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TheLion · Oct 25, 2016

Tune+ said:
This is Ecoboost Section, sorry!

To combat carbon you only have a few options:

1. Methanol injection, this will hit the backside of the valves and will break down any carbon that is already built up and keep them clean moving forward.

2. E85 conversion (we have a kit on our site) that will inject between the intake manifold and head. Unlike other kits on the market our kit goes down each intake runner instead of just one. This will keep the back of the valve clean just like it would on a normal port injection car. Running E85 keeps it even cleaner as it works as a solution to break down the deposits.

3. If either of the above are not an option, I would suggest getting a catch can kit that does not re-introduce oil vapor to the engine (open loop system). I have a complete kit coming out soon that will replace the factory breather/pcv plate and include a catch can that does no reconnect to the intake or intake manifold. This will NOT stop all carbon build up but will assist and keep it at bay a lot longer than just leaving the vehicle stock.

Do not run any carbon cleaning solution, if you get build up the only solution is a walnut blast. Something VW and BMW do around the 50-60k mark. It cleans the valves without pulling the head off and works VERY well.

I avoid gas stations like Shell, QT, and anything with heavy additives. Shell seems to be the worst.

The higher concentration of additives are supposed to clean the injectors and if you have port injection, also the intake valves.

Can you explain why we should avoid heavy additives other than their possible negative effect on the combustion process (aka inducing knock / detonation)?

I know it is reported you did testing with different station's fuel and found shell to be the worst offender, but it seems counter intuitive they would contribute to deposits unless the unintended consequence is inferior combustion. Thanks.

Skenneyjr · Oct 25, 2016

How important is an oil cooler going to be on an Ecoboost if it only sees a few hot lap track days a year, and is there an easier cheaper stopgap like the liquid/liquid coolers Ford puts on the ST and RS Ecoboost cars?
Like many on here my car is a daily and sees short commute use as well as cold cold winter driving, so whatever solution I go with needs to not hinder warm-up times in winter.
If the RS or ST liquid/liquid coolers do indeed aid in oil warm-up time, bonus!

5.0yote · Oct 25, 2016

Tune+ said:
All depends on the car and the tune, there are different compensations for boost based on charge air temp, ambient temp, and others. Your big swing, yes 3.5psi is big, might be due to something faulty in your boost control system. Small leak that get's bigger when it is warmer. You should never see 27psi as all tunes are set to cut throttle/wgdc at a certain boost level and no car I have ever tuned was at 27psi on stock turbo.

I would do a pressure test on your actuator to see when it opens and if you pressurize if it slowly looses pressure. It should be able to hold 10-15psi easily and go back to 0psi after a minute or so. If it leaks faster than that you might have an issue.

Mine is the MAP turbo you have it tuned for 25.5 PSI we have been going back and forth regarding this issue. We just finished my meth tune about 2 months ago. I assume the WG should hold up to its spring rate correct 11-14PSI? @27 PSI in my system may simply just be a boost spike, as it goes down each subsequent pull from there otherwise I assume it would continue to increase till the leak stops growing if that was the case.

Tune+ · Oct 25, 2016

2016Mustang said:
Does an aftermarket downpipe really make a difference on a stock turbo ?

I have made the same power on stock downpipe and aftermarket downpipes. The difference is very minor and can easily be made up elsewhere. My personal car ran a 7670EFR with a stock downpipe and catback and I loved it. Easily made 420whp/425wtq on E85 on 23.5psi.

jrock said:
Thanks Adam...I have a crazy question...

Can a E85 flex fuel kit be installed that can utilize a ethanol sensor that will send a signal to the ecm with the ratio of the E85 and gasoline to automatically re-calibrate for maximize performance for the amount of ethanol detected?

At this time no, but it is something that we will always be working on. There is an upgraded controller that can accept an ethanol content sensor output and make changes but for the price of the upgrade it isn't worth it in my opinion.

WhiteyDog said:
Okay you tuner and/or engine builders, I have a question about E85 fuel: There's a gas station less than 2 miles away from me that carries E85 fuel. I have not gotten a Flex Fuel tune so I can use E85 because I read and heard if you don't use the car regularly, and that E85 fuel sits in your car's fuel system, it can cause damage to the system and your internal engine components. My car is a weekend/fun car, so it sits at least 5-6 days a week and straight through December to April. This, I suppose could be for any of the Mustang's. Am I hearing/reading correct information?

In order to run straight E85 you will need one of our E85 conversion kits (link below). You can do a mix of 91/93 and E85 to make E30 (30% ethanol) but to answer your question E85 was an issue for older cars. With new cars the fuel system is very anti-corrosion. E85 won't effect the fuels system at all, I have been running it straight in my car for a long time.

I wouldn't let it sit in storage or a tank for very long however as it can lose it's potency and absorb a lot of water from condensation. If you plan on storing your car, it is best to get the tank as low as possible and run a few gallons of 93oct through it before storing.

Skenneyjr said:
How important is an oil cooler going to be on an Ecoboost if it only sees a few hot lap track days a year, and is there an easier cheaper stopgap like the liquid/liquid coolers Ford puts on the ST and RS Ecoboost cars?
Like many on here my car is a daily and sees short commute use as well as cold cold winter driving, so whatever solution I go with needs to not hinder warm-up times in winter.
If the RS or ST liquid/liquid coolers do indeed aid in oil warm-up time, bonus!

