It is working well on most cars but it seems with big turbo cars the way the traction control system works it is increasing boost like crazy. I have safety limits in place to cut excessive boost and excessive torque but it seems to be powering through. This is because timing is being used to reduce the power output until it gets back to slip target.

So how it works in a quick break down:

Un-driven Wheel Speed = Driven Wheel Speed = No Correction
Un-Driven Wheel Speed < Driven Wheel Speed = Correction

The difference between Un-Driven Wheel Speed and Driven Wheel Speed = Slip Percentage

You target a certain amount of slip, if it is overshooting the slip target it pulls timing. Timing is based on a table that has slip reduction amount and it's related timing to be pulled. It will keep reducing slip until it hits targets. So the more is has to reduce slip the more timing is being pulled.

Wheel hop is a hardware component that needs to be addressed, you still want slip just not a ton of it. So during slip you will have wheel hop. This is easily cured by vertical links and some good tires.

I will offer it in the future, just don't have time right now to apply it to tunes as it is very time consuming. Might be an additional cost, haven't decided yet.

Joemomma22 said:

I was going to ask if your esslinger builds were still on. good to hear. cant wait to hear and see these things working.
Question: How do these work differently from stock and why are they beneficial/what would make them worth getting?

Click to expand...

Esslinger still builds engines, I use them for some block work and camshafts. However our complete longblocks are not done by Esslinger.

The difference in stock vs the Esslinger camshafts we use in our builds is that they provide more top end power. The lobe that drives the fuel pump doesn't change. They work differently like any upgraded camshaft in any engine works. Changes to lift and duration!

EcoBoost CBE question. And this is about performance, not noise:

In my fairly extensive exposure to forced-induction cars over a period of twenty-odd years, the overwhelming consensus has always been bigger exhaust = better (less restricted) disposal of exhaust gases = better performance. (I'm sure there is a limit, but it is obviously impractical to install 5" or 6" dia. pipes on the underside of a car!)

However, recently I heard a CSR at a popular aftermarket shop suggest that anything over 2.5" or maybe 2.75" would begin to negatively impact performance. He suggested that a certain amount of back pressure is desirable [versus negligible or zero back pressure]

I have always leaned more toward the latter than the former...but this is an area where I am out of my depth. However, it does seem logical that a muffler (or two) or a pair of resonators would introduce enough back pressure to compensate for the use of 3" piping.

Adam?

Tune+ said:

The difference in stock vs the Esslinger camshafts we use in our builds is that they provide more top end power. The lobe that drives the fuel pump doesn't change. They work differently like any upgraded camshaft in any engine works. Changes to lift and duration!

Click to expand...

Would these cams be a worthwhile upgrade for stock turbo guys? Does the increase in top end power come come at the expense of low end grunt?

ronemca said:

EcoBoost CBE question. And this is about performance, not noise:

In my fairly extensive exposure to forced-induction cars over a period of twenty-odd years, the overwhelming consensus has always been bigger exhaust = better (less restricted) disposal of exhaust gases = better performance. (I'm sure there is a limit, but it is obviously impractical to install 5" or 6" dia. pipes on the underside of a car!)

However, recently I heard a CSR at a popular aftermarket shop suggest that anything over 2.5" or maybe 2.75" would begin to negatively impact performance. He suggested that a certain amount of back pressure is desirable [versus negligible or zero back pressure]

I have always leaned more toward the latter than the former...but this is an area where I am out of my depth. However, it does seem logical that a muffler (or two) or a pair of resonators would introduce enough back pressure to compensate for the use of 3" piping.

Adam?

Click to expand...

With the stock turbo you really aren't going to see a gain over anything 2.5" with the dual exit. If you did a single exit a single 3" would be fine, with a standard muffler of your choice.

I have made up to 420whp on the stock downpipe and catback. There is a good amount of flow there as most of the exhaust is AFTER the split.

I would agree with him, but it ALL depends on the turbo. Stock, nothing more than the factory catback will show you huge gains.

PamAndJim said:

Would these cams be a worthwhile upgrade for stock turbo guys? Does the increase in top end power come come at the expense of low end grunt?

Click to expand...

You will never lose the low end torque if you stick with the stock turbo. It is fairly small and will always produce desirable torque.

Yes you will see a decent increase in power in the top end, to put a number on it I would prefer to dyno test them on a stock turbo car. I'd hate to say a good 20-25hp increase without actually seeing it happen. These cars are odd, and weird things make power.

Tune+ said:

I have made the same power on stock downpipe and aftermarket downpipes. The difference is very minor and can easily be made up elsewhere. My personal car ran a 7670EFR with a stock downpipe and catback and I loved it. Easily made 420whp/425wtq on E85 on 23.5psi.

Click to expand...

If changing the DP and catback yield minimal results for the stock turbo, why is the downpipe one of the most highly recommended power mods. Everything i read is/was people saying change the DP because the cat is too restrictive. As i've told you, E85 is not an option for me in NJ. Why should/shouldnt i change the dp then?

well i have one. car runs fine and feels strong. had to remove the upr catch cans cause they were causing idle problems and throwing codes all over the place.
recently I had my plugs changed and the ones they pulled had some oil on them. reasons? solutions?