I haven't seen a reason to upgrade the oil cooler for a street car, but for someone that track days their car it makes sense to get an oil cooler as the factory engine does not have it. It never hurts to add an oil cooler to a car that sees a lot of abuse.

5.0yote said:
Mine is the MAP turbo you have it tuned for 25.5 PSI we have been going back and forth regarding this issue. We just finished my meth tune about 2 months ago. I assume the WG should hold up to its spring rate correct 11-14PSI? @27 PSI in my system may simply just be a boost spike, as it goes down each subsequent pull from there otherwise I assume it would continue to increase till the leak stops growing if that was the case.

Well we discussed this pretty in depth via email, I won't have a different answer here. Seems like you have a leak somewhere, as it warms up it gets worse.

svoman · Oct 25, 2016

Tune+ said:
I have made the same power on stock downpipe and aftermarket downpipes. The difference is very minor and can easily be made up elsewhere. My personal car ran a 7670EFR with a stock downpipe and catback and I loved it. Easily made 420whp/425wtq on E85 on 23.5psi.

The stock downpipe will work?

Tune+ · Oct 25, 2016

svoman said:
Tune+ said:

I have made the same power on stock downpipe and aftermarket downpipes. The difference is very minor and can easily be made up elsewhere. My personal car ran a 7670EFR with a stock downpipe and catback and I loved it. Easily made 420whp/425wtq on E85 on 23.5psi.

The stock downpipe will work?

Click to expand...

I modified it to work with my Full-Race turbo kit.

WhiteyDog · Oct 25, 2016

Thank you for your answer, Adam.

ElAviator72 · Oct 25, 2016

Tune+ said:
The cam gear doesn't drive the fuel pump, there is a 4-part lobe system on the backside of the cam (not timing chain side) that lives the bucket in the fuel pump housing and "strokes" the pump.

So is there a separate cam lobe on the camshaft just for fuel pump actuation? Was this part of the Mazdaspeed 3 design, or is this something Ford added themselves? No wonder no one except Ford Performance has introduced cams for this engine... :frusty:

Tune+ · Oct 25, 2016

ElAviator72 said:
So is there a separate cam lobe on the camshaft just for fuel pump actuation? Was this part of the Mazdaspeed 3 design, or is this something Ford added themselves? No wonder no one except Ford Performance has introduced cams for this engine... :frusty:

We have camshafts for the Ecoboost. Esslinger Stage 2's. I'm building 3 engines right now and all 3 have Esslinger Stage 2's in it.

5.0yote · Oct 25, 2016

Tune+ said:
I have made the same power on stock downpipe and aftermarket downpipes. The difference is very minor and can easily be made up elsewhere. My personal car ran a 7670EFR with a stock downpipe and catback and I loved it. Easily made 420whp/425wtq on E85 on 23.5psi.

At this time no, but it is something that we will always be working on. There is an upgraded controller that can accept an ethanol content sensor output and make changes but for the price of the upgrade it isn't worth it in my opinion.

In order to run straight E85 you will need one of our E85 conversion kits (link below). You can do a mix of 91/93 and E85 to make E30 (30% ethanol) but to answer your question E85 was an issue for older cars. With new cars the fuel system is very anti-corrosion. E85 won't effect the fuels system at all, I have been running it straight in my car for a long time.

I wouldn't let it sit in storage or a tank for very long however as it can lose it's potency and absorb a lot of water from condensation. If you plan on storing your car, it is best to get the tank as low as possible and run a few gallons of 93oct through it before storing.

I haven't seen a reason to upgrade the oil cooler for a street car, but for someone that track days their car it makes sense to get an oil cooler as the factory engine does not have it. It never hurts to add an oil cooler to a car that sees a lot of abuse.

Well we discussed this pretty in depth via email, I won't have a different answer here. Seems like you have a leak somewhere, as it warms up it gets worse.

Yeah I was pretty much fishing for what number is to be considered too high of a loss in PSI that would indicate to look for something. 1 to 2 PSI could be anything, temp etc, and 3 or above, then prob there is an issue. I was told by someone else 3-5 is not that big a deal, but I was deferring back to you.

TheLion · Oct 25, 2016

You never answered my question...sad face...:(

Rankor · Oct 26, 2016

TheLion said:
You never answered my question...sad face...:(

I think it was too short, try adding another 4 paragraphs.

TEXAS HEAT · Oct 26, 2016

Will you please enlighten me with the latest details on the Cobb Traction Control tuning with details on how the system is working so far? When will you begin offering this feature as a tuning service? Does this help with wheel hop or potentially eliminate it?

TheLion · Oct 26, 2016

Rankor said:
I think it was too short, try adding another 4 paragraphs.

Maybe

. 4 might not be enough, I think 5-7 would be more optimal.

SPP Keith · Oct 26, 2016

TheLion said:
Maybe . 4 might not be enough, I think 5-7 would be more optimal.

Hey, TheLion! Was it you that emailed me on the rear end swap? I cant find your email and wanted to apologize for missing it. Please resend if you have unanswered questions on it. Thanks-

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TheLion

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Skenneyjr

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5.0yote

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Tune+

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svoman

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Tune+

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WhiteyDog

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Tune+

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5.0yote

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TheLion

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Rankor

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TEXAS HEAT

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