ECOBOOST
*Cold outside temp/warm car.
*WOT in third or fourth.
*Car is pulling good & strong...
*Accel curve climbs steadily until around 6K (RPM is not critical to the story, but nowhere near redline)
*Accel curve suddenly flatlines and hear a series of popping/farting noises (power falls right off)
*Staying on the throttle sees the speed dropping off and the RPM plateau'd; it's just like the rev limiter is kicking in, but it shouldn't be since the RPM is well under the threshold

Theory:
Waste gate is not able to contain boost pressure and is 'burping' exhaust gas past the flapper. Think of trying to stop a big man from forcing the cabin door open whilst you are leaning against it on the inside; he gains an inch or two...you slam it...he forces it open an inch or two again...you slam it again etc. etc.

Possible causes:
Excessive boost pressure
Weak/improperly set waste gate tension
Improperly configured rev limiter setting
Knocking/detonation as a result of lower-than-expected-octane fuel

Thoughts?

ronemca said:

ECOBOOST
*Cold outside temp/warm car.
*WOT in third or fourth.
*Car is pulling good & strong...
*Accel curve climbs steadily until around 6K (RPM is not critical to the story, but nowhere near redline)
*Accel curve suddenly flatlines and hear a series of popping/farting noises (power falls right off)
*Staying on the throttle sees the speed dropping off and the RPM plateau'd; it's just like the rev limiter is kicking in, but it shouldn't be since the RPM is well under the threshold

Theory:
Waste gate is not able to contain boost pressure and is 'burping' exhaust gas past the flapper. Think of trying to stop a big man from forcing the cabin door open whilst you are leaning against it on the inside; he gains an inch or two...you slam it...he forces it open an inch or two again...you slam it again etc. etc.

Possible causes:
Excessive boost pressure
Weak/improperly set waste gate tension
Improperly configured rev limiter setting
Knocking/detonation as a result of lower-than-expected-octane fuel

Thoughts?

Click to expand...

Have you checked your plugs at all?

No, but the car has less than 4K miles on it, so I'm thinking other (easier to fix) causes.

What is the latest scoop on the early 2015 Ecoboost Mustangs weaker than the Cleveland made? My 2015 Mustang Ecoboost was made on January 2015. I am afraid to tune it as these seem to be the ones blowing up! OR is it because tuners/modifiers were just learning at that time? Didn't a similar thing happen with the first 5.0's? I am familiar with turbo engines as I ran 1984 Monte CarloSS that I swapped a Grand National turbo V6 into. It ran near 11 flat and I ran it for years until a head gasket finally let go. I am not drag racing anymore so I just want a more responsive car that doesn't fall flat on it face after 5000 rpm. Thanks!

While driving to/from work - 30 miles one-way, I had the A/P connected and observed random knock and more alarmingly my OAR dropping from -1.00 to literally 0 by the time I got home. Should either of these be a concern? I have not kept the A/P connected and monitoring in the past.

As you can see during the 45-60 min drive to work, I didn't exceed 5.56 psi of boost, yet had a knock count of 10.
That evening, while hitting 13 psi at some point, knock is lower but OAR is almost 0. This is on 91 Octane

8borerifle said:

What is the latest scoop on the early 2015 Ecoboost Mustangs weaker than the Cleveland made? My 2015 Mustang Ecoboost was made on January 2015. I am afraid to tune it as these seem to be the ones blowing up! OR is it because tuners/modifiers were just learning at that time? Didn't a similar thing happen with the first 5.0's? I am familiar with turbo engines as I ran 1984 Monte CarloSS that I swapped a Grand National turbo V6 into. It ran near 11 flat and I ran it for years until a head gasket finally let go. I am not drag racing anymore so I just want a more responsive car that doesn't fall flat on it face after 5000 rpm. Thanks!

Click to expand...

Get the Ford Performance tune then... definitely if you still have warranty left and have not or don't want to heavily mod in the future.

Far as the boom, don't worry about it... no one knows for sure. Bunch of speculation but no evidence. This forum is known for people who take a little bit of info and present it as fact (on many different subjects). They generally don't know wtf they are taking about.

Do I need to get a "winter" tune from you? I bought your one time tune back in September and it's way colder in Dallas now. I ask this because another ecoboom happened in Dallas and the owner recommended to update tunes according to the seasons.

Wulf Titan said:

Do I need to get a "winter" tune from you? I bought your one time tune back in September and it's way colder in Dallas now. I ask this because another ecoboom happened in Dallas and the owner recommended to update tunes according to the seasons.

Click to expand...

Shouldn't have to unless you're running E85, and then maybe if the car is hard to start. If your pump gas blends fluctuate and you have no idea from one tank to the next, then consider switching to a lower boost map. I don't know how gas is in TX. Adams' single tune files are probably on the safer side of things.